Rhetor Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Picked up a new to me pair of '79 K-horns, KBWO. They do have a few veneer chips, acceptable. One has a water stain on top from a leaky plant from the previous owner. A few paint scuffs on the side veneer where they were jammed into painted walls. (Can't figure how to get the paint off short of sanding--which makes no sense to do more damage.) But for being walnut oil they are as dry as a gord! I sincerely imagine they have not seen any care since their birth in Hope when Jimmy Carter was President! So, what product do I need to buy to condition the wood veneer on these walnut oil K-horns? I want to buy the right stuff. (I have already used some TLC on them--"Tender Loving Crites" crossover repair kit, basically just new caps installed.)'m. I also recently picked a pair of '76 La Scalas and '84 Heresys both in raw birch. Is there anything out there to clean and condition those and leaving them stock in raw birch? Thanks for the tips ahead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davis419b Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Look like you are on a hot streak, don't stop now ! Congrats on the new speakers. You have a pm ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 I have used a flat blade scraper (even a knife blade), kept perpendicular to the wood, to remove paint scuffs. You keep it verticle so you don't dig into the wood. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 " I want to buy the right stuff." Rubbing with walnuts restores the oil (really). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panacea Engineering Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Watco Natural Oil and four ought (0000) steel wool will bring them back to a "New" appearance. Be sure to use clean rags (preferably cotton) to wipe the excess. Old Cotton T shirts make the best rags, IMO.....Just some thoughts......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhetor Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 I did not include the two pair of KG4s (one oak and one walnut) and the little black KG2s that started all of this . . . A month ago! Have just been amazed by stuff available. But, I have worked it hard in my spare time, and have been willing to do some long drives! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhetor Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 I have used a flat blade scraper (even a knife blade), kept perpendicular to the wood, to remove paint scuffs. You keep it verticle so you don't dig into the wood. Bruce Hi, Bruce . . . Been reading your posts on occasion. That is a great idea! As long as I am extremely careful, but it makes sense! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhetor Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 Look like you are on a hot streak, don't stop now ! Congrats on the new speakers. You have a pm ! My wife calls it "Klipsch-crack": one hit and you are addicted! It started with a hit on a little pair of poorly painted, incredible sounding KG2s a month ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhetor Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 You're nuts . . . I prefer other, non-Eco friendly solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhetor Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 Watco Natural Oil and four ought (0000) steel wool will bring them back to a "New" appearance. Be sure to use clean rags (preferably cotton) to wipe the excess. Old Cotton T shirts make the best rags, IMO.....Just some thoughts......... Now that sounds a little dangerous, but aggressive . . . Why the steel wool? Is there a finish under there, or just stain and then oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhetor Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 " I want to buy the right stuff." Rubbing with walnuts restores the oil (really). You're nuts . . . I prefer other, non-Eco friendly solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panacea Engineering Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Rhetor, The steel wool (four ought is very fine) will take out the blemishes, the paint scuffs and will do nicely on blending in the water mark. Try it in a place you can not see, like the back side of the top hat. It certainly will not scratch the surface....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhetor Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 Rhetor, The steel wool (four ought is very fine) will take out the blemishes, the paint scuffs and will do nicely on blending in the water mark. Try it in a place you can not see, like the back side of the top hat. It certainly will not scratch the surface....... Makes sense . . . But Watco NATURAL oil even though they are walnut oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annt Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Rhetor, The wood is Walnut and the orignal finish is very likely a BLO (boiled linseed oil). Watco Danish Oil is one option, so is a natural Teak and Tung oil. All applied with a 0000 steel wool. The safest and easiest option is just use an all natural paste wax like Daddy Van's and apply with 0000 steel wool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 "You're nuts . . . I prefer other, non-Eco friendly solutions." Probably too much trouble for a Klipschorn, but works really well on scratches! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhetor Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 I have decided to go with Watco Danish Oil and some 0000 steel wool. Going to try that to get some of the paint scuffs off, to oil these dry puppies, and . . . Somebody had a,plant on top . . . Stained top with some darker color from soil, I am sure, but much of the stain in the 12 inch circle has washed out. So, I need to use one of the Watco Walnut Danish Oil products . . . To get some color back in the washed out light area . . . Does anybody know what color of the Watco Danish Oil I need to use . . . Light, Dark, or Medium Grade . . . Just want to buy the right one without buying them all. Which walnut oil would match 1979 K-horns? Light walnut, dark walnut, or medium walnut? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panacea Engineering Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Rhetor, You might want to go to Home Depot and just buy a pint of the Watco Natural. I think you will find that the steel wool and oil will "Blend" the original color back to the stained "water marked" area. It will create a "slurry" and will smoothe out any inperfections. try the Natural first before you think about applying any colored Watco to them. You may be pleasantly surprised. Remember to use clean rags and wipe between applications. It may take two or three apps to get enough oil and mix the color back. The Watco will release the existing stain that is there already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhetor Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 Rhetor, You might want to go to Home Depot and just buy a pint of the Watco Natural. I think you will find that the steel wool and oil will "Blend" the original color back to the stained "water marked" area. It will create a "slurry" and will smoothe out any inperfections. try the Natural first before you think about applying any colored Watco to them. You may be pleasantly surprised. Remember to use clean rags and wipe between applications. It may take two or three apps to get enough oil and mix the color back. The Watco will release the existing stain that is there already. If I go natural, Am I blowing my opportunity to get my color back later in the washed out area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panacea Engineering Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 With the age of the speakers, you will be hard pressed to match the existing color unless you completely redo the entire cabinet. Hopefully, you will be able to blend the water spot in with what is in the wood now. You will just have to try it and there is NO guaranty of anything. Again, try it in an area that wont be seen first, as you are the only one who can tell what is going on. Any color that you apply will have a tendency to darken and you stand the chance of having to do the whole thing. At worst, you are only out the cost of a pint of Watco Natural and it sure can be used on any speaker requiring oil and not affect the "Natural" color. I have done this, in the past, with water spots/stains and it came out great....YMMV.....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhetor Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 Sounds like it definitely is worth the shot. They are dry . . . From the dirt inside the top hat, I am confident they never were even vacuumed there, and confident they were never recoiled by the paint scuffs left by slamming them into place the one time he moved them from his Dad's place to his own. My La Scalas and Heresys are raw birch. I am thinking about giving them a light sanding . . . With like 400 grit and sandpaper, then putting on a clear lacquer, maybe a simple wipe on lacquer. On the La Scalas the tops and backs seem to be completely still raw (just like my Heresys are totally raw birch), but it looks like there may have been a super light coat of lacquer on the fronts and sides (codes on stickers are LS-BR and HDBR). I have no desire to wreck them by painting, and have no desire for a stain. I love the raw birch look, but like the idea of just adding lacquer after a light sanding to get 36 years of ingrained house and storage dirt off of them. So, how does one clean up the surface of raw birch? Then, if I still feel like a light coat of clear lacquer, what would I use? Or, would it be to use the Watco Natural Oil and 0000 steel wool? Would raw birch look good after a Watco Natural Oil put on with steel wool and then wiped off? I know that the La Scalas and the Heresys have never seen a hint of oil....completely dry now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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