MrT58

Welp- may have spoken too soon here. Last night I checked and found that there is no output from the tweeter at all... opend it up, recheked and got 8.2 ohms on tweeter. Found a free tone generator online and set up a 5000 hz tone, got nothing- bypassed the network and went straight to tweeter- yep, its working fine. took the crossover off, brought it in, cleaned all the contacts with cleaner and brass brush- no change. made a jumper wire and went point to point, at the stage where it goes to the first 2.uF cap, it has output at the solder joint, none on the other side; hmmmm ok. Checked capacitance and it shows 2.01 uF. ???? pulled out the soldering iron, re-flowed all the soldered points, no change. Kept playing around and it just comes back to the 2.0 cap set, I have output from the tweeter if I touch the side coming from the terminal block, none on the other side of the cap. Sure seems like the cap has gone bad but it reads 2.01 uF, which should mean its working? Stumped. of course no local shops that carry caps so its parts express I guess, but that is days aways and no sure answer. Any suggestions?

The original walkman! playback power and speakers- love it.

I got to spend some time with the pair last night, and am really impressed with the sound quality. For some reason my brain says "PA speaker" when I look at that beat up pair of boxes and expects to hear "ok" sound. But then my ears tell me its wayyyy better. I got these as a side deal when I wen to demo a pair of Cornwalls. I loved them but mentioned to the seller that I felt guilt at putting them in a dusty cold/hot shop, (Texas) when he mentioned he had this pair sitting in storage a few miles away. We grabbed them and did a side by side with the Cornwalls, and despite the one dead tweeter, the pedigree was there. My room is a woodshop 30x30x15, and I had a pair of Kg4 on a shelf around 8 ft high pointed down that were good but had nowhere near the output I wanted when working. Power is/has been a Onkyo HT receiver at 110 WPC, and a NAD receiver at 50. (Despite the lower output, the NAD sound has won the job for now). I strapped the -301's to a furniture dolly so I can move them around, and with that proximity the output is much better (uh-Doy), but that sound is IMPRESSSIVE. I have a pair of Heresy 1.5's and a pair of RP8000F's in the house and these are more similar to the Heresy but with the bass I want. I heard things from familiar songs that I never knew were there. I'm going to listen them for a bit more before I figure out the next step in this game. I will of course clean them up a bit, but these are shop speakers and will get their fair share of dirt and dust, so I wont go nuts on that.

My mistake- my apologies to you!

Sarcasm noted- thanks. I'll keep my questions to myself from here on.

Opened the fuse holders and found corrosion in the springs, cleaned and sanded with 400 grit and the woofer and mid are back- tweeter is now there but low output- it ohms out at 7.6 ohms. Wiggled the polyswitch and no difference. I'll keep my questions to myself, thanks for the assist.

other speaker is sounding great- funny part is the one that sounds great has water damage and rust on box and grill, the one that sounds bad looks much better. go figure...

Hi all, I got a pair of 301-A this weekend- when I got them the tweeter had zero output at all. They have the KP-3.0B crossover I took the tweeter and woofer out when I got home and checked continuity of all the drivers and none showed open- the polyswitch showed about 1.5 ohms when I checked it so I think it is working but perhaps has been set off a few times based on what I've read here about resistance going up after they have been triggered? I then went straight to each driver from the amp at a very low volume and confirmed all of them are outputting, then put it all back together, and now- only the mid has output- no woofer or tweeter output. I'm quite sure my connections are solid off the crossover, I took a pic of it before and after and also wrote down the connections so it should be the same as it was when I opened the box. I want to test the crossover, but have never done so and wonder if the caps can be tested in the circuit or do they need to be removed before hand? From all I've read here the inductors are not going to an issue, and the resistors look fine with no sign of getting hot or scorching I checked fuses and they are fine- stumped on next step. I'm not a total idiot but frankly I've never understood crossovers so am in the dark here. Suggestions?

