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Receiver? Pre/Pro? Amps? Seperates? What's What?


JohnWB

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As for 0 dB, yes, that often corresponds to max output given a maxed input. Volume dials often go to +15 dB to allow playing something that is under-recorded at maximum output. So -17 dB down from 75W is 1.5W, and those are peaks! Doesn't take much, does it?

Is there a industry 'standard' peak input level that should give a peak rated power when the volume is set to 0 dB ?(non-Audyssey/THX mode of course)

The sub will definately make a huge difference. You might even consider dropping your amp budget in it too! LFE content on action movies is just amazing on a good sub. I am comtemplating an eventual tapped horn sub. Since everything else is horn-loaded, so why not the sub!

I'm looking at the Hsu ULS-15 for $1099 right now. I looked at the tapped subs but they didn't have any retailers near me.

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As for 0 dB, yes, that often corresponds to max output given a maxed input. Volume dials often go to +15 dB to allow playing something that is under-recorded at maximum output. So -17 dB down from 75W is 1.5W, and those are peaks! Doesn't take much, does it?

Is there a industry 'standard' peak input level that should give a peak rated power when the volume is set to 0 dB ?(non-Audyssey/THX mode of course)

The sub will definately make a huge difference. You might even consider dropping your amp budget in it too! LFE content on action movies is just amazing on a good sub. I am comtemplating an eventual tapped horn sub. Since everything else is horn-loaded, so why not the sub!

I'm looking at the Hsu ULS-15 for $1099 right now. I looked at the tapped subs but they didn't have any retailers near me.

My old Nikko amp's manual was 1V, but for some reason I had 2V in mind. I think XRL balanced (pro) connections use 10V.

As for the sub, check this out: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1189404

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Thanks for the input, do you think you could've gotten away with the Model 7075 or 7125 instead of the 200 watt 7500? Is there more flexability with having more watts than needed?

Absolutely. For the size room I have, 200W is overkill. However, I was actually downsizing from a 425W/ch QSC amp on my RF-7s, so I wanted to make sure they never wanted for power. [:P]

Depending on your speakers and the size of your room, either the 7075 or 7125 will be plenty. The 7075 should compare very favorably with typical AV receivers in the 100-150W/ch range. When Outlaw rates it at 75W/ch, you'll get every one of those watts, on every channel, at the same time. Most AV receivers are rated much more leniently.

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I do also listen to 2 channel music, i am assuming the seperate Outlaw set up, or any decent seperate set up, would make the music that much better. Is that right?


Since there are a lot of multi-channel music concert videos now, you may want your setup to be good for that, too.
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I do also listen to 2 channel music, i am assuming the seperate Outlaw set up, or any decent seperate set up, would make the music that much better. Is that right?

Yes, and the Outlaw pre/pro has a Stereo Bypass mode that bypasses all digital processing and feeds the 2 channel stereo straight to your L & R speakers. I have heard some people say they do a better job with movies than 2 channel music, but to my ears they do a great job on both. I'm sure there's better, or something more specialized for 2 channel stereo, but I doubt you'll find something that does everything as well for the money.

If you want a dedicated 2 channel rig later - use that as an excuse to get some K-horns and tube amps. [:D]

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you want to stay cheap look around for a used hk or marantz receiver 7300 7400 7500 or 7001 8001 i picked up a 7400 for 250 to use with my klf 20s and cerwin vegas ht, i cant turn it up all the way and watch a movie or play music without it being to loud for my taste i think that would more than suffice for your rf3s..ext and it wont break the bank

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