Airpirate CVG

I have Rf3's as far as biwiring goes I think it a matter of personal feeling rather than actually being able to here minute frequency differences. That's just my opinion I've spent my life around jet engines. Yes I biwired my rf's just to see.. The cost wasn't much. On the up side the connection has got to be better than using those crappy jumpers that Klipsch supplies with the speakers. Gee you'd think a premier speaker MFG like Klipsch wouldn't cut corners?? Still good products maybe I am picky.

Thanks for the tips. I am still a little dissapointed with the RF3's bass performance at least with 2 channel. It really thunders in HT. I was raised on JBL L100 Studio Series that needed no sub those things would break windows on their own. The Rf's don't seem to produce the bass in 2 channel like my KG4's did either. Seems without a sub or the bass cranked all the way on the receiver my Rolling Stones and Moody Blues tunes have little bass. Bass seems a plenty only with music with very heavy bass tracks such as hip hop which I do not care to listen to. Oh well maybe I am old school.

I have a Sub with a crossover that ranges from 50Hz - 200Hz where should it be set for Dolby Digital and DTS formats? I have been told it should be set @ 50Hz at least for 2 channel audio is this also true for HT? Note Sub is hooked to the preamp Sub output and LFE is set for both mains and sub. Yamaha HT Receiver Mains: RF3 Center: KV1 Rear: RS3 Sub: JBL

Ok biwring complete. Personally having Rf3's since they first came out I don't hear any improvements. Like the Rf's really need any improvement anyway. On the other hand the connection has got to be better than the supplied jumpers. My biggest sound improvement came from when I dumped my crappy reciver for a good one, now that was like "night and day". More than likley the terminals are really ment for biamplification thus bypassing the internal crossover in speakers. I don't now anyone who has done that probably due to cash flow knowledge or whatever. That being said maybe it's easier to call the speakers terminals biwire rather than biamp. Biwiring the poormans biamplification? Anyway the cost was little. As it stands I will leave things biwired as at the least it has not shown any negative effects.

The full change over has not happened yet but, it's going to be pretty much the same group of jokers nation wide. Why don't they make the airport police take charge of security rather than spending all their time issuing parking and speeding tickets? This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 09-15-2002 at 12:54 PM

Tblasing, not sure about security @ CVG. Can't figure how taking the same security people and making them federal employees would help anything?? I am in N. Ky. Didn't know that Sporty offered "special classes". LOL! This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 09-14-2002 at 11:01 AM

I have some platinum plated depleted urianium core gold tipped wire and a bridge in NY to sell any takers?? Monster Cable = Creative Marketing. Only in America can you sell copper wire in fancy "clothing" for $$$$.

Ok I have read some things on biwiring but still need clarification. For instance do you run one set of wire from the "A" speaker terminal (on amp) to the high end and another run from the "B" speaker terminal to the low end?? Or do you run both sets of wire from the "A" terminal. I really can't figure out how that would help. Since electrical signals travel at incredible speed how would this "sound better" than a standard configuration of using the supplied jumpers? Anyone ever tried to hit a light switch and jump in to bed before the light turns off???? This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 09-13-2002 at 09:15 PM

Worst case get a soldering iron and make new connections but, be sure your polarity is correct. Ich bin ein Berliner! This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 09-13-2002 at 08:56 PM

boa, yes I do have it set for LFE to both sub and main and yes it's a great feature. The Rf3's have dealt with the load quite well. I will crank the sub down, I was thinking that it should start to pick up where the mains leave off. Thanks, APCVG

Save your cash. Klipsch -Good, Harman -Good. A CD player is a CD player the beauty of digital is it DOES NOT have the same sound issues that the older systems have such as tapes and LP's. Although I do not care for the quality of Sony products (manufacture). With a CD it either sounds good or not everything else is a nice mix of "bells and whistles and good marketing". Speaking of which got a lot of CD's how about a 300 disc changer?? You'll be suprised how quick it fills up. A sub for you is over kill considering you have RP3's. Hey about another set of RP3's or Rf3's 4 speakers 2 left and 2 right can be nice! This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 09-12-2002 at 10:29 PM

This looks like a new purchase. Don't mess around exchange your receiver you'll regret it if you don't. Yamaha makes a good product it must be a fluke.

Head straight over to Guitar Center or Mars I am sure you have one nearby in Dallas. Home speakers were not built to take the punishment that speakers go though in a "commercial setting". This does not mean that Pro (non studio monitors) Stage PA speakers are better in sound quality just more durable. In a DJ environment volume is what people really want. And yes in response to a previous writer sub bass seems to be a must for a DJ. Go to any top club and you'll see what I mean. Mackie, Carvin, EV etc.. This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 09-12-2002 at 10:08 PM

Sub is connected directly to a Yamaha receiver. Dual purpose for 2 channel and home theater Dolby Digital, Dolby D6.1, DTS, DTS ES. Right now the cross over is set at 100hz and the sub is "in phase" whith the Rf3's. Sub is a JBL.

