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Everything posted by tankhokie

  1. if you ever have done surgery on a woofer and took the dustcap off, you would see that the woofer's cone is attached to a "tube" (sorta like a half length toilet paper roll) that tube has a coil of wire wrapped around it on the outside (you can't see it from the dustcap area) and the inside of the tube/coil rides, but doesn't touch, a part of the magnet structure. if dirt or dust got in between this tube and magnet area, it will make a VERY audible scratching sound when your woofer moves. i had an old subwoofer that during a really far excursion of the cone, moved enough that the tube actually went past the magnet structure, then twisted, and upon it's return, struck the magnet structure and bent a small area of the tube (thus touching the magnet and making a horrible noise when playing) during a successful surgery, i was able to bend the tube back into shape and salvage the sub..whew. hope that helps...if you wanted more
  2. ok, i sent my layouts to tom and he has suggested a corner close to the listening position. i have been running about 10 feet away from my seating positions and the clothes flapping effect is strong, but he thinks that getting it closer to me will give me the effect of "to prevent tooth chipping, you might want to keep your mouth open so your teeth aren't touching" that i am looking for when i watch movies w/o the wife home have to do some rearranging to try it out. i think my room is probably too small to justify another one of these, just gotta make some time to try that new position out. anyone have there svs in a 2-3 ft radius of their main seating position? how is it?
  3. i think it is a ceramic and metal composite material that i am sure has low deformation properties...the stuff that my wife does as a material science engineer...stuff i find utterly boring klipsch probably holds a patent on the material...i will say i did like the black dust caps better than the all copper ones
  4. crazy, yep tom and i are talking now on what is up. in my mind (due to this thread) i have it down to another 20-39PC+ or selling out and buying 2 PB2isd's. tom is talking about moving my tube in another location, so it has me wondering if i have calibrated this thing wrong or bad placement...may come out that it was me and not the 20-39 after all. i will post my findings tomorrow after i hear from tom. i have now come to just trust tom as my experience and hearing all the good stuff about him from svs folks.
  5. copperas cove huh, i left the hood (actually killeen) in 2001...anyway, tubes - one driver per tube (3 drivers to choose from - with/without amp) pb2 plus - comes with 2 db-12 drivers and amp built in if you match 2 of the plus model tubes w/amps, i believe you have a 2-3db gain over the pb2 plus. the best thing i ever did was drop an email to tom, the "v" in svs, and tell him how you like your bass, what you listen to most, and a room description (like volume in cu ft or measurements, large openings, carpeting, etc) tom is great to work with and in my case, suggested a less expensive sub for my room than i was planning on buying. he will honestly tell you what you need and what will be overkill. with svs, you can easily overpower your other speakers if you go too beefy...okay time for me to stop being an svs salesman seriously, drop him an email and he usually will respond in a couple of hours during the day. he will settle your needs and tell you what is best for you and your wallet. good luck
  6. ahhh the 2-ultra, if i was going that mad i would go on and get the b4...my wife even asked why i didn't get the b4 or the ss tubes instead of my "ugly" black pc...she didn't see the pricing page so sad... thanks scott for the info, that is a very interesting thought. i had always imagined pushing the subs to near max levels and never considering w/more drivers you lessen the load on any single driver. i just wonder if it would be worth it to unload my cylinder, buy 2 PB2isd's or just buy another cylinder...it's close and i wonder if the other cylinder would get me over the level i want (i am almost there now) anyone have 2 PB2isd's that can comment? thanks again everyone
  7. scott, hmmm, this is a tough one. i hadn't really thought of it in terms of # of drivers. i may shoot tom a note and see what he has to say. it is just hard for me to even think about the isd line...i run my plus so hard now that i want more, and i worry that if i sold the plus and went with 2 isd's, i would be in the same position as i am now - grumbling that i haven't broken windows or cracked plaster yet. seriously, i got the impression that the idea behind the PB-2isd was creating a sub that wasn't as brutal as the PB-2+ and geared more towards the quieter, music listener. not for someone like me who expects soft tissue damage from lfe in ht. since you have 2 PB-2+'s now, can you give me an explaination of what it is like having too much headroom? i have maxed out my 20-39 just to find it's limits (as to the point the bash amp starts to hold back to prevent a clip) and it is scary, but i do wonder what more would sound like - specifically - the point where i would say, whoa, this is too much.
  8. whoa, i was the 1700 view and this is the 100th post.... yep, it's bedtime when i have nothing better to do than count posts
  9. ear, coming from firsthand experience, i agree that the ford festiva may have some problems facing off with a 72 ton M1A1 main battle tank. although a smaller/faster target than say a T72, i still could put a round through the driver's door at 3000 meters in the dark from my override. just thought i would up the numbers on this post
  10. avs fan, wooo you have me confused now (usually the job of differential equations) so you are saying that a single PB-2isd makes more sense than two 20-39PC PLUS cylinders?? i don't see how that could possibly be better...hmmm unless you are thinking of two PB-2isd's....but still, i would rather have the dB-12 driver than two of the isd drivers. (the TV-12..sigh another story) could you please expand on your thoughts? thanks again
  11. hmmm, i am not going to get dual PB-2+ (way overkill for me) but i do like the ideal of having a flat surface for stuff to be set on. the 20-39PC+ is doing great now, it is kinda silly, but it is in a small corner offset to my seats front left. while i know you aren't supposed to be able to tell where sub freqs are coming from, this sub creates such a impact that i can feel it on my left (if you can understand) i may wait till i build a seperate room for dedicated ht to buy another sub, but from what yall have said, i think 2 tubes may be the best fit for me (as i am staying away from 2 PB's) thanks guys for the response, it makes me feel better hearing from folks that have owned a cylinder, then 2, then a PB-2+
  12. i am looking for some folks with a specific experience. i am looking for folks that have a single SVS PC+ series cylinder and have: 1. bought a matching PC+ twin cylinder or 2. sold it and went PB-2+ so if you have, what are your thoughts on your upgrade? (did you notice a huge difference? or create phasing problems? or now think that your cylinder was a toy compared to the PB-2+ ??) in general i am really wondering if it will make that big of a difference or will i just end up running the 2 cylinders (or one box) half as hard for just a bit more "shake n' bake" (so not to overwhelm the k's) thanks for helping me worry over such important things
  13. it's sounds frustrating... i am just waiting till polka hits sacd - until then, nothing else matters i guess it is slow on the uptake into mainstream, thus no real standard to go follow...creating all kinds of mixes.
