analogman

Boy, I sure hope you don't have a job working in sales or acquisitions - especially if it involves someone else's money! craigslist is different in every community across America, ESPECIALLY the ask and counter game I live about 80 miles or so from this listing and have a hunch who it might be (don't know them personally but they've helped me in the past with some Fisher parts) I've been a member of the craigslist community here in the Bay Area for so long now (regular, as in almost daily poster) that I frequently get emails (asking questions about equipment) from total strangers who address me BY NAME At first freaked out, soon learned (and figured it out) they're regulars too and recognize my ad copy and know someone I either sold to or bought from I have been using craigslist for more than 10 years now and paid 4 years of college tuition for one child thanks to it So, don't assume anything about a game until you know a little bit about it, or make a deal no where near as good as you could have because of some self-imposed perceptions of how a particular seller, or market, works Like I said, it's different in every town and with every seller And for what it's worth, I cannot count the number of craigslisters I have emailed who were obviously oblivious to what it was they were selling Giving a great deal of time to explain to them just exactly what they had and why they were hurting themselves Often times being very valuable pieces that I couldn't afford That, or ancient systems where they'd realize 10x the dollar amounts if they would break them down (no, I do not promote cannibal flipping - just getting that pristine S8 load out of that ratty shit box grandpa built! ; - ) The "thank you!!!" "we sold on epay...." (or wherever), "and realized..................." emails that show up a month later are very rewarding "we had no idea..............." those X.Y.Zs were worth THAT much money..................................." "Thank you so much Craig for the heads up" Done the same with too low "buy it nows" with epay sellers as well - that collection of thank you notes is very rewarding as well Every seller is different every buyer is different - just be ethical about it you'll be just fine And pay attention to the people - there is NO SHAME in a low offer to kick off a negotiation - NONE Not good to be smug or arrogant when judging others based on zero first hand knowledge - not very attractive

That speaker is in a very special class with a serial number well below 1000 Serious collectors will be all over this one, especially Asian, so don't let anyone hoodoo you on this one (maximum dollars realized) The Back to Mono movement is alive and well in Japan especially I would suggest Audiogon or maybe even ePay with the clear understanding that the new owner handles freight and packing if shipping is involved I would think you would want the maximum exposure you could get to the market for one like that (again, for maximum dollars realized) That speaker could bring you some real money The folks at the Klipsch museum may even have some degree of interest in an early example like yours but I have no idea I know there are plenty of members here more than capable of paying the price, whatever it might be, but I would let the market SET it Best of luck with your sale (although I don't think you'll need any) Craig

Nope, you know what dudes? I'd call them That's what I would do 'cause we all know that ALL websites get updated every two seconds Right? You know how many times my wife would have missed shit if I hadn't called the FREE telephone number for the BIG *** brick and mortar store? And ME too? A lot Makin' moves based only on what a web page for a real store says is a losing game - ask me how I know I'm not saying they got - but I am saying I never trust ANY stock status with ANYTHING I'm trying or wanting to buy on-line IF there's a number I can call Plus you might get an even better deal Human to Human baby Just sayin'

It's a boilerplate description they use for cameras I'd call them

Forget my only one comment - I just went back and they've got 4 they show as in stock all for under $500

google adorama has some right now for about that* didn't spend a lot of time on it but there's plenty out there *sorry, they only had a single on clearance @ $459.00

As far as the "insane" descriptive, how do any of us here know that ad wasn't placed by a fellow forum member? You can see by one of those photos what possibly could very well be some other Klipsch product as well I was just in a thread in which moderators deleted several posts due to milder comments regarding asking price than "insane" And was also reminded that a seller can ask what they wish and if you don't like it then just keep your comments to yourself So, what gives with that? Craig

The guy in Sac would take $400 so fast it'd break your arm I bet Give it a try if you can afford it (look at the environment they are in - he doesn't need the money) Just a business angle/doesn't want to pack and ship/and a wife bitching about too many speakers Again, I bet He'll take $400 cash money for those speakers Try it and come back and let me know if I was right or wrong Aside from that - Best of luck with your hunt! Craig

That's not OCD - that's being fastidious and whether it's "overly" or not is a matter of opinion and it's definitely not a negative I'm the same way But now with the background story to go along with it, all the more reason I would keep the compliment all original and just do a proper repair You have to do what you have to do

Uh, yeah, that being the point of the example

I don't want to get into a debate or an argument I think my sentiments are pretty clear

You can seal them with a water based finish that will not darken or foul up the natural wood color in anyway Has to be water based as even so called "crystal clear" lacquer will darken light colored wood I've done a few pairs like that and the results were gorgeous Keeps the wood clean and protected from moisture

I've contemplated a pair of IIIs since they came out, but I just can't get over the price, even used Even though the box is still made in Hope, it's filled with chinese drivers : - ( Maybe I'm cutting off my nose to spite my face but to me it just isn't the same If I'm going to go with the modern sourced drivers why not just go with a new model Klipsch that's going to offer up much better performance? That or build something with Dayton drivers? It's just not right, especially when those drivers could still be sourced stateside To me, they're just a facsimile For the money they ask for the III series one could buy an AWFULLY nice pair of the real thing Sorry Craig

