greg928gts

Here's a photo of the driver. Greg

I need a reasonably priced pair of tweeters for my La Scalas. I can rebuild if necessary. Thanks. Greg

I would love a pair. I'd be happy to pay for them. Greg Roberts glroberts@prexar.com Thanks.

I have a pair of 511b horns with drivers for sale. They are in great shape, a little scuffed up, but nothing a coat of paint won't cure. I need to get $250 for the pair. I would consider selling just the horns without the drivers, but I need to know if the drivers would be an exact replacement for the ones in my La Scalas. The drivers on these look just like the K-55V's, smooth rounded backs, gray color, but obviously don't have the Klipsch name on them. Can anyone tell me if these are the same driver as the K-55V? Is there more than one manufacturer that makes these exact same looking drivers as the Klipsch? I'd like to use them in my La Scalas. Greg

When the electricity comes into your house, it is split from 240 volt to 120 volt at the panel, forming two different "sides" to the panel. You'll notice that the breakers are in two rows in the panel. What happens a lot of times, is that some outlets in a room are wired to breakers on one side of the panel, and others are wired to the other side. If you can get all the equipment onto circuits with breakers on the same side of the panel, ground loop and humming problems will most likely go away. If it's too difficult where the equipment is located to get everything plugged in to the same side of the panel, you can switch the breakers in the panel so they're on the same side. Greg

Thanks JM. I did have the woofers directly wired, not through the AA crossovers. I don't remember any components inside the woofer bin. I had the woofers hooked to the 8 ohm output on the Mac, but I can't imagine that would have any affect on sound quality. Power output, yes, but not sound quality. It's disapointing that the bi-amp setup didn't work out perfectly, but I have to tell you, I might be willing to live without the perfect bass to have the kind of sound quality I'm enjoying right now! I'm just saying that, I know that eventually I'll long for the feel of the Khorns moving air in the room again. This journey has to be enjoyed along the way. Greg

So far, so good. Now I need a good coaxial cable. I really didn't think there would be that much difference between my old cd player and the separates, but I am impressed. It's a noticeable difference. The Denon seems like a really well built piece, and it looks nice too, like a serious piece of equipment. It weighs 26 lbs.! I'm going to be selling the MSB DAC though because I just bought a MSB DAC with factory full nelson, upgraded upsampling, upgraded HDCD card, and P1000 power base, used on ebay for $561. I think I did pretty good with that, as long as it works. It will be fun to hear the difference with the upgrades and compare to the original MSB DAC. If anyone is interested in the MSB DAC, let me know. Greg

I've acquired a Scott 299C with a wood case. I considered sending this to NOSValves for the works, but I know in the end it's not what I'm really heading towards for my system. I think someone else should enjoy this piece. The face is very clean with only a couple of tiny marks. The only lettering that is worn is near the power switch, but all other lettering on the faceplate is perfect. The wood case has small scratches, but nothing so deep that they wouldn't sand out easily. The screen on the wood case has come loose, but can easily be re-attached. If I were to refinish the cabinet, I would remove this screen anyway. The cabinet has big, cheesy plastic feet. The knobs on this unit are metal with brown plastic around them. Everything is there, all knobs, switches, etc... I plugged it in and it made sound. I didn't do much evaluation because I figured it's going to go to NOSValves anyway and get the "treatment". I haven't had it out of the case, so I don't know about the tubes. There are 5 tubes across the back and I can read Scott on one of them, and another looks like a replacement. The lettering on the back panel is worn quite a bit. If you're interested I can snap a couple of digital photos and send them to you. I'm taking offers. Greg