  14. mike, from what i hear, you don't want your center to far up or down from your mains. i creates a break in the flow (movies) and makes the voices seem off from the picture. ideally you want the center as near the screen as possible and not too far above or below the mains. imo it creates a much smoother flow during panning and puts characters voices near the picture where the are supposed to be. this is all my experience from the reference's but i think it is true in general. i had mine on a mantle for one movie and the floor the next and it was distracting how detached it sounded. hope that helps somewhat.
  15. i borrowed a 1200 lumen pj that was designed for meetings in bright rooms, it was bright, but not perfect in bright rooms. bottom line, get some 2" wide wood/faux wood blinds and some heavy attractive curtains that tie to the side when not in use. i have the blinds, but lack the curtains now (and pj) but at night, that 1200 lumen was blinding...the neighbor down the street noticed the light from my windows and thought i has a bunch of neon signs on my walls. if you get the pj and watch during the day, your gonna have to get the curtains imho. and i wouldn't go higher than a 1000 lumen.
  16. i am holding out to watch the two towers extended super mega first class platinum dvd set. i think it comes out in a couple of months. i just don't wan't to see the chopped version...and i like dts.
  17. wooo yeah, call out the screen saver, i have klipsch'ized all my backgrounds but didn't think about a saver. post a link if you can. thanks
  18. yeah, that is going to be tough to find just one, maybe look for a seller that is unloading an all around RF3-II surround, maybe they might part with a back/front center that is a RF3-II...?
  19. I love to hear these scam stories. I remember reading about the "white van" in previous threads. Good thing you were there to help your bud out of trouble. I wish I could see these speakers myself, I just find it fascinating the work some folks do just to run a scam. Good thing I bought my Clipsch set from an authorized dealer in their black van mobile showroom!!!
  20. Not to sound negative, but I have to agree, you typically shouldn't shove the ref's up against the wall, blocking the port in the rear. If you don't believe that, just whip out a SPL meter and measure the room response with that setup (the whole sound spectrum), then pull them out some from the walls and stand them up straight. Make sure all those fronts and subs are in phase and working together. Repeat your measurements. Experiment w/different distances from the wall. If you need some help w/the graphs, post 'em here and get some good feedback. My system sounded great to me, but when I did the above exercise, it uncovered all sorts of peaks/nulls, once I adjusted some levels and tried different speaker positions, the system sounds much better--rid of the annoying peaks and major nulls. You never know how bad those peaks/nulls were until they are gone. Or, you can stack them all on to of each other, laying down in one corner and they will still rock, just not as much and accurately.
  21. ---------------- On 8/22/2003 9:41:04 PM marksdad wrote: i mean have you ever really heard munitions displays? i have, and they dont sound like movie munitions ---------------- true, I don't think any sub can reproduce the concussion that you get if you are standing up in your hatch and give your gunner the command to fire the 120mm main gun on an M1A1D Abrams....but I like to get as close to that experience as I can. I am holding off on the projector until later, prices are dropping as their presence grows. I know if I wait a while, it will be just like stereo VCR's, DVD players, and other "new" electronics, prices will drop...even though I did borrow a small projector from my boss for a weekend and I did like the 93" picture that I threw up on a (get this) textured plaster wall. My advice, go with a real sub...do your research and buy the one that fits the sound/use you want. I did, ended up with the perfect match for HT and $$$ (don't go cheap on the sub, it makes the most impact on the sound and it ruins the Reference's) Best thing I added to my HT was my SVS.
  22. Marksdad, I know I shouldn't ask this as it is pointing down a road I don't need to go right now (still recovering from WAF and SVS) BUT... As far as HT goes, how do the 7's outperform the 3-II's. I only heard the 5's compared to the 3's as the 7's were outside the showroom and not hooked up (probably a good thing for the ole wallet) and I liked the sound of the 3's over the 5's, the 5's seemed to have a seperation between the horn and woofers.
  23. I have been eyeballing the RC-7 also to step up from the RC3-II. I really like the sound of the 3, but have heard so much about the 7's...but then you know what comes next.... hmmm, those RS3-II should be RS-7's to match.... might as well get these RF3-II's to match too...how much $$$ hmmm.... Then I am sitting in front of the flagship Ref series and rubbing a gaping hole where my wallet used to be....ouch not yet. I couldn't do it piece by piece
  24. How does your recv. ask you to set the delay, in milliseconds? feet/meters? I know some older ones did it in actual time delay, but usually ended up sounding like a cheap hall effect, of course this was on a cheap recv too... What recv. is it?
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