What frequency should my sub cross over be set to for use with my Rf3's? Consider that my cross over ranges from 200hz to 50hz. This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 09-12-2002 at 09:53 PM

No offense but another baseless web site. Please find a real Electrical Engineer. What matters is what you can hear. You will not be able to perceive any differences in sound due to the speed at which signals travel down a wire. Kind of like trying to flip off a light switch and jump into bed before the flow of electrictity has stopped at the bulb. The speed of electricity is much faster than a human can preceive without the aid of anylitcal equiptment. Don't get me wrong I am not saying that I would use crap wire either but, you won't "hear" any difference between base Monster Cable versus $$$ per foot Monster Cable. The quality of your equipment is more important. For evedence of this marketing look at the topic "replacement midrange driver" and you'll see where Klipsch thinks their speakers are as "hard a diamonds" using the "Mohs hardness scale". No offense to Klipsch but, this scale is no good for the purpose of speakers. Read through it and you should be able to read between the (sales) lines". By the way diamonds as with most minerals are measured with the "Rockwell Scale" not "Mohs. Again no offense.. Just hard facts. This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 06-12-2002 at 09:44 PM

I agree with Kenratboy the "break in" thing is a joke. I will challenge anyone to try and prove prove this to make a difference that would be audible to the human ear (on an ociliscope). I've been told I need to spend $$$$ on wire because of something called "skin effect". I do beleive this "skin effect" occurs at above 20,000Hz (ask an engineer not a salesman or magazine writer). The human ear can not preceive ANY sound above 20,000Hz. It's all marketing speakers either sound good (to your ear) or they do not. Long story short you are good to go. Enjoy This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 06-12-2002 at 09:04 PM

Quang, I have a pair of RF-3's as well and agree they they don't seem to put out as much volume as my previous pair of Kg4's. I am running a high end Yamaha. No offense to anybody but, I am not sold on this "break in" period thing. I've had mine for 2 years. On the other hand they sound good and can still peel the paint off the wall just not quite like the old ones. As far as power goes these things are supposed to be like 98db instead of 94 like my old ones. The higher the number the less power it requires to drive the speaker Klipsch professes this on their web site. Anyone else have input on this I am curious too? This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 06-12-2002 at 08:50 PM

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Have a pair of RF-3's and bass seems to be greatly affected by the CD I am listening to. Techno such as Bjork's Army of me has plenty of bass on the other end the Beatles "White Album" does not. Maybe the RF's do not add "color" to the sound like other speakers. No bass issues with Dolby Digital movies or DTS / DTS ES. I have been told the high efficiency is one of the main culprits for loss of deep bass. I would like to have a big Klisch sub myself but, I live in an apartment - my neighbors would kill me. Speaking of which do you have the option of setting your LFE output on you receiver? Maybe set it to both so LFE goes to both sub and mains. Don't know but I switched from a Pioneer receiver to a Yamaha seems to have made a very big difference in the bass area as well. This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 06-07-2002 at 07:54 PM

To all, original woofers were Silver now Black and put in storage a couple years ago. The speakers were kept in Minneapolis MN in reasonable temperature / humidity. This leads me to my next question and I would really like a response from Klipsch on this as well as it seems I am not the only one. Does Klipsch use quality materials? Maybe I should I dump my RF-3's now before they start to fall apart? My dad has 4 JBL L100 Studio Series from 1974 that have lived in SE Asia (purchased in Thailand), Oklahoma, and MN and are in perfect shape! By the way the L100's have been played very hard! My KG4's were falling apart after 1 year. I was told Klipsch was supposed to be the "ultimate" now am not sure. Come on Klipsch give me some re-asurance the RF-3 materials have improved. K8K drivers going for $100's of dollars why so much for a speaker that seems to be (no offense) junk? This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 06-07-2002 at 08:06 PM

Had a pair of KG4's ever since they were new I had constant problems with the speakers surrounds of the woofers getting thin cracks (the rubber part the speaker moves on). The woofer surrounds always looked like they had some sort of micro fine white dust on them. The speakers would make buzzing noises when air was escaping through the cracks as these speakers have sealed enclosures. The K8K drivers on both speakers were ALL replaced at least twice because of this problem. The Kilpsch warranty was good as the store did not give me any crap they just handed me a new driver. Have a pair of RF3's and am happy (no problems). Has anyone else had this problem or were KG4'S just junk from the start? This message has been edited by Airpirate CVG on 06-02-2002 at 03:01 PM