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OK, now that you're here. We've started down that slippery slope again with the system changes and inevitable tweaks that go hand-in-hand with such an endeavor. The sad story is...I've picked up a pair of Chorus II's and have been listening to them for about a week now. My original thoughts were to modify the crossover network with something more exotic, however, I've abandoned that idea for now bc I think that it won't ameliorate the harshness I'm getting with the mids. It is so bright, in fact, that if I were to turn the fronts of the speakers outwards, so that they are at a 270 degree angle with respect to one another, I still have WELL defined "central image" with near perfect attenuation! Of course the top end is now severely rolled off. At this time of night, with few options at hand, I removed the stock mids and replaced them with a pair of JBL 2470's w/titanium diaphragms mated to 2370A clone horns that I picked up at auction(while in one of my recent "I'm gonna build it from scratch" phases)....S-M-O-O-O-O-T-H!!!! Now, as one can plainly tell from the pic that it's a wide horn and clearly can't be mounted here without significant alteration to what is a beautiful oak cab. So where does that leave MOI? Do I go for a less directional horn for the stock driver(if that is at all an option), change to another Klipsch middriver or sell off the recently acquired Chorus II's to pursue that JBL/Edgarhorn thing?? I know, I know...no comparison, but there must be some stopgap measure that I can take that will allow me to enjoy the II's in the short term while I design that "big rig". I will immediately implement any reasonable recommendations. Sorry for all the alliteration. For reference we are running a Dynaco CDV-PRO w/Siemens E188CC's(7308), AQ Lapis X3 interconnects, Modified Musical Design SP-2B w/Siemens 7308's & van den Hul Magnum Hybrid speaker cables. Mikecwm3.gif

choruscleve.JPG

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first the obvious question: why did you buy them in the first place? did you not listen to them first?

but, you've got'em, so full speed ahead! I'd leave them stock and enjoy them while you build/buy your dream system. you might try stuffing some polyfil in the midrange horn to tone it down a bit.

------------------

JDM

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Looks like my subwoofer. It has the plate sub amp sitting on top of in. There is a blue, floral-pattern towel sitting under it to protect the gunuine vynal finish.

Are you bypasing the "old" tweeter on the speakers?

------------------

Receiver: Sony STR-DE675

CD player: Sony CDP-CX300

Turntable: Technics SL-J3 with Audio-Technica TR485U

Speakers: JBL HLS-610

Subwoofer: JBL 4648A-8

Sub amp: Parts Express 180 watt

Center/surrounds: Teac 3-way bookshelfs

Yes, it sucks, but better to come. KLIPSCH soon! My computer is better than my stereo!

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I basically bought the speakers to try based upon the recommendations of many of this forum's members. I had to have them shipped from quite a distance so could not listen to them locally. I thought about floral towels but opted for the floral potholders for their cwm15.gifOBVIOUS damping qualities. I think I saw it in an engineering book somewhere?cwm13.gif I also thought they would protect the oil finish from the nearly 10 lb driver in the rear. The midriver/horn are outta the picture entirely. The "high quality " splice .cwm31.gif you see where the middriver once sat is the point at which the new driver/horn are inserted into the existing crossover. James, thanks for the genuine effort here. Long paragraph over.

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Are you sure that big horn isnt brighter than the mid horn in the chorus?

WOW, i like the horn!

I would put the mid driver back in the chorus, then build a box for the big one on top, then call it k-horn2s!

Just set the output from the crossover to the JBL!

Have the driver in the chorus as a dummy!

Are you sure you want to do this mod?

You know, you could take a grinder to the horn, grind it to fit, then repaint it, and drill new holes, just take the driver off!

Regards Jim

This message has been edited by Jim Cornell on 03-23-2002 at 12:11 PM

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I trully dont understand why hed want to install that huge horn!

But to each his own!!

That horn could be grinded down to fit, hed just have to drill new holes and cut the box!

I doubht the resale would be very high, and no chorus arent junk, id put them at cornwall level!

Regards Jim

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I really don't want to mount this monster if I can avoid it. The excercise that I'm going through here was to determine if the brightness I was hearing was due to the stock Chorus by way of driver/horn or crossover. After hacking this thing into the circuit to play along side the other elements in the system I could tell it is the stock driver and/or horn causing my grief. BTW, it's really 11 lbs not 10(according to the spec sheet) and I couldn't mount it through the existing hole for the middriver if I wanted to because it simply won't fit! Here's a side shot of the 2 mounted together. It is by far smoother sounding than the stock driver/horn combo. Spec'd from 500Hz - 12000kHz, but I understand that it goes higher with the stock phenolic impregnated linen diaphragm replaced with the titanium. I'll have to have a look-see at the 4638's, after all, it was you that steered me to the 2470 in the first place. cwm1.gif I'd really like to get a wooden horn, either from Sierra or the Doctor himself to try with the 4638's. I'm really liking this experimentation very much!cwm27.gif

jblsideshot.JPG

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Junkie---Ahhh, those old Alnico JBL drivers are so pretty. The new ferrites sound just as good but still...My 2470s with Radian aluminum diaphragms are flat out to 16,000 on axis (the highest band reading on my RTA) when on the saladbowls. The collapsing directivity, both horizontal and vertical, of the saladbowls is extending the on-axis response. Are those PAudio horns? Are you using the Chorus tweeters or running as a 2-way?

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BigT--- The JBL is just thrown in circuit as part of a 3 way using the stock 600/5000 crossovers points It's definitely not the ideal for showing off the JBL's potential but it's all I had on short notice. You augmenting your rig up top with a supertweeter or are you going "au natural" to 16K? As for the horns, I am not sure? I bought the combo for the drivers only figuring I'd use them as a starting point to build the speakers having set my fancy on some beautiful wood horns...probably going to ebaY them eventually. I'd also like to try some different diaphragms, maybe aluminum for comparison to the titanium. Do you think the aluminum Radians will yield enough of an improvement over the titaniums to be a worth the extra $$. I see from the 4638's response curves on the JBL site they have a severe dip in response @700Hz, so I think it best to get a horn that will enable me to do the crossover at or below that, what's your take on horns that will get me down there? As for the stock Chorus setup, my thought was to replace the 6uF cap with a very large paper in oil variety and increase the 20 ohm series resistor slightly for now. Otherwise I might have to relegate listening to Mike Morgan and the Crawl to the car system on the way to & from the shop.cwm14.gif

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Junkie---No tweeters, I like the sound of 2-ways, highs sound very smooth. I've some excellent horn tweeters around here but no need to use them. Aluminum supposedly goes a litle higher than titanium, I dunno, my titanium JBL 2427s sound fine, I'm happy with both the Radianized 2470s and the 2427s. The best horn I've used to get down past the 700-800 area is the trusty old Altec 511B, great sounding horn, needs some damping, you probably know the drill.

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