johnellis

Moon- It really is an interesting job. In fact, I feel very fortunate to work here. I really do. As for Isabel, what's even more interesting is how some of the data is being collected. We work with such agencies as NOAA (The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration), NASA and of course the National Hurricane Center. For research, each agency has their own fleet of aircraft such as a C130 to gather data. In Isabel's case, WW II P3's, formerly known as "Sub Hunter's", are used to actually fly into the hurricane and collect this information. Not above or around the hurricane, but actually "in the hurricane"!!!. Of course now these older P3's are called "hurricane hunters". Under normal circumstances, one can usually hitch a ride on one of the research planes and travel to some fairly exotic and remote places. But Isabel is definately a ride I wouldn't want to be on!!!

Hey Moon- I work for the National Center For Atmospheric Research in Boulder, Colorado. http://www.ucar.edu You should check it out. Alot of interesting information. Oh, and to answer your second question, I'm an Engineer. John

If you guys are interested, our supercomputers are monitoring Isabel as we speak. This is realtime, and, based upon current data, one can predict where it will hit. This is known as the WRF model and it is VERY accurate. Anyway, here is the link.... http://rain.mmm.ucar.edu/mm5 Once there.... - click on the down arrow under "Model Selection:" and select "120 10km Hurr WRF", then click "scaled" - Next, click on the down arrow under "Forecast hour:" and select "48 h" (or anything greater) and then click on button next to "Animations". This will take you to the next screen. - Finally, once you have landed on the next screen, click on the arrow under "To loop output, select a field:" and select "precip/slp". At this point the computers will show you the realtime animated tracking data. This is exactly the same information that we are forwarding to the National Hurricane Center. It's pretty cool!!

Jim- You will have problems doing this. Mounting the K55 on top that is. The Cornwall II crossover is mounted to the back of the box. This also serves as the binding post as well. Very similar to the Chorus crossover. What you will need to do is disconnect the K57 and K79 from the internal crossover. Leave the woofer hooked up. From there you will need a type B "external" crossover for the K55 AND K77. Because of this you will need to bi-amp as well. Once again, you do NOT want to remove the internal crossover. This will be some work. That's for sure. BUT, this configuration will smoke ANY stock Cornwall. No question about it. For an even BETTER sound, do not use the K55's. Use some Altec 802's, 806's or 902's. They are superior BY FAR!!!

Hi Tony- The 601 horns may not work for you. I have them as well. I had to purchase an adapter in order to mount the K-55 to the horn. As you know, the K-55 is threaded and screws on the 600. The 601 requires bolting the driver to the horn. A driver such as a K-57. I ended up mounting the K55 and 601 on top of the Cornwall because the length of the adapter extended the horn length beyond the dept of the cabinet. As a result, the back panel would not seal. Anyway, just thought I'd throw this out and possibly save you some trouble. Oh, and yes, I do have extra K-55's that I'm not using. K77's and type B networks as well. Unfortunatley they're in storage at the moment. But, I should have them out fairly soon if you're interested. John

Check these out.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3036761417&category=3284

Marvel- Obviously you did not read between the lines as far as my post is concerned. I wasn't referring to religion. I was referring to the hypocrisy of it all. I could have easily used Bill and Hillary, Jesse Jackson or any other world class hypocrite as an example. Jimmy Swaggart just happened to come to mind. I was also referring to the "holier than thou" attitude so to speak. Another reason for using Swaggart as an example. I would bet there's not a person on this BB who hasn't copied or reproduced something sometime somewhere during their lifetime. That being the case, let's use you as an example. Obviously you play guitar. You "reproduce" music. Is it "strictly" your own music? Probably not. Have you EVER played a song which was not written by yourself??? I suspect you probably have. Did you send this artist a royalty check for "reproducing" his or her music??? I suspect not. Did you ask the artist's permission to "reproduce" his or music?? Again, I suspect you did not. As a result, by definition, you were "stealing". Taking and "reproducing" something that did not belong to you. Correct? Oh, of course, that's different. But how is it different?? Unauthorized "reproduction" is still "unauthorized". Therefore, by definition, you are in fact "stealing" as well. Anyway, I'm not trying to hammer you. I'm just trying to point out that none of us are innocent. In the words of the late HWL Poonja: A person who attempts to influence others with his own personal beliefs, his own morals, is not teacher. He is a butcher,

John- Let me "rephrase" my offer of "copying" you a CD. I will "allow" you to "borrow" my "backup copy". But, I do have one request. You must return it when you are finished using it. Or when your children are finished using it. Or your children's children. Or your children's, children's children. But, please remember, this is a "borrowed", "backup" copy only. The same as when people record LP's to tape. Anyway, with any luck, this disclaimer of NOT "copying and distributing" media across the internet or Klipsch BB will pacify the Jimmy Swaggart's of the group.