Best I can get, the mod to the binding posts are due to have crites crossovers according to the seller. Its a couple hour drive so not able to see in person.

looking at a set of cornwalls, SN's 168753 and 168734-- It doesnt seem to line up with the chart, the format points toward a 1990-1997 range but that does not make sense

Thanks for the tip, did some digging and found a wide range of opinions on his designs (on the internet? SHOCKING- Sorry, had to). Mind sharing which setup you have made and some pics. This may be a moot point tho- was going to try to repurpose a velodyne impact to do this, but come to find out the plate amp is dead, and there are no T/S specs available for the driver...

I know its a dead thread, but you seem to have the crossover issue dialed pretty good here. I got a cap set to update my -85 era Kg4, and they look a lot different to me. compared to what you are finding in yours. I think they are factory but kind of wondering what to do here. Using the JEM capacitor kit. IMG_2080.HEIC

Reading a lot of good about this sub, fyi did a recheck and room is 11x14, was looking a the SB-2000 series (on sale) but for the size of the room, I'm seeing that the SB-1000 is better for that size room.

Room size is about 14x16, no major space issues to speak of- the heresy's are parked next to a set or RP-8000F right now. Budget under 1K, speaker level inputs? Be nice to not have to adjust output on a powered sub to match volumes, but don't have an amp to power them at this stage. I don't know about sealed vs ported, the heresy is sealed. Open to branding

oh yeah she'll love that

Tried searching but got no hits- Need a sub and was wondering what you might suggest? Current setup is Cambridge Audio AXR100, main source is Wiim Pro Streamer.

Thanks for that, no tv hooked up, just using it for audio. but good excuse to add one to the shop.

TX-SR805 AV receiver. There are appx. 7000 plugs on the back but for the life of me I cannot find anything labeled as speaker B... For that matter I cannot find a switch on the front or remote that lets me do that either. They use these zone designators, but that does not let me switch from speaker a to b for comparison, since it does not use the same inputs.. (at least from what I can read or tell). Anyone ever deal with this before? I like the unit, but this is kind of nuts...

Will report back once I get to it- did a full day with them, in the evening I swapped over to the heresies, and the mids and highs are so much more evident. I still cannot decide which I like better!

Fair enough- just ordered a kit from Jim- I'm missing a name plate on one of the covers- anyone have a line on source(s)?

So a deal came up for a pair of KG4-WO's, got em for 340. (SN's 8514562/3) Compared to the heresy 1.5, definitely a different sound, much warmer. For some stuff it seems better other stuff the heresy wins out aside from a cap kit anything I should look to be updating?

Spoke with Jim at JEM, capacitor kit is on order now.

I'll try to get a picture up of the labels, first two digits are clearly 85. It could easily be labeled as a K-53 mid, the stamp ink was smeared badly. So even with near 40 years the original caps are ok? I'm still getting used to them, but love the sound so far- There have been some recordings where I hear stuff (clicking, popping) I haven't heard before, (stuff I know pretty well), and I don't know if it is source or speaker. I don't see it on all material so it seems to be source related, but the clarity of the speaker is quite revealing!

Morning, so it's 29 in the shop.. so indoors with questions time. 1985 Heresy set according to the cheat sheet I found here these should be 1, but "could be" 1.5? I pulled the back off and the crossover is a type E-2, tweeter is K77M, squawker appears to be labeled K55, but the print is really smudged, woofer is a K22K. all untouched, looks clean and new as day one in there (good). Based on the E-2 I think its a 1.5... I figure the caps are due for some work due to age, but then it gets murky for me. I see a number of posts about adding some resistor, changing tapping, and of course new caps, does it matter if I have a 1 or 1.5 series? I went to the Crites site for a rebuild kit and see a listing for type 2, but nothing for 1.5. 1. Are the Crites kits worth buying (3 ranges, 50, 60 and then 150 each), or is it a self source game? 2. Is there a better option? (Yeah I know loaded question... ) IMG_1126.HEIC