Power conditioner.

[ChipByrd]

I know this can be a contentensiou issue, but I am finally getting some descent gear together. I am loving the sound. But my house doesn't have the best electrical.

In the various opinions of this site, do they make an appreciable difference in sound? Or should I just get a good surge protector?

[RRFL]

This unit below, made a bigger difference for my system than I was expecting. I got it mainly to separate digital from analog equipment and give the digital better performance. I did not expect such a difference with the analog equipment. It was on sale for half price so I just went for it. Definitely, it is worth while. You can make a system sound like a much more expensive system so it's capable of paying for itself in certain circumstances IMO.

It is most likely that the less expensive equipment will benefit more as generally the more expensive amplifiers will have reasonable filtering systems within their power supply.

The mains power coming into your amp is almost a direct drive to the speakers via the flow control of the power transistors tracking the audio signal. So if there is noise and ripples in that power, it can be superimposed onto the audio signal. Consider, as an analogy, having a shower and then someone else turns on another tap and the temperature in the shower changes. Then they do that very quickly.

Symmetrically Balanced Power

Furman P-2300 IT E.

Furmans Symmetrically Balanced Power provides a virtually invisible noise floor by reworking incoming AC into a balanced power output. Similar to a balanced audio signal, balanced power splits a single voltage path into two separate voltage paths which are in opposite polarity, cancelling out noise and distortion on the incoming line. This noise reduction is extraordinarily efficient and linear across a huge frequency range, unveiling harmonics, overtones and low-level signals commonly masked by AC line noise.

[joshjp]

Shoot over $2,000 for a power conditioner, no thanks ill pass.[8o|]

[ChipByrd]

Shoot over $2,000 for a power conditioner, no thanks ill pass.

Yea, even if it is really helpful that is beyond my budget. I probably should have stated that my upper limit would be $500ish. But that brings up another question. I have read mixed views on whether this piece of gear should be purchased used. What say you gents?

[Don Richard]

There is no need to spend that kind of money to get balanced power. An electrical box, a 240 to 120 center-tapped isolation transformer, and a two-pole breaker is all the hardware necessary to implement an isolated balanced power circuit. That should cost less than $400 or so, including hiring an electrician to do the work. If you own your home and plan to be there for a while that's the way to go. Recording studios, medical facilities, and large scale computer installations all use this method. Here's more info:

http://www.peavey.com/support/technotes/soundsystems/PWRDIST.pdf

[ChipByrd]

One more question. I have a faint buzz that is coming through my speakers. I disconnected my preamp so that only the amp was connected and the buzz was still there. Do you think the above solution might help that. And can that buzz hurt the speakers?

[Don Richard]

If you short the inputs to the amplifier with nothing connected but the power and the speakers and still have the buzz it is likely that the amp has a problem. Both channels buzz? Almost certainly it's the amp. A low level buzz won't hurt but if it gets louder, fix the amp.

[ChipByrd]

Thanks. As I said, it is a very faint buzz. I have to put my ear near the speaker to hear it. If it gets any louder I will find a tech.

[Mighty Favog]

I found an APC H15 for $235 with the auto voltage regulator. Wound buying three of them. Not sure if it sounds better but it is a heck of a spike protector and keeping the voltage closer to 120v helps your gear last longer.

[artto]

One more question. I have a faint buzz that is coming through my speakers. I disconnected my preamp so that only the amp was connected and the buzz was still there. Do you think the above solution might help that. And can that buzz hurt the speakers?

Do you have the amplifier's power plug ground connected? If so, try lifting the ground using a 3 to 2 prong plug adaptor. There's really no danger in doing this as long as the whole system is grounded but grounded at only one point. In other words, the ground should be allowed to "float" and seek its own level back to main power source. Having multiple ground connections increases the possibility of ground loops which is often the source of buzzing problems.

[westom]

As I said, it is a very faint buzz. I have to put my ear near the speaker to hear it.

Noise is created by a loop. For example, three components are A, B, and C. The defect is in C. And when A is disconnected, the current is no longer going through B; no more noise. Why does this confuse so many? Many want to blame A rather than learn noise is a circuit - a loop. For example, lifting that ground tab is only a temporary solution. To find one part of that loop. Permanently disconnecting a safety ground is strongly discouraged.

Other techniques such as temporarily shorting an input can also help to locate the buzz. That buzz is unacceptable. But to find it requires understanding how noise exists. It is a current loop sometimes created when some other item has a problem. And temporarily eliminated when some third perfectly good item (or the safety ground tab) is disconnected. Find and eliminate the reason for that current loop.

[grimmreapersound]

A small buzz is normal if your amp gain is cranked up to eleven!

I would look more towards induced noise rather than a ground loop.

Are you running unshielded speaker wire? Are these wires running parallel to power wiring?

Check these simple things first before looking at other potential noise sources.

An easy check for ground loops is to use your ears, 60hz or 120hz buzz are typical for ground loops.