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rjp

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  1. I agree technically of course with replacing all the caps, diodes, and out of spec resistors. The amp should not be used or even turned on as is. But at the same time, it is such a shame to ruin the authenticity. This amp is a real thing of beauty as is. Just looking at the effort put into hand wiring and routing of component leads and the way the labels are all aligned tells of a time of great pride in craftsmanship. It is a work of art. I would hate to see those beautiful vintage components replaced with modern equivalents. Just look at how the few blue metal film resistors and pink heat shrink stand out like sore thumbs. It is fairly easy to restore this amp electrically to like new condition for very little money, and I'm sure it will sound amazing, but it is almost certainly worth more in its current state. It's a tough decision for sure. If you do choose to restore it I would look for replacement parts that resemble the vintage components, i.e., use high quality new carbon resistors, and axial capacitors where available. The cans could be re-stuffed with new electrolytics, etc. Great find and best of luck!
  2. Interesting... I guess the treble electrons don't like the big fat bass electrons running next to them. They can be bullies! 😁
  3. I haven't used that one in particular, but I have used a few others with great success. I remember specifically looking for one that could produce multiple tones for intermodulation testing. I ended up using REW software on my PC because it is amazingly powerfull both as a tone generator and as an analyzer and it is also free, but I did also find a multi-tone ios app. It is wonderful that we can get apps like this that produce reliable test tones for free. Years ago you would need some expensive equipment to do this.
  4. You can build a really nice one with two high quality DPDT toggle switches and some banana jacks.
  5. No, bi-wiring is useless. You'd be better off buying one good pair of speaker cables. It is still using the crossover in the speaker. It is merely two pairs of cables in parallel from the amp to each speaker.
  6. That works. Glad you didn't go with sideways. The horns are meant to be horizontal.
  7. Maybe TP would be better 😂
  8. This was my experience as well with my Heresy 3's. After a while I felt they were a bit harsh on some material. I purchased the Loki as a possible remedy but for me it didn't work. I found I still heard the same harshness even when treble and some mids were cut, it was just at a lower level if that makes sense. My conclusion was that what I was hearing was a characteristic of the speakers, not simply an abundance of power at certain frequencies, i.e., spikes or hot spots. The Loki did help mask this by decreasing the volume at those frequencies, but the problem didn't go away, and then it lost some of what I love about the sound too. The dynamic crispness and realness gets cut at the same time. Thats a huge part of what I like about the speakers, and I didn't want to let that go, so I tended to stop using the Loki for that reason. I still love the H3's, I just have accepted that they will be great at some stuff and not great on other stuff, and I try to only play stuff they sound great with. Btw, I also found that the "tissue mod" works very well, maybe even better than the Loki. It seems impossible to believe, but if you are hearing harshness try a single Kleneex tissue hanging in front of the mid horn (maybe tweets as well). Huge difference instantly, and with less impact on dynamics. I still like the H3's best with no alterations, but this is something so easy to try and you may like it. Just one tissue, and a tiny piece of tape is all you need.
  9. I have the Loki, but I no longer use it. It seemed fun at first, but after some time I could never find a setting that I liked better than bypassed in general. I do think it's the best tone control you can buy, and an incredible bargain at 150 bucks. Just didn't seem to make things sound better to me, and I tended to want to always be tweaking it for different songs. I admire the company. Good products.
  10. As another signal processing engineer here, just chiming in to say Edgar is correct regarding the technicals. As for why CDs may sound louder, I would guess that it has to do with differences in the mastering techniques for the two media. It should in principal be possible to make them sound identical if that was the goal. CDs do have much more dynamic range, but that shouldn't make them louder, just better. (Well, at least technically) So if a CD is louder it's probably just due to the mix.
  11. Those are so beautiful! So that is some sort of veneer that you glue to the outside of the existing boxes? Where does one buy veneer? I never tried something like that but I might want to some day. Simply amazing.
  12. I have the Heresey III and the Schiit Loki bought it for exactly the reason described. I found that while it did nicely attenuate the treble and upper mids, no amount of adjustment could make harshness disappear if it was there in the recording. It would just lack treble and still be harsh. The Klipsch sound that is sometimes called harsh is not too much of any frequency, it is something else in my opinion. I still think the H3 are the best speakers I’ve ever heard, they just sometimes get a little harsh. That’s part of the deal. A piece of tissue paper over mid horn works better than EQ, but I prefer them unaltered with proper placement on floor against a wall. I no longer use the Loki.
  13. I am using a Klipsch SW-311 because it came bundled with my new HIII's. https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-SW-311-10-Inch-Subwoofer-Black/dp/B0046L8QHS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538841100&sr=8-3&keywords=klipsch+sw+311 I find it integrates well, and I love the small size and sealed design, but since I have moved my HIII's up against a wall now I find the sub is not so necessary. Sometimes it helps, but sometimes I think the bass sounds more "honest" without it. I have recently changed to driving it with an input signal derived from the speaker outputs from my power amp (VTA ST-70) and I like it better than when driving it from the preamp line level signal. (The sub itself has no speaker level inputs) Makes it a little more invisible. I find I really need to keep the crossover low (60 Hz) and the slope high (36 dB/Octave) or it colors the upper bass too much. The HIII's have such nice upper bass that I don't want to mess with it. My room has a deep null at 52 Hz, so the sub ends up filling in from 27 to 47 according to REW.
  14. That does not appear to be a HIII in the picture. The grill is too far set back compared to mine.
  15. Hey, beautiful setup! I see you are running a PAS preamp and a Dynaco ST70 based poweramp. I have the same setup with my Heresy IIIs. The PAS 3X is a very recent addition for me and I'm not sure what I think of it yet. How do you like yours? What benefit do you feel it bring to your overall sound? Would love to hear your opinions. Thanks.
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