Pete H Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 I am looking to help out a friend that just had a POS Sony sub puke on him and he needs to replace it but doesn't want to go more than $500. This is strictly for HT and in a very large room (approx. 9000 cu') that is wide open with high cathedral ceilings. Should I start combing the used market or should we build something for this? He and I are both builders so we wouldn't be aprehensive to do a complicated build and the wood that would be used would not be included in the $500 budget as between the two of us we have tons of material, including Baltic Birch. I've also read some posts regarding some of the kits that are available and would consider that too. Thanks in advance for any thoughts that you might have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Bust. Do it yourself is the best bang for your buck and you can certainly do MUCH better than the Sony he had. I can't think of any $500.00 build that would fill that room though. Spend the $500.00 on an amp and driver(s) and build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 The problem is that I never considered building a sub and although I've read through some of the builds on various types, including seeing the pics of your subs mounted in the walls ( that was an eye opener), I really have no clue which direction to go on the build and what plans or kits could offer the best potential in that large space, given the fact that he's just one of those guys that doesn't have the "bug" like some of us do and really isn't going to invest much more than the $500 in the amp and driver. So again, knowing that it won't be the ultimate sub or subs for that space, do you think that there is one design over another that is going to deliver the best results for HT? Horn loaded, sealed box, ported, or whatever is the term used to describe what you have (just not coming to mind right now). BTW, I hope someday I get to Texas and have a chance to listen to your set ups.........you are a wild man when it comes to subs[Y] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Pete, you're welcome over any time. You can get more SPL with one of the horn loaded configs, than the other styles. You need to get with your friend and see what is a "presentable" size he can live with and go from there. Many of the horn loaded and ported boxes are large compared to what most are accustomed to. Start with a size and go from there. If size isn't an issue your options increase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 For this application the WAF isn't important (we aren't going to ask and she works for me []) so it can be quite large as the room itself is huge and we can work with the exterior asthetics at the end of the build, BTW, the black gloss finish that you put on your horn loaded build looked incredible! I'm going to lend him my one of my subs for the time being, but we would like to settle on a plan quickly and get the pieces cut this weekend and the driver ordered so I'm all ears on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 If size isn't an issue, you can build the TUBA HT like psg did. When you take out the expense of wood and labor, you shouldn't have an issue coming in under $500.00. Plans are $15.00 and can be had HERE . You can reference psg's thread for pics and hints HERE . He's edited the first post in his thread to make things easy to find. Be sure you have an opening to the room that will alow a "30" wide box to pass through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 BTW, the black gloss finish that you put on your horn loaded build looked incredible! Thanks, it's a neat little sub. I've got a 25 wpc amp on my Lascalas and a 125 watt amp on the sub. It has no problem whatsoever keeping up with the Klipsch's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 .........you are a wild man when it comes to subs Why would you think that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 If you look back at that thread, you will see I responded immediatly to you about that picture. I'm going to get those plans, but would you have any recommendations on the driver and an amp? Dumb question, and let me rephrase it. Give me some driver and amp recommendations please[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 I think THIS is the driver recomended in the plans, but DO NOT buy it on my say so. Get the plans and use the drivers recomended in the plans. Use only the recomended drivers. If you paypal $15.00, you could possibly have the plans sent to you today. Let me look for an amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 THIS amp is a little overkill, but I personally like headroom in my electronics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 I appreciate all the info. I'm going to order some plans tonight and see where it goes. You should have seen his face when I showed him the dimensions and the pictures on the web site, it was classic. He said "do I really need something that big?" and I told him "no you don't; you need three of them, but we'll just build one to start" I was ROTFLMAO when you could tell that "Married Man" was trying to put his tail between his legs. I'm different as I have already told the GF that if we ever take the next step, her pre nup will state that if she ever bitc*'s about any audio or HT purchase or build I do, I will be able to burn a pair of shoes and a purse for each occasion, and that I retain ownership of everything that requires electric or an audio signal to run. BTW, how did you ever get so deep into the audio world, especially subs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 BTW, how did you ever get so deep into the audio world, especially subs? I don't really know. I've always enjoyed all things audio. I didn't start building subs untill my son was old enough to drive. My first build was a dual 12" ported box and it kind of went from there. That was 5 years ago. We went from the dual 12" box to the quad 18" ported box in the pic above. I had to buy welding cable to run the amp. He ended up hitting 150 dB @ 34Hz (in a mini van) and it wasn't even an SPL build. The box was tuned for music. I think my favorite subs are the ones I built for my KP-250's. The first Klipsch speakers that I ever boutght were for my living room (HT). Once I got those, I started reading threads here and eventually got some Heritage stuff. It's a great hobby that keeps me out of the bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 So you are building a Tuba HT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 So you are building a Tuba HT?That's the plan. I went through your wonderful build thread and ordered the plans last night. Any regrets with your build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 One. Use a LOT of glue for the second side panel that seals it up, otherwise you'll worry that you might be undetected leaks inside. I could have used more. I don't think I have a leak, but it's hard to tell. It's an incredible distorsion-free sounding sub; just great sound without any mechanical or port blowing noise. It's very easy for me to blend it into the system for 2-channel movies, and gives drums a very live and realistic-sounding kick-in-the-chest. Provides good room-shacking LFE with 70W peaks in my room. Others seem to manage 3 to 5 dB more sensitivity than I do, so my room isn't great, but I still get all the SPL I need from it. No regrets at all, but I'm still curious about tapped horn designs. If I had to do it over, maybe I'd build the long version (LP) instead for easier concealment, although I have a nice otherwise-unused spot in the room for mine. Don't underestimate its size that is even bigger 18 inchesfrom a wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 A couple observations: Don't jack with the PL till it's dry and use plenty of it. Don't substitute wood glue for PL. Use a screw to seal an open PL tube, it's easier to pull a plug of dry glue out with a screw than a nail. No one will ever see what's inside the box, so it doesn't have to be pretty. If your first couple of panels are off even slightly, it will be magnified as you build out. Read the directions a couple of times before you do anything. Don't vary from the plans. There's nothing wrong with only assembling one panel a day. It gives the PL a chance to cure and gives you time to think about the next panel. Be sure your T-nuts don't work loose by adding glue to the non driver side of the nuts AFTER they are installed. You don't want them falling out when your box is done and you're installing your driver. That's all I can think of for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Should I start combing the used market or should we build something for this? My guess is that you will need to build something. Most high-output horn-loaded or direct-radiating subs are not going for $500 used. ...but doesn't want to go more than $500. This is strictly for HT and in a very large room (approx. 9000 cu') that is wide open with high cathedral ceilings. You can build two TH-SPUD designs for that price in materials, and they will do very well in one or two corners - no problem on filling the 9000 ft^3 room with bass. Ask Rudy81 - he's built two (and so have I). I don't believe that they are difficult to build - maybe easier than the Tuba design. They will appear less obtrusive than the Tuba, for sure. The output from two SPUDs should be able to disorient the audience's equilibria...[H]Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I thought about 2 SPUDS but didn't think he could get 4 drivers and 2 amps for under $500.00 (or maybe 1 big amp). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 My total material costs for the two SPUDs is just under $500. Amps are separate - but I find that most people have a spare channel or two sitting around. The SPUDs can run on about 100 Watts each (in series 8 Ohm mode) or less if using two amplifier channels for one SPUD (4 Ohm mode). Plans are free. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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