jstanton8

The Who- Live at Royal Albert Hall(DTS)-10 out of 10) This one is incredible, WITH John Entwhistle... AC/DC- Live Stiff Upper Lip Tour(5.1)-10 out of 10 The Cult- Live Music Without Fear(DTS)-8.5 out of 10 Pete Townsend- Music from Lifehouse (This one won some awards for sound quality, got it but haven't watched it yet...

I saw it last week. It was pretty cool for a scary movie. Did not rely on the standard blood & guts & gore routines for shock effect, & yet was still what I would consider a good horror flick. Good soundtrack. Recommended.

Doomsday sub...hahaha

I spend all my disposable income on weed and woofers....

Cool...I was worried there for a minute

Frankie are you on good terms with your neighbors? Have you given much thought to how they might react to dual AV-15s?

Hey there Dustin: Now that the AV-15 sub you recommended for me has been built & finally delivered by Acoustic Visions/Stryke, I am ready for PHASE TWO of drywall abuse. What would be your considered opinion on an enclosure for a Tumult, using a relatively "small" enclosure for which the Tumult was designed approach? Thanks, J Stanton

---------------- On 5/1/2003 1:01:04 AM formica wrote: Hey jstanton8, "I'm glad that sub is making you feel all-warm inside (or is it the vibrations..." --It's the VIBRATIONS.....vibrations=happiness these days.. "It would be great if you could get those rat-shack SPL readings... especially compared to your other sub (a KSW, right?) Do you have the test-tones? I made mine using NCH tone generator, and burnt them onto a disk. Your sub seems very similar to my intended unit but I will use a port rather than the PR for a similar effect." --My amp has it's own test tone generator, also the Behringer Ultra-Curve for the subwoofer has a "pink-noise" tone generator so I think I'm flush on the tone generators....what alignment were you going to use?? "By the way, did you ever figure out your "pro amp" bug? I noticed you are still using the plate amp... but going from 380W to 500W rms shouldn't make a huge difference (1 @ 2db) I'm also really curious about the Maelstrom... it's somewhat an unusual sub with it's very high efficiency and short group delay. " --Haven't had the time to troubleshoot the pro amp yet (the plate amp is "working" pretty well, so I'm not in a big rush to determine if the pro amp's not gonna work or not. I toyed around with the idea of the Maelstrom (ALSO) with Brian Bunge for a while. It was going to be an EBS alignment about the size of a refrigerator. Now I'm starting to think TUMULT just because my AV-15 sub was much bigger than I expected and there is no space in our living room for a sub even bigger than that at this point. TUMULT, TUMULT, TUMULT...must wait unitl Adire gets their act together for that with their backorder problem, though... "...and the tumult is a GREAT sub... but i have yet to read a detailed review which honesty says that the tumult can't be touched" --The only thing I have heard about a Tumult "in-service" is the one Brian Bunge toasted with 1600 watts worth of the Star Wars pod race scene...the jury just hasn't returned a verdict yet. Maybe jstanton could buy all three while he is at it... TUMULT, TUMULT, TUMULT....

Hey formica: Once I gets me a trusty rat shack spl meter I would be glad to give you some numbers for the AV-15 for comparison purposes. With only a miniscule 380 watt plate amp this bastard makes it difficult TO SEE STRAIGHT when listening to music. Whole damn field of vision is blurred. While watching TV simultaneously, the picture on the 'ol 32" Sony vibrates terribly. I cannot as of yet tell whether this inability to see straight is due to: a) the vibration of the TV itself by the subwoofer, or eyeball vibration and associated brain and optic nerve shaking I think it may be solely due to soundwave induced eyeball instablity. In any case, that AV-15 driver is one bad mofo.

my bad posted twice

Is there a good musical sub for under $500? I have three answers, depending on what your definition of "good" and "musical" are: a) There are no good musical subs for under $500... Have Kyle Richardson or Brian Bunge build one for you. It will be both good as well as musical... c) Do what Doug said. Concentrate on getting an unpowered (passive) sub and worry about getting a cheap amp to drive it later.

