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rjp

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  1. Maybe TP would be better 😂
  2. This was my experience as well with my Heresy 3's. After a while I felt they were a bit harsh on some material. I purchased the Loki as a possible remedy but for me it didn't work. I found I still heard the same harshness even when treble and some mids were cut, it was just at a lower level if that makes sense. My conclusion was that what I was hearing was a characteristic of the speakers, not simply an abundance of power at certain frequencies, i.e., spikes or hot spots. The Loki did help mask this by decreasing the volume at those frequencies, but the problem didn't go away, and then it lost some of what I love about the sound too. The dynamic crispness and realness gets cut at the same time. Thats a huge part of what I like about the speakers, and I didn't want to let that go, so I tended to stop using the Loki for that reason. I still love the H3's, I just have accepted that they will be great at some stuff and not great on other stuff, and I try to only play stuff they sound great with. Btw, I also found that the "tissue mod" works very well, maybe even better than the Loki. It seems impossible to believe, but if you are hearing harshness try a single Kleneex tissue hanging in front of the mid horn (maybe tweets as well). Huge difference instantly, and with less impact on dynamics. I still like the H3's best with no alterations, but this is something so easy to try and you may like it. Just one tissue, and a tiny piece of tape is all you need.
  3. I have the Loki, but I no longer use it. It seemed fun at first, but after some time I could never find a setting that I liked better than bypassed in general. I do think it's the best tone control you can buy, and an incredible bargain at 150 bucks. Just didn't seem to make things sound better to me, and I tended to want to always be tweaking it for different songs. I admire the company. Good products.
  4. As another signal processing engineer here, just chiming in to say Edgar is correct regarding the technicals. As for why CDs may sound louder, I would guess that it has to do with differences in the mastering techniques for the two media. It should in principal be possible to make them sound identical if that was the goal. CDs do have much more dynamic range, but that shouldn't make them louder, just better. (Well, at least technically) So if a CD is louder it's probably just due to the mix.
  5. Those are so beautiful! So that is some sort of veneer that you glue to the outside of the existing boxes? Where does one buy veneer? I never tried something like that but I might want to some day. Simply amazing.
  6. I have the Heresey III and the Schiit Loki bought it for exactly the reason described. I found that while it did nicely attenuate the treble and upper mids, no amount of adjustment could make harshness disappear if it was there in the recording. It would just lack treble and still be harsh. The Klipsch sound that is sometimes called harsh is not too much of any frequency, it is something else in my opinion. I still think the H3 are the best speakers I’ve ever heard, they just sometimes get a little harsh. That’s part of the deal. A piece of tissue paper over mid horn works better than EQ, but I prefer them unaltered with proper placement on floor against a wall. I no longer use the Loki.
  7. I am using a Klipsch SW-311 because it came bundled with my new HIII's. https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-SW-311-10-Inch-Subwoofer-Black/dp/B0046L8QHS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538841100&sr=8-3&keywords=klipsch+sw+311 I find it integrates well, and I love the small size and sealed design, but since I have moved my HIII's up against a wall now I find the sub is not so necessary. Sometimes it helps, but sometimes I think the bass sounds more "honest" without it. I have recently changed to driving it with an input signal derived from the speaker outputs from my power amp (VTA ST-70) and I like it better than when driving it from the preamp line level signal. (The sub itself has no speaker level inputs) Makes it a little more invisible. I find I really need to keep the crossover low (60 Hz) and the slope high (36 dB/Octave) or it colors the upper bass too much. The HIII's have such nice upper bass that I don't want to mess with it. My room has a deep null at 52 Hz, so the sub ends up filling in from 27 to 47 according to REW.
  8. That does not appear to be a HIII in the picture. The grill is too far set back compared to mine.
  9. Hey, beautiful setup! I see you are running a PAS preamp and a Dynaco ST70 based poweramp. I have the same setup with my Heresy IIIs. The PAS 3X is a very recent addition for me and I'm not sure what I think of it yet. How do you like yours? What benefit do you feel it bring to your overall sound? Would love to hear your opinions. Thanks.
  10. rjp

    New VTA ST-70

    Why do people think gain with wire is best? I mean, we're talking tube amps here. It's all about signature and coloration. The "best" is your favorite color
  11. rjp

    New VTA ST-70

    I tend to agree. Every amplifier has a characteristic sound. It seems that the question comes down to do you which sound you like better, the preamp, or the power amp? From what I'm reading it appears most of the big money is invested in preamps to get a super great sounding but very fragile signal, and then the power amp is just about making this louder and strong enough to drive speakers. So using a path into the power amp that is as transparent as possible only has value if indeed the power amp is what you want to hear.
  12. rjp

    New VTA ST-70

    Fair enough. I meant they were 100% out of the signal path. I wonder, can the additional path to ground make any difference in the sound? The attenuator Bob supplies is 100K. The VTA board itself has an input impedance of about 270K I believe. So the (full volume) input impedance at the RCA jacks with the stepped attenuator in place must be down to about 75K. The output impedance of an iPhone 6S is 3.2 Ohms, so even 75K seems huge in comparison. A higher resistance attenuator could be used to keep the input impedance up, but that would potentially introduce another more significant problem. Loss of high frequency content due to Miller effect. I assume this played into the 100K choice.
  13. rjp

    New VTA ST-70

    Technically speaking 100% correct. Zero NEED for a preamp. But preamps (good ones, I'm told) add a host of magical musical qualities and gonads (a.k.a., dynamics). I have recently been involved in extensive research and technical discussions on this matter, and though I could uncover no good technical reason for the preamp, I just bought two of them so I can find out for myself if they really make the VTA70 sound better (compared to the 21-step attenuator direct approach). I purchased a Dynaco PAS 3X from ebay and a VTA SP12 kit from tubes4hifi. I am really looking forward to building the SP12 kit! If I realized I could get the basic board for under 200 bucks I would have skipped the PAS option. Well, it will be fun to try both. I'll keep the one I like and sell the other. They will both be in super amazing condition when I'm done owning them. So...I intend to be in serious preamp mode shortly You know what's the dumbest thing? Calling a simple potentiometer or stepped attenuator a "Passive Preamp". Well, actually, that's just a misnomer. The dumbest thing is paying 800 dollars for "really good ones"
  14. rjp

    New VTA ST-70

    Ok, so the amp you have is a Bob Latino ST70. Most people call it a VTA70 (Vacuum Tube Audio) to distinguish it from the original Dynaco ST70. This is an amp I am very familiar with. The input level required for full power out is 1V rms. I bench tested mine and was able to get 38W rms per channel before I started to see clipping. This was with both channels driven into 8 Ohms at 1KHz. The input voltage required to achieve this was just slightly over 1V rms (i.e., 1.4V peak). Any modern input source can easily provide the required voltage swing to get the full 35W rms out of the VTA70 without an active preamp. It could be that the Kenwood is boosting the input signal more so that the overall output is louder but the peaks are clipped. SO it could appear louder but there might be distortion present. Just a guess. Are you saying that if you set the volume to full on both amps your VTA70 is still not as loud as your Kenwood?
  15. rjp

    New VTA ST-70

    Emile, Are you running an original ST70 or a modified version? Where is the attenuator you mention installed? BOTH a stepped attenuator and ANY volume pot of ANY taper will be effectively out of the circuit at full clockwise rotation (well, unless it's wired up wrong). What is you input source?
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