Taking Cornwall 2's Apart, Any Tricks

[ZombieWoof]

Dude that is Sooo Cool ... what a great Idea & follow thru !

one comment ====> now that I have taken apart a few pairsof vintage klipsches from different years it seems to me that the building of these heritage speakers does not follow a strict MFG'ing guide line on the building of the cabinets .

just a year apart 2 pairs of Cornwalls were had very distint differences in the way they were made. Not that they huge differences ,but different

Mike

[Pete H]

Pete, congratulations on your success.

In one of the photos it showed a huge strip of missing skin/veneer. I assume it was the side and toward the back. Was that from this manipulation?

That piece was coming off when I got them and I just peeled away what was loose as the exterior will get done over also.

[Pete H]

BTW: was the glue "scrapable" once it was heated up? (as in can you scrape the gummy residue off if you work quickly?)

If you work quickly it is, but with everything else going on, I just wanted the backs off and will tackle the glue separately. To be honest, there were one or two moments that caused a bit of stress.

[fini]

...and that's where the beer comes in... []

[Pete H]

...and that's where the beer comes in...

I actually think there was more stress in having to post the pictures if I blew the cabinet apart. I thought about using a bottle of Quervo Black as my partner in crime for this little experiment, but the silver bullet was the safer call.

[gaspr]

Nice technique there Pete! Not sure if we should call this "thinking outside the box" though...[:S]

[Pete H]

Nice technique there Pete! Not sure if we should call this "thinking outside the box" though...

Hydraulics are amazing things and I have done things with them that were way outside the box, so to speak. About 10 years ago, a friend of mine and I built a lift system to raise manufactured and modular homes off of the ground 12' for flood zone applications by modifying 2 log splitters to work with hydraulics on trucks or other specialty equipment that was on site, along with some custom steel beams, that can take 2 modular boxes that are connected on the ground, and take them up in the air as one unit in about 5 minutes, safely, and with total control and then construct the foundation while it was in the air and lower the units back down, all without a crane. I could have done this same experiment using air rescue bags, but that's for another thread. HMMMMMMMMMMMM, as I was writing that, there could be an application for decreasing interior cabinet volume while testing response with the use of those air bags.[] With all of that said, I'm probably going to build new boxes and just use the backs in the build, as the general box construction doesn't do much for me.

I've tried to do this in a couple of other threads and I'm going to try again, I would really like this Cornscala build to be a joint effort with input from the forum, that understands, I can build any cabinet configuration that I want. I'm open to ideas and thoughts from all; as these cabinets will be built in such a way as to allow changes. Here's the basic parameters for the build;

1. This will be a split box design with the CW1526C as the woofer in a ported bass cabinet.

2. I'm using all Bob's drivers and the mid and tweeter will be the PD 5VH and CT125

3. The mid driver will be mounted to a fastrac horn (350Hz)

4. Dean will be building the passive crossover based on these choices.( Checks in the mail) LMAO, no it really is!

Just some thoughts on this, I'm not sold on the front porting for this project as when listening to the stock C 2's, I liked them much better when they weren't tucked into the CORNERS and the WALLS (I'm not alone here Dean []) and I would like to build the bass cabinets with adjustable rear ports to final tune the cabinet when I'm done. I have though about building the ports in a way that will allow them to be adjusted on the fly, like an HVAC register allows you to make changes???

I really don't want these to look like anything else that has been done in the past and have considered building three separate boxes for a couple of reasons; the ability to change and experiment, the ascetics, and the thought of keeping the mid and tweeter drivers on the same vertical plane, as opposed to keeping the face of the horns aligned. (Keep in mind that most of these thoughts have no technical electronics data on my end to support, they are just thoughts).

My plans at this point will incorporate a musical sub as I don't believe, that by themselves, the 15's will do what I want without a little help, so I'm looking to do a 2.1 set up.

Last thought is that everything should be able to be adjusted on the fly regarding the angle and tilt of the individual cabinets. (Just looking at future adjustments to the placement and the room that they will be in.

This could be a blast if the right people get involved and offer up ideas and suggestions based on what they have pondered in the past, so I hope I can get this going. Come on, group build but not costing you anything but thought and time.

[gartenman]

I want to remove the backs on a pair of C 2's I have that I will be making some modifications to. As you know, the backs are glued and I would like to try and get them off without destroying them as I would like to use them when the mods are done. I don't think I can get enough heat to the glue, based on how they are put together to get it released, so I figured I would put this out there and see if there's any tricks that anyone else has used in this situation.

Are C !'s the same or diffrent as I plan similar project. Thanks!

[Pete H]

I don't own a pair of C 1's but my understanding is that they have removable backs on them and it wasn't until the C 2's that they started gluing the backs on. With that said, I have read some other comments about build inconsistencies and as I stated in this post, mine were built without any damping material in them.