Easy fix, with or without filler Take off the back - get a sharp knife and shave off a sliver of the Birch Use this to fill the holes instead of filler (remember to orient the grain carefully) Sand them (they need it anyway) and apply a proper finish You'll never know they were there OR Just use Famowood natural filler (which is wood based and takes stain better than anything I've used) but you will see the little perfectly round fills if you go light and don't seal first Either way, not a deal breaker Especially as the woofers are so clean and the date code indicates they are '74s so the horns should be metal Craig

What's wrong with the Polks (and what model are they)? What do you mean by touching them fixes? Do they just need new surrounds? It's not typical that two speakers would go out on you at the same time. If it's not a surround issue (as in speaker surround) then you might want to check the speaker taps on your amp for too much DC If the woofers just need new surrounds I'll do them for you gratis; you pay for shipping and the edges I see some of your other posts regarding cross over issues - those are an easy fix as well. Do you know what type of caps Polk used in the problem pair?

You're comparing apples to oranges The SL-1200 Mk.II is a manual machine Same family tree but definitely different machines altogether as well as decade(s) There is also the possible variable of arm bearing condition etc etc etc between the used automatic deck and the (new) manual 1200 And you are correct, the stock signal cables were definitely improved upon Most of the Mk.II model versions (with the exception of the 1200s) were plagued with tone arm and cue issues after some time had passed, especially the automatics Technics started using a lot of plastic where metal had been before as well as upping the IC and switch counts That's why I am reluctant to get into a comparison contrast You cannot judge one by the other Example: I "built" an SL-1300, first generation, for my Son that won't beat a 1200 Mk.II but it sure comes close to matching it They all share common DNA but they ain't the same table All of the SL-1200s are in a class of their own Craig

Passives are nothing but a means to box tuning bass propagation, same as a ported or reflex enclosure with a wee bit-o-assist with LF radiation Moving a box with a passive 6"s in a room either way can change things (perceived bass) - or ANY speaker for that matter (captain obvious remark : - ) Unless two passives are manufactured very close together in a production run, I'd wager if you took two and properly measured them all else being equal, the results would come up different between the two - in a lab or an anechoic room But you'll never hear it Then there's the matter of if the passive is on the front or the rear baffle You'll hear room placement before you hear the difference between a passive with a wound repair and one without Now passives that come with a variety of mass weight or discs that could be another matter but it's also a different discussion as well as endeavor But again, even then, it's back to specific box tuning and so a manufacturer, like JBL who loved using passives for a couple of decades, could employ the same FRAME and cone size in any number of boxes and not have to make half a dozen different ones As well as allow customers (home builders) the ability to tune their own box designs

Think it best to not get into debating the merits, motives (or extolling the virtues) of the two in a forum setting I only have to say if I had a Mk.II I'd purchased new in the condition yours is in I'd have no desire for the re-issue, even the new and improved "limited edition" Allegedly, they only made 1200 of them, so if you're going to do it you better get busy! I have a hunch, they've all been bought by now though, that or you'll be paying a lot more than Technic's original suggested retail for the machine The "GR" version will probably be around for a while My Son is currently stationed in Japan and the "GR"s are everywhere - not so much for the "GAE" Good luck

Based on what I know about the new re-issue (anecdotal and first hand), you may want to just hang onto that one and spend your money on records The only thing I find outstandingly good about it is it will play 78s I think (my opinion) the Mk II was the best incarnation of the prosumer SL-1200 they made (and that covers a lot of territory) and on top of that one of the finest turntables ever made at any price, period (note I said "one of" before the flamers and the pile ons start : - ) As for Technics pro decks, that's another conversation (I love them too!) Keep it - all that glitters isn't gold Craig

Paint maybe but not stain or oil Once they're stained or oiled you'll never see the beautiful White Birch again

Use isopropyl alcohol, straight You want it damp long enough to reform if needed but you also want it to evaporate quickly

AND, don't be tempted to try and "brush" on the ink or dye - you can cause more harm than good to the texture of your cap or cone You're not painting a house : - ) Just one light pass at the time and let it dry between passes Light coats, as you also don't want anything wet getting down in the VC/former area (for active drivers obviously) Can't emphasis this enough

Use a good PVA or aliphatic resin glue ("carpenters glue") , NOT super glue to repair a wound in wood pulp (or anything paper) Super glue is not very good at all on paper (although I have seen some recently marketed as such, i.e. formulated for paper) I personally, for a number of reasons, one being bad experiences, do NOT use ANY cyanoacrylate adhesive for a paper repair or glue job, regardless of what marketing claims may say Use a good wood glue The repair, if done right, will be as strong or stronger than the original spot What you are describing is not ink, but rather dye That should be fine too but it may not cover (hide) as well with a single application If you do have to apply multiple coats GO SLOW and do NOT saturate your cap Let things dry between coats until you get the color you want Same applies for ink, as ink as well as dyes are not all created equal

Not a Klipsch item, but I am looking for an ancient Magnavox remote, model MER 061 Please PM me if you got and want to get rid of Thanks Craig

There is no need to add any mass if you don't need too Just because an "option" exists doesn't make it a good one