---------------- On 4/22/2003 2:19:48 PM formica wrote: jstanton8: Which Pro amp do you have? Just wondering if it's not a combination of a couple of things. It's not uncommon for pro-amps to have built in low-pass filters which may rolloff anything below 20Hz ... and if you combine that with a LFE set at a relatively low crossover point, and a slightly less sensitive line-level input on the amp... might all combine to give a pretty low output. You can try playing with the settings on your receiver, increase the x-over point, and increase the subwoofer level... see what it gives you. Also give your amps specs a look over. ---------------- Hey Formica: It's an "SCS (Sound Control Systems) Reference Amplifier". Company now defunct (got it one e-bay, aaarrghh). NO volume control whatsover. So it would HAVE to have SOME sort of pre-amp... The LFE level on the Yamaha DSP-A1 is maxed out at "0", you can only decrease it. The x-over point is fixed, set at 90 Hz as I recall. What sort of amp specs would be helpful for troubleshooting the amp? I think there may be some impedance figures on the back I can get when I get home. To see if there's an unwanted low-pass filter on the amp maybe I should feed the bastard some test tones from 30 Hz on down and see what happens. I was thinking about adding ANOTHER pre-amp to the line in addition to the one that's already on it and see what happens....

---------------- On 4/22/2003 12:27:58 PM fabulousfrankie wrote: What was the problem you were having with hooking up a pro amp? I had a problem with my Yamaha receiver driving a Samson S1000, it couldn't output enough voltage to drive the Samson. Is this what you're talking about? I still have that RCA amp if you're interested in buying it. I'd sell it for $35 shipped. ---------------- Hey Frankie: The pro amp I'm using has NO volume control, just an ON/OFF switch. So I've been using a Pioneer pre-amp with it also. Like I said above, this set-up works fine for a split signal (full-range) from the head unit, but will do nothing with the LFE output. Is it possible the voltage output from the head unit is THAT much greater than from the LFE? Wouldn't using a line amplifier (like the SVS Bass Interface or your RCA amp) in effect be like just putting ANOTHER pre-amp in-line before the amp? A pre-pre amplifier? Just how many damn pre-amps do these pro amps need, anyway? Considering I'm already using ONE pre-amp to no avail for the LFE, maybe TWO might work? I'm gonna go for one of those SVS Bass thingys soon, but they are back-ordered right now anyway. I just may have to take you up on that RCA amp doo-dad...

---------------- On 4/22/2003 12:07:45 PM Frzninvt wrote: It is probably not working off the LFE output since signal has to be present in the source for it to be able to output it. Try running it off a tape loop, hopefully your Behringer has a crossover in it. I find the LFE signal to be on the low side sometimes. ---------------- There's signal from the LFE alright because the sub work's fine when a plate amp is used. Swap it out for the pro amp and NOTHING. Funny thing is the pro amp WILL work just fine IF AND ONLY IF you send it a split (full-range) signal from the head unit. WTF? I have NO idea what the hell is going on here. I'm gonna have to ask Frankie if he'll part with his line-level amp....

---------------- On 4/22/2003 11:46:26 AM Frzninvt wrote: Man, that sub sounds like just what I am looking for? Where is the place located that built it for you? Is it a dual voice coil subwoofer?....The damn KSW-15 would only kick in when the volume level was at a certain point which was most annoying....Can you post a photo I would like to see what it looks like. ---------------- You can talk to two people, either: Kyle Richardson, at Acoustic Visions http://www.acoustic-visions.com/ OR Brian Bunge at Rutledge Design: http://www.rutledgeaudiodesign.com/main.html Either of these guys know what they are doing. As for your other questions: 1)The AV-15 WAS a DVC but I had them wire it in series for a 4 ohm load... 2)I know how to solve your KSW-15 not-turning-on-problem: don't ever turn it off. Mine's been on for over 3 YEARS now. Better yet, get rid of it (I know where you might be able to pick up some killer CV industrial bass bins...) Just kidding, I still have my KSW-15... I can get FILM pictures of it, but no digital...how do you expect me to afford a digi-cam when I have these low frequencies to contend with? Sheeeshh...