Quadraphenia - The Who

John- Because this CD is virtually out of print, I will be happy to make you a copy and send it to you. Afterall, the recording studio here in Boulder was kind enough to do the same for me. The CD is currently in storage. We're in the process of moving. So if you can wait 30 days or so that would be great. It would also be good to have for future reference as well. It does so much more than generate signals. It really is a wonderful tool. Here is a link which describes the functions and contents of the CD. http://www.interstudio.co.uk/sndchk.htm Anyway, shoot me an email with your address and I'll send it to you as soon as I can. John P.S. Yes, you can still buy it. But, it will cost you. The cheapest I have seen it is $39.99. I've also seen it as high as $129.99. Do a google search. "Sound Check Alan Parsons". You'll see what I mean.

John- I have tried different ones. Most of them have been fairly good. But, a local recording studio here in Boulder turned me on to "Sound Check" by Alan Parsons. By FAR the best I've seen. Or rather heard!! John

Actually, there are some VERY good Dynaco SS amps. I have a 400, and I love it!! The 150 is in the same family. Kinda a scaled down version so to speak. The 400 sounds great on high quality drivers. Terrible on cheap drivers. Then again, when comparing JBL or Altec drivers to the K55-V, one comes to understand just how NASTY the K55-V is. It's the K55's that are terrible, not the Dynaco 400's or 150's!!

P.S I almost forgot, not only will you need the correct mh, which, for a Cornawll is 2.5, but, you will also need the coil diameter in order to calculate the appropriate length of wire to wind. If I'm not mistaken, it's around 283 feet. But, I'm not exactly sure. I can't remember. If you're interested, shoot me an email and I'll give you the exact diameter of my 8 guage coils. From there it will be a piece of cake!!

The Solen inductors are great. No doubt about it. But, if you can afford it, I would definately go lower than 12 or 14 gauge. Go 8 guage if you can. it definately makes a difference. The 2.5mh 8 gauge inductors can be purchased from www.northcreekmusic.com for, last time I checked, "approximately" $121.00 each. And yes, they do sound wonderful!!! OR, you could make your own!!! Here is the calculating link.... www.lalena.com/audio/calculator/inductor/ You'll definately want to use magnet wire when winding your own. This is the same type of wire they use to wind electric motors. When winding, wrap it as tight as you can around anothor cylinder. From the factory cylinder to your cylinder that is. After the coil has been wound, wire tie it together or use a hot glue gun. But, before you permanently secure it, check it with a meter. If need be, add or remove turns in order to reach 2.5mh. Be sure to remove the cylinder that you wrapped the wire around. If you don't, this may case problems as far as the inductance is concerned. Once the coil has been wound and secured with wire ties, dip it in Glyptol. Which is a wire varnish. This will stabilize your new coil. Anyway, the wire is cheap. And, it's not that difficult to do. Toss in a few Hovland music caps and you'll have one set of KILLER crossovers!!!!

Dean- Thanks. No problems here!!

Artto- As for your BULL**** statement, it wasn't deserved. I'm only trying to be helpful. Not attacked. To each his own. I will post no more on this subject. Jim- This is a prime example of why I seldom post.

DeanG- The silver cable is far superior to what I've been using in the past. I can REALLY tell a difference. But, this is only comparing it to your average home depot cable and 10 gauage monster cable. It smokes both of them!! You may be right though. Copper may sound more natural when used between the amp and speakers. I've purchased some high end belden cable and I will A/B the pure silver verses the Belden copper. I'll let you know what I think when I do so. That said, the links I provided at least make it affordable for us to experiment. Which of course is a good thing. My application is somewhat different. Besides using Cornwall's verses RF-7's, my crossovers reside between the preamp and amps rather than between the drivers and amp. Passive tri-amping so to speak. Therefore we may have different results because of this as well. But, it's all subjective. And alot of fun too!!! P.S. Artto made a good point about treating the wire before inserting it into the tubing. Other people have suggested polishing the wire before inserting it as well. Same effect I would think. Good ideas nonetheless.

