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OT: Painting our house


endover

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I gotta say Thebe's it sounds like you know what your talking about so I may have to follow your directions. I wanted a brick house but it just wasn't in the cards when it came time to buy. Based on your roller recommendation, you never mentioned renting (or buying) a good sprayer. Is spraying stain out of the question? There's at least 300 vertical firring strips around my house and brushing them is going to be a major pain!

I never expected this thread to go this far so hopefully it's helped someone out other than just me.

Thanks a bunch!

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Of course you can use rent a sprayer, but you'll want a professional model and you should shell out $30 or so for the proper tip. You will have to mask all windows, doors, shrubbery etc. and make sure no cars are parked nearby. You'll also need a calm day and a helper to follow behind you with a roller to backroll the paint. You will also use at least 25% more paint.

You can probably paint about 3 to 4 panels at a time by hand and who says you have to do it all at once. You can do the worst side first and the others when the muses move you. To prep you could skip the power wash, use a garden pump spray and clorox mixed 1 part to four parts water, wet all plants so they won't get destroyed, and spray this mixture on from the bottom to the top. Wait 5 minutes and hose off.

Don't forget this job, if done right, should rpobably last a decade. With construction slow, I'd also consider getting some estimates but make sure they price the job with top quality stain.

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There is an easy way to get your house painted for free or almost free. Give a karate lesson to an early teen male who lives with his mom and is new to the area. Show him the up and down movement, breath in through the nose out through the mouth. Concentrate on breathing, should be good given the paint fumes. It should take the kid about a week weather permitting. The one downside is you will need to enter the teen into a tourny and have to slink out as he gets his butt kicked inthe first round by that evil snake Dojo.

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I gotta say Thebe's it sounds like you know what your talking about so I may have to follow your directions.

Dude, do you know who you're talking to? DUH he knows what he's talking about! Yeah, maybe you should follow Marty's directions. Or, maybe you want a crap job. Who knows?

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Good for you. It ain't that hard and it ain't exactly rocket science.

One more terribly important piece of advice. If you have to buy a ladder or two, get a Type2, not the cheapy homeowner Type 3. The monetary difference is minor, but the consequenes could be great. Also every stinking time you move the ladder or adjust the the rungs, double check to make sure everything is ship shape before you get on it.

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Sorry, gotta disagree (to a point) with you, Master Thebes. Go with type 1A or type 1AA on the ladder deal. I'm sorry, but I see too many painters scrimping on ladders ( aluminum flimsy stuff, easy to lift and move, but shaky when up high). Yeah, these higher types are more expensive, but SOOOOO worth it! My boss just rode a 6-foot type 2 down and ripped open his elbow (resulting in a $400 trip to the ER). He immediately went out and bought an uber-stable type 1AA (a joy to use!).

LADDER TYPES DEFINED

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A little off topic...

I used Benjamin Moore paint for the first time and it went on quite smoothly and held tight to the brush without dripping all over the place. Usually do only a 20' wall at a time once a month and I'm not a Pro, but do enjoy it once in a while.

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Fini and that's why you are a capenter and not a painter. I'm talking extension ladders here. Carpenters move those about once a day or less. Painters move their extension ladders about 50 times a day. Try that with a TypeA and see how long you'll last. For things like stepladders fine, but for extensions you only need type A if you are humping heavy loads, like tiles upto a roof.

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(hi-jack mode on)

Why in the sam dickens don't the paint makers put their paint in one gallon containers that are similiar to the 5 gallon plastic containers?? You know - the ones with the smooth lip. You'd have thought that by now, someone would've gotten fed up enough with pouring paint out of your typical metal gallon container and having to wipe the paint out of the groove (not to mention all that ran down the outside of the can) and would've quit putting paint in those metal cans!!! ARGGGGHHHH!!!!

(hi-jack mode off)

Tom

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Tom,

I've never seen a real painter put a brush in a gallon container. They always pour it into another bucket (maybe a deuce...we carpenters, being a nasty lot, have fun with that term) into which they dip. Just like any trade, painters have particular ways of doing stuff. Every one I've met hates seeing a carpenter with a caulk (another fun term for wood butchers) gun. They're not so keen on us priming stuff, either. God love 'em.

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