Cory Riches Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 I want to make my own set of la scala's. I am curious about making them out of MDF or plywood. My concern with the MDF is its durability. I am afraid of the cabinets staying together and if water were to ever get in contact with them. I picked up some large home made speakers at a garage sale for $30.00. They sound good, but I have always wanted to make my own La scala's. I just sold my fourth set and I am getting some industrial splits next week. The speaker parts I will use are 15" Gauss woofer, Large Celestion horn Mids and K 77 tweeters. I will probably use the homemade cross overs too. I am also unsure how to assemble the cabinets, glue, screw, nail. I also want to build the bottoms and make a wire frame to hold the mid and tweeter. I am open to suggestions. Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Klipsch is building the new LaScalas with MDF. Definitely don't want it to get wet, but it is easy to work with and with less resonance type issues to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sootshe Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 I built mine from 3/4 inch plywwod (just like they used to build the poriginal factory models before MDF was available). I think it's easier to work with, has greater physical strength, is lighter, doesn't deteriorate as much from either getting wet or absorbing moisture from the atmosphere & any little bumps that it may receive are less likely to damage the timber. I don't think there's any other choice. Attached is a build guide which may help. Build%20Plans.txt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sootshe Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 And the cabinet plans LaScala11.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory Riches Posted September 27, 2009 Author Share Posted September 27, 2009 Thank you for responding and the information. I just joined to see if I could get any help, and I did. Thank you very much Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Good luck on your project. Just a couple of thoughts. First, the bigger concern is whether the woofer you are substituting has the correct mechanical, electrical, & acoustic properties for this specific cabinet design (the T/S parameters ...). Substituting this for a K-33 may or may not be a good idea. Second, the issue of MDF vs plywood is frequently exaggerated. What is probably more important is whether extra bracing can be installed. Do a search on the threads to get some ideas. Incidentally, the bevel on the nose piece exceeds 45 degrees. This will require some thought on how to do this in a safe fashion, or would a slight mode be wiser. Again, a search of older threads may be useful. -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory Riches Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Thank you Tom, My total cost in this project will be $30.00. I bought a set of home made speakers and I believe the drivers are good ones. I am getting the plywood for free as a friend I work for was throwing away ¾” maple plywood remnants that are mint. I Have an idea about the nose angle. I may make a fixture that will allow me to cut the angles in an upright position, and clamping the piece being cut to another piece in case the sharp edge creates a problem. I do hope the woofer sounds good. If it does not, then I will look for some K33 or K43 woofers. I an debating on the finish. I may leave the maple, or I may paint them white if I can do a good with a high finish. Once again, I thank you and the other members for your suggestions and I will keep this project progress posted. Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I Have an idea about the nose angle. I may make a fixture that will allow me to cut the angles in an upright position, and clamping the piece being cut to another piece in case the sharp edge creates a problem. The correct way IS to make a jig to hold the pieces vertical and tilt the blade to the correct angle. Attached are build notes from djk. Bruce build_instructions_djk.txt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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