Frankie: Two of those AV-15 bastards are more than any sane, crazy, or even semi-retarded person should ever need, want, or envision. I only got half power going to mine now and for me (insane & retarded) it is ENOUGH. Where before I had low frequency "troughs and valleys" in various positions around the room, now I just have BASS. Lots of it. And it not longer hides in the corner. It does not need another similar sub stacked on top. It cares not about "nulls"...it fills the entire room and is just THERE. Just wait'll I get an SPL meter and my Behringer on the job... Hey Frankie, where can I get a good deal on a 700-1000 W subwoofer amp? Mine won't work of my LFE for some reason... Butthead: Uhhh, I don't like subwoofers no more, uhhhh, they're too LOUD and stuff...duhhhh....

I got my AV-15 sub from Acoustic Visions/Stryke Saturday and this thing is a capital M/boldfaced MONSTER both in size and performance. I do not have a rat shack SPL meter so have not calibrated it yet, and cannot give you any numbers at this point, just subjective impressions. It's huge. The guy who dropped it off the back of the delivery truck said it was "140 lbs". It felt like it. Took both of us to get it into the house. It's supposed to be a 24" cube. But it's huge...it's damn near as big as the bass section of the Klipschorn it's sitting in front of. I think the 24" dimension must be the INSIDE dimensions. Since it's made from double thickness 3/4" MDF, that could explain why it's obviously larger than 24" in its outer dimensions. It DWARFS the Klipsch KSW-15 whose place it took. You could fit 3, maybe 4 Klipsch 15" subs in that enclosure and still have room for some ice and beers. Oh yeah, it's got two 1600 gm 18" Stryke PR's, too: "Gee, it's got lotsa speakers, don't it??.." I had planned to hook it up to a 700W pro amplifier, but had to use one of the Rythmik Audio 380 watt plate amps instead, because for whatever reason my pro amp (with a pre-amp) will not drive the LFE coming out of my A/V amp. (????) But even supplied with a measly 380 watts this beast easily keeps up with my K-horns now. I now truly fear for the structural integrity of my dwelling and for those objects which rest inside it. My next impression (after "goddamm that thing's big") was you would probably have to pay a couple grand to get something like this commercially. I paid MUCH much less for this... I did not have the tools or the ability to build something like this for myself. The alternative (other than going commercial) was to have someone build it for me. For anybody who's thinking of buying a "commercial" sub, going DIY or (as in my case) having someone build one for you doubles or triples the value of your dollar. I had considered going "SVS" (bang-for-buck ratio) but would now recommend this route to anyone wanting to get their money's worth, unless you just can't wait and gotta have that sub as soon as you plop down the cash. In my case it appears it was worth the wait. Wait lemme check my math: how many Cerwin-Vega bass bins could I have got for $600 some dollars? ANSWER: NO CERWIN VEGA BASS BINS HAHAHAHA

One thing you could do is get one of the Behringer EQs and give that puppy some boost at those lower frequencies at which your're experiencing some roll-off ( e.g., for my KSW-15 I've got one of the parametric filters on my Behringer UltraCurve set at 20 Hz, + 8 dB boost, with a fairly sizeable Q value). There are some other tricks you can do with the Behringer also, like with the shelving factor... Seems to work for the KSW anyway....

Never mind the "auto-on" function. Don't use it. I leave my KSW-15 on all the time...

---------------- On 4/1/2003 11:56:16 AM JTS8 wrote: Can somebody explain the difference between these inputs. LFE in/Bypass in vs Line in I'm using a Yamaha 995 and a LF-10 with Monster interconnect ---------------- The LFE/Bypass In on the sub is for connecting to the LFE output on your amp. My Yamaha's LFE has a built-in 90 Hz crossover. It's for sending the .1 of 5.1 (DD/DTS recordings) to your subwoofer. It's "LFE in" if you're just sending the .1 to your subwoofer, and it's "bypass in" if you're sending bass intended for your mains to the subwoofer. It depends on how you have your subwoofer output on your amp set. In the case of my Yamaha amp, it has options for SW/MAINS/BOTH depending on whether you just want to send the .1, bass from the mains, or BOTH of those to your subwoofer, The "line-in" is for sending a fullrange signal to your subwoofer, in which case the sub's internal crossover is used to filter out the stuff above 90 Hz.