DeanG- You're very welcome. This is really good stuff. Try it. It's not expensive either. Oh, and I wouldn't worry some much about oxidation either. Case in point..... Prof. Alan J. Ardell of the Department of Materials Science and Engineering at UCLA writes, "silver doesn't oxidize at room temperature. The culprit is sulfur, which reacts with silver to form a tarnish that silver polish removes. Yes, there will be air between the teflon tubing and silver wire, but to cause serious problems a fresh and ready air supply of air is needed. Otherwise sulfidation will cease as soon as the local supply is used up. How much air flow is there likely to be between the wire and and tubing? Problems might arise from extra contact resistance of sulfidized silver in regions of contact with other conductors in the chain, but a thin layer of sulfide on the surface of silver wire will NOT cause any harm, at least to the conductivity and performance of the wire."

I'm using 99.999% pure silver 20 guage wire for everything. The jewelry suppliers sell it by the ounce. And, as you probably know, the price changes daily. As of yesterday, the current going rate was $10.05 per ounce. 1 ounce of 20 guage wire will be approximately 19.5 feet. Obviously it will be shorter if you go with 18, 16 or 14 guage. Once again, this is pure silver wire (without Teflon coating) therefore it should be handled with cotton gloves. The PTFE (Teflon) spaghetti tubing is $11.00 per 100 feet. You can easily make a pair of $1000.00 cables for pennies on the dollar!! And yes, this stuff does in fact sound wonderful!!! It's not voodoo. At least not to my ears. Anyone who is paying more than a few hundred dollars for wiring and cable is getting ripped!!!! Anyway, here is the link for the wire... http://www.hooverandstrong.com And for the Teflon tubing... http://www.mcmaster.com P.S. Use bare wires for your connections whenever possible. Otherwise go with Cardas, Kimber or WBT connectors.

I think Moon is absolutely correct. One should leave the hardware running. As least with computers anyway. I do the same with all my audio equipment. At work, we power the system down three of four times a year. When we do, we always see multiple hardware failures. Much more than normal. Be it disk, memory, I/O planars, etc. It's a very large system. A 318 node SP Complex. As a result of the number of nodes, we see the failures that occur more often as a result of the power downs. This is due to the heating, cooling and then reheating factor that Moon mentioned. I'm convinced. Oh, and the IBM CE's are convinced too!!! The same would apply to audio. I would think.

Hi Q-Man, Yes, I am definately interested. I will shoot you an email!! Hey Jim!! I'll give you a call shortly. John

Hi Q-Man! I would be VERY interested in purchasing a pair of your 288's and 805's. If of course you do decide to sell them. I too have an Altec project that I'm working on therefore I could most definately use them. Anyway, thank you in advance for your response!!! John

I just finished building a set of Cornwalls. I used 3/4" 7 ply birch plywood for the motorboard and rear panel. The tops and sides are 3/4" 7 ply oak veneer. The wood is not all that expensive. $44.95 for a 4'x8' sheet of birch veneer, $48.95 for the oak.

The Chorus I shares the same drivers as the Cornwall II. K57 mid, K79 tweeter. The Cornwall II uses a K33 woofer, the Chorus I uses a K48 which is the same woofer as used in the Pro Series KP-301. Excellent woofer. Very tight. Much tighter than the K33 although it does not have that "boom". Both are great speakers!!

Actually, this is very easy to do. I'm currently running four pairs of cornwalls off a Halfer 9130 amp. 65 watts. As far as the amp is concerned, it only "sees" one pair. I'm doing a combination of series and parallel wiring. There's some great articles on the web concerning this. Do a google search and you'll find many hits. Anyway, I'm not sure what type of speakers you are using but here is an example of series and parellel wiring. For two pairs of speakers (right channel example).... 1. run your + from the amp to the + of the first speaker. 2. from the first speaker, run your - to the + of the second speaker. 3. from the 2nd speaker, run your - back to the - on the amp. Now you have connected two speakers to the right channel. Keep in mind that you have also increased your impedance. In short, two 8 ohm speakers are now one 16 ohm speaker as far as the amp is concerned. If you ran two speakers in parallel to the right channel of the amp (+ to +, - to -), you are then decreasing your impedance. two 8 ohm speakers now become one 4 ohm. So, using a combination of series and parallel you can hook up many, many speakers while maintaining proper impedance balance as far as the amp is concerned. So, if you want to run 4 speakers off the right channel of an amp and another 4 off the left, once again, it's easy. Using the right channel and 8 ohm speakers as an example again.... 1. Wire two speakers in series. Now you @ 16 ohm 2. Wire the other two in series. 16 ohm again. 3. Wire one and two in parallel. Now you are back to 8 ohm. Do the same thing with the left channel. Now you are driving 8 speakers and the amp only see's two. By the way, there is no compromise in sound quality either. At least not to my ear. Anyway, I hope this helps. This message has been edited by johnellis on 07-30-2002 at 11:01 PM