O.k., time for an update. Over the last couple of weeks, I've noticed more and more, that I really was not happy with the sound quality from this biamp setup. I was still hearing that wonderful detail in the high end, but the bass had become muddy. I could make the bass stronger of course, but I had quality issues. Midrange was good on some cd's with decent soundstage, but others sounded harsh, or sometimes boxy sounding. The bass was the real problem though, and I have to think that this is a signal quality problem, and not the amp or speakers (McIntosh Mc2205 and Khorns). Muddy, not well defined. I was fooling myself at first, thinking that this was the answer. I thought that I had both detail in the high end and strong bass, but all I was really doing was mixing the bass up louder at the crossover. The more I listed to it, the more I realized that the stronger bass was not very good sounding. Overall, this biamp setup didn't work out. What to blame? The Rane would be an easy target, but there may be issues here with the WAY the Rane crosses the frequencies. I feel that my interconnects are in good order, my cd source, was until yesterday, a Denon with burr-brown chips, a decent unit, my preamp is a McIntosh, again, a decent unit. I dunno? I changed back to just the SET amp on the Khorns and all of a sudden the midrange was back!!! In a big way. What a difference. Just like I remember, big, airy, open sound, like you can walk into the song. So here I am, lovin this new MSB DAC and Denon 1650AR that I bought, listening to a wonderful SET amp on Khorns. It's the most satisfied I've ever been with my system from 150Hz and up. But not enough punch in the low end, not quite enough volume without hearing the amp straining. Just a few watts short. I don't know what my next step will be. Maybe a better active crossover? Maybe more powerful monobloc SET amps and bi-amping through the Khorn passive crossovers or ALK's? Maybe try a really nice pair of monobloc PP's and try pushing a lot more tube power? There's so many options that it makes this really difficult. I'm glad I've got a place to talk to other like-minded people about these things. Just wish I had more time to talk to you guys about this. Greg

This song is also on a Mobile Fidelity Sound Labs (MFSL) disc called Ultradisc II Sampler. Greg

Well how about the Denon 1650 AR as a single unit? He tells me it's a 24/96. What would be a good price for a MSB Link DAC? How about the Denon? Thanks, Greg

I've got a line on a couple of local pieces; a MSB Link DAC with outboard power supply and a Denon 1650 AR player. Can I get some feedback on these? What's a good price for these? Can the MSB be upgraded to "full nelson" and if so, how much will it cost? Greg

ROFL It's amazing, when you crank it up and they come flying out, they always seem to land on their feet. Greg

Would anyone care to comment on these players? Shanling CDT 100 (tube unit that also plays HDCD) but will it play SACD? Sony SCD-1 McIntosh MCD 7000 or 7007 Jolida JD100 Sony DVP-NS999ES (does DVD and SACD) Myryad MC100 Meridian 506 This was just a quick look on ebay. The choices seem endless and this is getting really deep for me. Is there a way to put the specifications that make a real difference into a concise list? I know some of this would be subjective, but how about listing the types of transport, processor bit, etc...? This thread's really gotten away from the original question hasn't it? Greg

Randy, what do you think of this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3028832835&category=3272 Greg

You guys aren't making this easy!! I love the idea of having a tube CD player. I think there's something to be said for an all in one unit, especially for me. I don't need to get into cabling issues and such. I think buying used is a great idea, but then when you read about the new units, they seem like they'd be so much better because of all the "improvements". Like from the Ah! 99 to the Ah! 4000. Read the website and you won't want a 99. Besides, I think the asking price for the Ah! is very reasonable. I think Randy makes a good point though about going with a modded unit vs. something like the Theta, where the Theta is designed and built from scratch to be a real high-end transport and DAC. I'm confused and tired. Goodnight. Greg

Yeah, I'm begining to think that you may be right Randy. After reading the thread "Ah! Njoe Tjoebs 4000 does it for me in a big way" I'm very excited about this tube cd player. This is within my price range, and being an all in one unit makes setup and integration into my system really easy. I like the Ah! better then the Heart just based on the website and the presentation. Greg

Thanks Chris, could you please email it to me at glroberts@prexar.com. Greg

Welcome Joe. I'm relatively new to this forum and to my SET amp too. You will find a lot of thoughtful advise from some very knowledeable people on this forum. I think your Forte's will sound great with your 300b's, it's a combination that offers wonderful sound quality and fairly good volume. My SET amp only puts out about 3 wpc, and I'm finding that's not quite enough for me. I'm right in the middle of experimenting with an active electronic crossover with my SET amp on the horns of my Khorns and a McIntosh SS amp on the bass bins. There are a couple of threads here on the 2 channel board that are about bi-amping. Have fun! Greg

Wow! Just got done reading through the Ah information. Very impressive. Maybe this is the route I should go instead of looking for a DAC. Thanks for posting this information Dee. Greg

