Lbk

Sorry for delay, I have BC'S caps in the upper section, keep the Dayton 68uf in woofer lower section. When installing the caps I notice a tear in radiator which needs to be fixed while speaker is apart. So fortunately it will be a day or before I can run speaker and listen/test. Will keep you posted

Dave I'am guessing you have use it? Do you know if it is similar/same as contact rubber cement. Looks like a great product but only online and takes 4 to 7 shipping days, would like to get fixed sooner while speaker is apart. I have seen goo at home depot, semi-flexible which I think would be good. Artto do you know about it's longative?Maybe I could do goo on inside buy black rubber cement for outside.

I was doing some xover work on my chorus II and noticed a half inch tear in radiator. It's not too bad if pushed out from rear you can't even see it. I would like to patch/fix from rear only if possible. I have some ideas but would like to get other thoughts, thanks.

I'll try to get some this week, things have been kind of crazy lately. The zxpc horn's just sets on top of chorus II and is wired direct to mid output, nothing fancy.

Yeap, what don"t you like or are trying to fix?

Xovers are different from chorus I to II, not sure how much that would change things. I build a sealed cabinet using kappa c 15, k61and k79 with B&C ti for tweeter. Crossover was a chorus II I build with all new from B&C, including inductors. Went in between my chorus II's, bass was a little different on Center channel but I liked it. K61 has now been replaced with a zxpc 17 by 11 to the match horns on top of my chorus II's. Love the zxpc horns, 2 inch opening.

Recap and get a mahl from Dave a.

Actually they are about the same age, the Dayton being only slightly.older. It should be fun to hear if any difference, will find out tomorrow.

Do you think there is any advantage in the Dayton over the electroytic? I am happy with the bass and would hate to screw it up. Alot of this is over my head but I am learning,thanks.

Ok thanks! I have no way to measure but speakers sound fine so tomorrow I will change out the 6uf and 2 2uf.

Finally pull 1 xover from a chorus II. In Bob's kit the 68uf is electrolytic, the former ownet replace it with a Dayton audio 68uf. (Huge compared to the elec.). I like the bass and was wondering if the Dayton 68 uf would affect the testing if replace just the 1 6uf and the 2 2uf and keep the Dayton 68uf in the woofer section. Since the highs are in question l am thinking it should be ok.? Opinions, let me know so I can exchange the xover caps. Thanks!

When I bought my chorus II's I also bought a recap kit from Bob crites. When I opened them up there where dayton caps in xovers so I didn't rebuild them. Now I am thinking I need to rebuild with BC's kit, you guys think it's worth it? Any use for Dayton's if I do rebuild or just throw out, thanks.

Please give a review on before and after on upgrades, thanks!

From what I've read my room 11by 17 by 8 are good dimension for a system. Took me longer to set up my chorus II's then the 2 subs. I build an f20 I need to get set up later this month, get to start all over. Probably lose the DIY and run the f20 upfront as a TV stand and the b15 will go somewhere. Maybe try it behind the sofa.

From what I've read the rc3 is suppose to be a good-correct match for yours mains. Some people also used the more expensive rc7, some say it's overkill. System looks good so far, just need to find some nice surround speakers. Good luck with the hunt and enjoy.

By all means try what you want, maybe you will have a better experience than me. I didn't try bracing or stuffing inside the cabinet, didn't feel the need especially with a sub. I would rather spend/time money on a good sub or 2 (bought or diy) than bracing a chorus cabinet. In my room with chorus II did not notice a difference when I added rope caulk, open cell form, felt inside the horns so I feel it's a waste of time. Because of this I feel very little will by gained damping as op suggests. Ymmv.

I am running some zxpc 17 by 10 on top of my chorus II's wired off the mid k61. (K61 is discounted) Rebuild x overs with crites kit, crites ti, rope caulk on tweet and k61, tried open cell form in tweeter and k61. Zxpc is my best upgrade then crites tweeter ti. Except for rebuild xovers I would not waste my time on any of the others stuff. I would work on placement unless your happy with where they are. First ran the zxpc's with some ev dh1a. Sounded good but was a scratchy sounding in places on some cds. ( same as k61) As an experiment ran some clarion 5.25 car speakers on zxpc's and love it. I own chorus I's, II's and with the zxpc horns chorus III's.

Your onkyo reciever should be able to go into phantom mode where it will work without a center speaker. Search for a manual online that should help you set up reciever/speakers. You may or may like the sound but if you don't at least it will give time to find a cheap center. They come up on craigslist all the time. Where are you located? I live in doraville so must be fairly close to me.

Where are you located?

Just noticed on page 2 of this thread jwgorman has a link posted.

Look up seller zxpc on ebay.

I run a splitter off the sub out to the hafler then one channel to each sub. Had to play with the amp to get the balance right between the 2 subs. Too much power to the DIY behind the sofa and you could hear it's location. I was a little surprised that with some tuning how well I got the DIY to match the b15. Been trying to get my soundfield wide and deep, 2nd sub did help some.

I have some options now! The crown amp looks nice and may work for the b15 if I can't it's amp fix reasonably. Thanks!

The hafler can be bridged and I thought about doing that. Running both on series or parallel depend in ohms load. I did some research and a spitter for 2 active sub is recommend. So I ***-ume running a 2 channel amp would provide 2 separate amp supplies? Also found out lower level AVR's (1000 bucks and under) with 2 subs out are wired together so just like using a splitter. Only higher end AVR's have independent sub control. So splitter should be no problem. I have a low power kenwood amp I could spit off to DIY sub but not sure it has enough power. I will play with it today and let you guys know if I let the magic smoke out. Still open to any - all ideas. Wuzzer hope your not insulted, I trust you word just being cautious.

I have an old hafler amp (240watts per channel) that is running my avr sub out to a revel b15, works good. The amp on the revel started to sound like it had a bad connection so I took it out. I visually checked it but did not see/smell any problems, plan on reflowing the boards and then go from there. The other sub is diy sealed 18 inch seismic audioI I build on the cheap. It's behind the sofa and adds a little bump to rump. I would like to run both off the hafler but don't want to burn anything up. I could do without the diy sub if I had to. My fear is running the hafler off 1 sub out to both channels could create some kind loop-power issue and blow something up. New avr would be nice but not going to happen right now.