Audio Flynn Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 I am so busy with workI have no idea what the heck to buy. Grey screen I was reading in some reviews. I am open to powered or unpowered. There is electric in the cieling I can tap into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornfedksboy Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Need more information. Is your room light controlled? What projector do you have? Do you need it to be removable or would it stay in place? 16:9 or 2.35:1 ar? What's your budget? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audio Flynn Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 It is a first floor living room that faces east. Screen would be lowered from front picture window soffit. Need to hide the screen. Picture window is in the center of the room. We only watch video at night but it stays light in Michigan until 10: PM EDT in summer months. 16:9 I only want to buy one screen for the next 10 years or so. $750-1500 more if necessary. I am not sure what you mean by light controlled. I am considering the Epson projector. Epson - PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 Projector Model: V11H373120 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 If you are only watching only "TV" 16:9 is fine. If movies are a regular thing 2.35:1 or don't bother with a screen/projector at all, IMO. I got samples from a few companies, thought I would go with a grey screen but ended up liking a brilliant white (1.4 gain) much better. Sure the grey made the black blacker...but the rest of the picture just looked a bit off. If you have any sort of light control, the ability to darken the room, I would shy away from gray screen. Especially since all the new projectors can throw so much more light. I was ready to spend 1,500-2,000 on a screent to do it right if I had to, but in the end I found Carada to be the winner no matter the price. I looked at Stewart, Da Lite, etc all the ususal suspects and Carada still won out. Bonus that it was the cheapest. Not sure if they make retractable screens or not. Contact the companies and ask for samples, they send them out all the time. Buy the projector and put the samples on the wall, test them out and make a decision that way. You will be looking at it long after your current projector is in the land fill so you might as well do it right. Best of luck and happy hunting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audio Flynn Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 If you are only watching only "TV" 16:9 is fine. If movies are a regular thing 2.35:1 or don't bother with a screen/projector at all, IMO. I got samples from a few companies, thought I would go with a grey screen but ended up liking a brilliant white (1.4 gain) much better. Sure the grey made the black blacker...but the rest of the picture just looked a bit off. If you have any sort of light control, the ability to darken the room, I would shy away from gray screen. Especially since all the new projectors can throw so much more light. I was ready to spend 1,500-2,000 on a screent to do it right if I had to, but in the end I found Carada to be the winner no matter the price. I looked at Stewart, Da Lite, etc all the ususal suspects and Carada still won out. Bonus that it was the cheapest. Not sure if they make retractable screens or not. Contact the companies and ask for samples, they send them out all the time. Buy the projector and put the samples on the wall, test them out and make a decision that way. You will be looking at it long after your current projector is in the land fill so you might as well do it right. Best of luck and happy hunting. Just the post I was looking for. Do you have any projectors to suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 My 2004 HT build out is starting to show its age. I scoured all the info at the time and ended up with a Panasonic AE700, the evolution of that projector continued and whatever the replacement model of its day was always top of the heap or close to it. I am reading great things about an Epson, don't recall the model number off hand..but I am pretty sure my next projector will be the Panasonic AE4000. It was the top pick a year ago and it looks like Panasonic is skipping a year. Lots of good info at Projector Central. Here are there top 10 current picks http://www.projectorcentral.com/home-theater-multimedia-projectors.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhendrix Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Talk to Chris Seymour at http://www.seymourav.com/. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted April 20, 2011 Moderators Share Posted April 20, 2011 I've definitely been more than pleased with my Panasonic AE3000U. The AE4000U can be had for less than I paid for my 3000U. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 I've definitely been more than pleased with my Panasonic AE3000U. The AE4000U can be had for less than I paid for my 3000U. And less than I paid for my AE700[] What was the evolution of that projector, 500, 700, 1000, 3000 and currently 4000? At any rate they have all been great in their day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornfedksboy Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 The Epson 8350, is what I just purchased. I'm waiting for it to come in, but it has been rated as one of the top two or three pjs under $3000.00 and it can be had for about $1000.00 less than most of it's competition. A second option would be the 8700UB (also Epson) which is THX certified and does better with the black levels (UB being ultra-black). The 2.35:1 is the way to go for a movies only theater, and I was planning on going that route for my HT until I saw that it was going to cost significantly more than my budget...roughly an extra grand for comporable picture quality, so I'm going to get the 16:9 screen (which can be had for under $500.00) and the PJ which can be had for way under $2500.00. The Elite Home2 screens can be had for around $600.00 motorized at about 100 inches on line in the 16:9 AR. You might want to check those out. A white screen with a slight gain is likely how you will want to go as that will give you the best color detail. The grey screen only helps in the black detail which can wash out when alot ambient light is an issue. Getting screen samples after buying your PJ would be a good idea here. Based on your first two posts, it looks like a budget of $2000.00-$2500.00 for PJ and screen. That was very similar to my budget and I chose the Epson 8350 and a 110" permanently mounted white screen (1.1 gain) with 16:9 ratio. The motorized screen and Epson 8700UB will also fit into that budget. 