Brac Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 Using a browser called Rockmelt, on a PC. I use it for the RSS feeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 do I really need both of the "hatch panels" I can't see what you could do through the small one that you couldn't do thru the large?If you are using the access panels on the sides of the unit (like the Danley drawing shows) then you will need both to access both of the drivers' install nuts/screws to replace or repair a driver. If however your access port is on the face, angled like the DTS-10, then one port is sufficient, and it doesn't have to be sealed so completely like the original design ports on the sidesAlso, I see where the plans call for an Speakon term. Is this the best option?I like the Speakon connectors, but you don't have to use them. It's just a very good design.However I am having trouble making a final decision between lock miter and just a rabbit, for the edge panels. The lock miter is more work but leaves no exposed plywood edgesEither way will work - the better the air seal, the better.Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Today's progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Looks great! [Y] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_v-daamhvmUI/Sn8-S0apRKI/AAAAAAAAAEk/R9KWfhxDzgs/s1600-h/stuffing.jpg Polyester batting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Thanks Dennis. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 You may have to register at DIYaudio.com to see this image. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/subwoofers/229457d1309491145-push-pull-vs-normal-distortion-compared-20hz-49v.png Shows about a 30dB reduction in 2nd harmonic distortion at 20hz , over 20dB reduction of 4th harmonic from push-pull mounting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Cool... Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Thanks for both of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 I may just get to fire this up tonight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I thought 2 small bags of fiber would do it, but I need 1 more, it was pretty thin so I doubled it. Just glued the second side on, and I starting the side panels! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I may just get to fire this up tonight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I thought 2 small bags of fiber would do it, but I need 1 more, it was pretty thin so I doubled it. Just glued the second side on, and I starting the side panels! [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Well.................... Tonight was last night, we want a report!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Took a bit more time to get the access panels finished up and sealed. I'm moving it into the theater after lunch! [H] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Chu killin me homes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Been doing some testing, will report soon. I'm running this with an EP1500, in bridged mode, any thoughts on how much power it is safe to feed this thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I'm running a bridged Crown XTi-1000 for each SPUD - which is specified to be 1kW into 8 ohms (0.5% THD) pure resistive load, but I find that I never have a problem running the drivers into their stops--I back off the gain to avoid that. It's quite riveting at those levels, especially if the sub's mouth is in a corner. I use a higher gain for 2-channel mode and a somewhat lower gain (-3 to -6 db) for HT LFE mode (LFE on some DVDs or BDs is wayyy too high - about 5-10 dB IMHO). Crossover from Jubs to SPUDs is 40 Hz. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 As this is my first foray into any DIY speaker, or playing with a "real" sub woofer, I DL'd some test tones and played 20, 25, and 31Hz.. With the gain turned up to the 2 O'clock position, The 31Hz is very clear and clean, the 25 I seem to feel more than hear, and the 20 I really didn't fool with much. __________________________________________________ 2 things,One) my Pre is a Sherwood Newcastle P-965 which is know to set sub level several DB to low, so what I've always done is run the setup, and then turn up the gain (sometimes using a Sound level meter). I will get the sound meter out tomorrow and see what it says at 20, and 25. ____________________________________________________________________________________Two, the fan on the EP1500 is wicked loud, I just pulled the cover so I could unplug the fan for testing. An internet search gives a replacement fan, that is "much quieter"._____________________________________________ What is the simplest testing software? I'd like to see some graphs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Forgot to mention, it kinda shakes the house....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 You definately need to change the fan. BTW, don't run your amp for too long without the fan...you might regret it. I have two of these, and they rock the house with BD movies' LFE channel. IIRC, this is my response taken outdoors. Enjoy! BTW, I run them with an EP4000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 The fan swap is really easy. I believe there's a 24v fan in the 1500, similar to the 2500. There's plenty of info HERE . Be sure you orient the fan so it blows in the same direction as the stock fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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