Good story. Guess you're not gonna be looking to upgrade your speakers for awhile either (haha). We can rest a liittle easier knowing there's ONE part of our systems that's good enough AS IS (although I would not mind a Belle center, I can live with a KLF-C7 as center with the rationale it matches my KLF-30 surrounds...)

I for one am not going to stop talking about "any" given product just because some malcontent is tired of hearing about it. Klipsch speakers do not function by themselves. They have to be connected to other name-brand "doo-dads" to produce sound. For nobody to talk about anything on this forum which is non-Klipsch makes about as much sense as a monkey pissing in a cash register. You don't want to hear about SVS or any other non-Klipsch item, then it is quite simple: do not read those posts. Do not piss and moan to us about it. e.g., Maybe I don't want to hear about your crappy interconnects...does that give me the right to tell you to remove their listing from the forum? Mind your own business, stop worrying about other peoples.

Hey guys: I bought myself a Behringer DSP-8024 UltraCurve Pro for $179 (it's a 1/3 octave equalizer with Auto EQ function) with the intention of using it on a custom sub I'm having built. Well, the Behringer unit got to me before the sub has, so I decided "What the hell, let's try it out on the KSW-15 just for grins and see what happens." I set up a quick Auto-EQ and guess what: The KSW-15 now sounds like a completely different animal. It now blends in much better with my K-horns. And no more boom-boom syndrome. Without having noted the specific frequencies of the EQ curve yet, I can tell you that the AutoEQ (performed with a $30 Behringer microphone plugged into the UltraCurve), and set for a "flat response" to pink noise (sent to the sub by the unit itself) detected two rather large valleys and two relatively smaller peaks (all below 100 HZ) which it automatically adjusted for. And I haven't even touched or turned on any of the parametric filters yet. I was advised on the Home Theater Forum that the Behringer Feedback Destroyer is actually a better choice for sub EQ, as I think you can assign ALL 31 bands of equalization to subwoofer frequencies, and it has more parametric filters. But they won't Auto-EQ so you have to know what you're doing and have an SPL meter(and I don't). As I recall my 8024 has about twelve 1/3 octave settings available under 100 Hz, and 3 parametric fillters per channel available. I would recommend some sort of sub EQ for anyone concerned with their sub's performance in a given room. You never know what frequencies are going to be accentuated by your room modes, and the problem with those is that you will not get a flat reponse and the room peaks will "drowned dout" the other subwoofer frequencies present, and voila, "boom-boom". To summarize: Sub EQ...It sure makes a difference.

Something that will keep up with K-horns under 30 Hz please! (That's why all this fuss over SVS subs...) a) Either horn-loaded or if not some kind of killer driver (like an Adire Tumult). Continuosly adjustable phase control c) Maybe an Auto-Eq to deal with room modes (maybe some parametric filters too). These units can be obtained separately at a very reasonable price (e.g. Behringer), so not having one built into the sub is not that big a deal (but having some sort of EQ one way or another is INDISPENSABLE imo to get rid of those pesky sub-killer room-modes). d) Better bang-for-buck ratio than presently available from Klipsch (this one is a no-brainer, because of course one always wants more for less, duh...)

I had the very same apprehensions as you about making my own sub. So if one's not known far and wide for their carpentry skills but would like a custom sub nonetheless, what does one do? Have someone else build it for you. Check out Acoustic Visions or Rutledge Audio. They will sell you a custom sub built to your specifications anywhere from a complete DIY kit, to anassembled/unfinished version, to completely finished. With or without an amp. Kyle Richardson at Acoustic Visions or Brian Bunge at Rutledge are both very knowledgable and competent sub builders you might talk to if seriously considering going for a custom sub but don't like the "DIY" aspect. Kyle built me a 5 c.f. sub with a single Stryke AV-15 driver, two 18" 1600gm PRs, tuned to 21 Hz. For around 500 bucks. I decided to drive it with a 700 watt pro amp. It is getting veneered this week in ckear oak to match my K-horns. You can't beat the flexibility that building a sub from ground up gives you, and it's guaranteed to blow away anything commercial at 2-4 times the cost. It's about to be shipped to me, will let you know how it turns out,,,