2.35:1 AR screen and projector would be even better, but will put you closer to $4000.00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 2.35:1 AR screen and projector would be even better, but will put you closer to $4000.00. Anything wrong with a 2.35:1 screen and a regular 16:9 projector that will project black outside the screen? That's what I plan on doing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornfedksboy Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 If I understand your question, you are planning on using the theater screen and a 16:9 pj? If that is the case, what you will end up with is black bars on the right and left part of your screen. If you zoom to get rid of the bars you will project the top and bottom portion of the picture off of your screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted April 20, 2011 Moderators Share Posted April 20, 2011 Anything wrong with a 2.35:1 screen and a regular 16:9 projector that will project black outside the screen? That's what I plan on doing... Nope, that's exactly what I have. Works great. The panny has a zoom memory that I can set presets for 16:9 and 2.35:1 where it remembers the zoom and focus that I have set for each format. Two clicks and it does it's thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 ...The 2.35:1 is the way to go for a movies only theater, and I was planning on going that route for my HT until I saw that it was going to cost significantly more than my budget...roughly an extra grand for comporable picture quality... Movies only??? I have to strongly disagree with that statement. If you want a 16:9 and are happy that is cool as long as you like what you have great. But there is not a single reason a 2.35:1 set up should cost a penny more then 16:9. Do some research on constant height HTs. You can watch anything from 4:3 (old standard TV AR) to 2.35:1, which includes 16:9 not EVER having any black bars on the top/bottom. You simply zoom the lense to fill the screen top to bottom. You only ever have black bars on the sides. If you get a 16:9 screen and watch even very few movies I guarantee you will be disapointed. You are not getting the maximum size you can and it will feel like you are watching a TV at home not a movie in a theater. Just for the record 16:9 is really 1.78:1. But so many people refer to it as 16:9, which is saying the same thing a different way. If you want to talk movie house screens at 2.35:1 then all the other sizes for accurate comparison should be: 1.33 to 1 TV1.78 to 1 HD1.85 to 1 Lots of standard movies2.05 to 12.35 to 1 Wide MoviesRead this page and it will all make sense. As you look at the different screen size examples, imagine that every picure above the bottom one with the plane on it is projected on that screen with the plane. And it fills the screen top to bottom. All you will have is extra space on the sides. http://www.carada.com/Projection-Criterion-Series-Projector-Screens.aspx 1.85 and 2.05 can be a happy medium. Personally I think a 1.33:1 (16:9) is the worst screen choice. FWIW, you can do the opposite of a constant height screen with a large 1.33:1 screen and have every format fill the entire width side to side with different ammounts of black on top/bottom. If you have a screen that is not 1.33 or 2.35 at some point you will ALWAYS have back bars on all four sides. And in turn have a smaller picure than you could. Sorry for the rant, I just feel very strongly about this and want Audio Flynn to have all the info he can to make an informed decision. Mainly because I grew up in the next city over, Plymouth, and had my first apartment in Livonia. 7 Mile and Middlebelt, baby! Oh the good times with KG4s and Forte IIs in that place. Swing by Bates and get a sack of cheese burgers for me will ya!!?? I also worked at DRC, I hear it is a mall now or something...so sad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted April 21, 2011 Moderators Share Posted April 21, 2011 I debated and researched long and hard when I was trying to decide between a standard 16:9 screen or to go with a 2.35:1 cinescope screen and I'm TOTALLY glad I went with a Cinescope screen. It really pulls you into the movie being 8ft wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornfedksboy Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 ...The 2.35:1 is the way to go for a movies only theater, and I was planning on going that route for my HT until I saw that it was going to cost significantly more than my budget...roughly an extra grand for comporable picture quality... Movies only??? I have to strongly disagree with that statement. If you want a 16:9 and are happy that is cool as long as you like what you have great. But there is not a single reason a 2.35:1 set up should cost a penny more then 16:9. Do some research on constant height HTs. You can watch anything from 4:3 (old standard TV AR) to 2.35:1, which includes 16:9 not EVER having any black bars on the top/bottom. You simply zoom the lense to fill the screen top to bottom. You only ever have black bars on the sides. If you get a 16:9 screen and watch even