---------------- On 6/7/2003 8:27:48 AM Randy Bey wrote: This may not be what you want to hear, but reconsider seperate DACs. ---------------- On the contrary Randy, this type of information is exactly what I visit this forum for. Thanks for your input. Greg

djk - You're suggestions sound interesting. I love the idea of lowering the crossover point, I feel as though the horns aren't doing anything close to what they're capable of. What about even lower than 300hz? Is that volume dependent? I suspected the Rane would not be the best sounding unit, but it was cheap, and a good first step to see if I even wanted to consider a better unit, which I do. I'm currently using a Audio Electronic Supply SE-1 which has no adjustments or options for impedence output to the speakers. I'm sending the signal out of that amp to the input on my stock AA Khorn crossovers to supply signal to the mids and tweets. The bass goes directly from the 8 ohm tappings on my McIntosh MC2205 to the woofers. I follow what your saying as far as putting a cap on the tweet. I assume that would roll off the lower frequencies at a certain point. What happens when you send all the frequencies above 300hz to the mids without rolling off the upper frequencies? I don't know what you mean by a P-trap. I would have the physical skills necessary to build my own electronic crossover, but not the know-how as far as design or where to get components or what components would be best. I think this may be beyond what I want to tackle. But I would very much like to get a higher quality unit. Maybe the home built unit is not as complicated as I think it might be. One thing I realize is that I don't need to have the sweep controls, or probably not even separate gain controls (my McIntosh has volume knobs)for high and low output. So, this might make the design and construction much easier, and the signal path less congested. I would appreciate any guidance you can provide. Would you be interested in building one for me? This is really fun. Next steps in my system will be better crossover stuff, experiment with a DAC or two, a pair of monobloc SET amps, maybe get back into vinyl, I have a MQ107 that I haven't even tried yet, Where does it all end? Greg

I have a friend who's going to let me borrow an Audio Alchemy DDE v3.0 external Digital-to-Analog converter. Does anyone know about this particular unit? Greg

I thought I'd bring this topic back up and give you guys an update on how things are going. Just to review, I stumbled on a SET amp a couple of months ago, and really like the detailed sound through my Khorns. But not enough power for me, especially for the bass frequencies. I've been used to a McIntosh MC2205 on my Khorns for years. I surmised that bi-amping would give me the best of both of these amps. So I got a Rane active crossover and hooked up my SET amp to the horns of my Khorns, and my McIntosh MC2205 to the bass bins. I really took my time with the wiring and setup adjustments, but I realized after a few times listening to it, that I still had the bass bins up a tad too high. We're talking minor adjustments here. I worked on it some more today and listened for several hours, and I think I've got it now. I am definately still getting the wonderful detailed sound from the SET, but I also have the power of the McIntosh on the bass. When doing a bi-amp setup, the thing you have to guard against is setting the bass bins up too high. There's a tremendous amount of the sound coming from the bass bins, much more than just the low notes from kick drums and bass guitars that we normally associate with coming from the bass bins. The whole body of the midrange, vocals, guitar, drums, everything is really rounded out and defined through that bass bin. So turning it up to get more kick or extreme low end, also turns up these mid frequencies as well. It's amazing when I turn off the amp to the bass bins, how little sound is actually coming out of the mid horn and tweeter. I know that there's a very wide range of frequencies, many octaves, but in terms of the actual amount of sound that is produced with the horns, it's very little compared to what comes out of the bass bins. For this reason, I think I am giving up some of the quality, detailed sound that I was getting with JUST the SET amp in those lower mid frequencies. The crossover point is set at 400hz. From 400hz all the way down to about 150hz I would consider to be very important to the midrange, or body of the music. I think these frequencies are also very important to the overall sound quality that I was hearing with the SET amp, when I JUST had the SET on the Khorns. So, I still need more time with the bi-amp setup. I figure what I'll do is wait a couple of weeks and then switch back to just the SET to see if I get that same feeling that I got the first time I hooked it up. That feeling that I was hearing things that I had never heard before on my CD's. The feeling that there are spaces, split-second voids in the music that I was never aware of before. If that happens, then I know that the bi-amping is really not fully preserving the quality of the SET. I think either way, I would want a larger SET or a pair of Mono SET's, I can really hear it straining at higher volumes. Greg

I just bought a used KLF C-7 and it's the best sounding center I've ever heard. It's like having 3 centers stacked up on the T.V. stand. Greg