very few movies I guarantee you will be disapointed. You are not getting the maximum size you can and it will feel like you are watching a TV at home not a movie in a theater. Just for the record 16:9 is really 1.78:1. But so many people refer to it as 16:9, which is saying the same thing a different way. If you want to talk movie house screens at 2.35:1 then all the other sizes for accurate comparison should be: 1.33 to 1 TV1.78 to 1 HD1.85 to 1 Lots of standard movies2.05 to 12.35 to 1 Wide MoviesRead this page and it will all make sense. As you look at the different screen size examples, imagine that every picure above the bottom one with the plane on it is projected on that screen with the plane. And it fills the screen top to bottom. All you will have is extra space on the sides. http://www.carada.com/Projection-Criterion-Series-Projector-Screens.aspx 1.85 and 2.05 can be a happy medium. Personally I think a 1.33:1 (16:9) is the worst screen choice. FWIW, you can do the opposite of a constant height screen with a large 1.33:1 screen and have every format fill the entire width side to side with different ammounts of black on top/bottom. If you have a screen that is not 1.33 or 2.35 at some point you will ALWAYS have back bars on all four sides. And in turn have a smaller picure than you could. Sorry for the rant, I just feel very strongly about this and want Audio Flynn to have all the info he can to make an informed decision. Mainly because I grew up in the next city over, Plymouth, and had my first apartment in Livonia. 7 Mile and Middlebelt, baby! Oh the good times with KG4s and Forte IIs in that place. Swing by Bates and get a sack of cheese burgers for me will ya!!?? I also worked at DRC, I hear it is a mall now or something...so sad. I really appreciate the above post. Maybe I'm not following. If I get a 1.78:1 screen and watch a 2.35:1 movie on it, won't I have black bars on the top and bottom of my screen? If I get a 2.35:1 screen and watch television on it, won't I have black bars on the sides? I have not yet purchased my scree, but will be doing so shortly, so I am very interested in this. I can buy a 16:9 screen at 110 inches for $240.00. Same material for 2.35:1 I hanen't found for less than $500.00 for 8 foot wide. Am I not looking in the right places? Also, my pj projects a 16:9 aspect ratio. To get a PJ that has 2.35:1 lens was about $1000.00 more. So won't my PJ ALWAYS prject a 16:9 AR causing black bars on the top and bottom? If my width stays constant, aren't I just choosing whether or not I want my black bars on the top and bottom of my screen or on my walls? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted April 21, 2011 Moderators Share Posted April 21, 2011 If I get a 1.78:1 screen and watch a 2.35:1 movie on it, won't I have black bars on the top and bottom of my screen? You are correct If I get a 2.35:1 screen and watch television on it, won't I have black bars on the sides? You are correct Also, my pj projects a 16:9 aspect ratio. To get a PJ that has 2.35:1 lens was about $1000.00 more. So won't my PJ ALWAYS prject a 16:9 AR causing black bars on the top and bottom? That's why chose what I call the poor man's anamorphic setup. To get a true 2.35:1 image, you will need to purchase an anamorphic lens and sled and decide whether or not you want the sled to be manual or motorized. Big money...much more than I wanted to spend. My setup is a Constant Height. When watching 16:9 movie, I have grey bars on the sides. These easily disappear once the movie starts and not distracting like having grey bars on top and bottom. When I'm watching a 2.35:1 movie, all you have to do is zoom in to where your image fills the entire screen. The grey bars on top and bottom spill past the screen and are not shown (at least on my setup). This subject came up awhile back so I had made a quick video of how I switch between formats. Two clicks on my remote and the projector zooms and focuses on a "Zoom Memory" preset I have setup. Download the Video Here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornfedksboy Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Thanks Youthman. I clicked on the video and see what you did, and that makes perfect sense. Since my room is 100% light controlled, will I be able to see the black bars on a white screen? It didn't look from the video that they would be visible. My screen width is non-negotiable. I will be getting an 8 foot wide screen no matter what the AR as that is what will be allowed by my room dimensions. If I get a 2.35:1, will I see the bars on my flat-finish red wall when zoomed? I guess my question is: where do I want my black bars in a dark room? White screen or red walls? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted April 21, 2011 Moderators Share Posted April 21, 2011 Since my room is 100% light controlled, will I be able to see the black bars on a white screen? My false wall is a dark color so I "barely" see it at first, but as soon as the movie starts, I have never noticed it at all. I will be getting an 8 foot wide screen no matter what the AR as that is what will be allowed by my room dimensions. Same here. Because of the design of my false wall, the wides I could go was 8" which is 103" diagonal in 2.35:1 AR. I love it. If I could have gone even wider, I would have but am perfectly satisfied with the results. [] I guess my question is: where do I want my black bars in a dark room? White screen or red walls? To me, it would definitely be black bars on a red wall vs black bars on a white screen. Think about it, black on white are total opposite colors so to me, that is the most distracting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 I am limited by height (not acoustically transparent), so will go wide 2.35:1 and zoom to constant height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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