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ElipTrac-400 2-way Mike's build thread


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I bought Dave's Eliptrac 400 kit earlier in the year, but life keeps getting in the way of building them. I'll be bi-amping with a TDM active crossover, so at least I wont have to worry about a network.

Faital Pro HF 140 or the B&C driver? Both are good, seems Dave and Al K like the B&C a bit better, but didn't say why.

So I wonder how the Eliptrac 400/B&C compare against the Faital HF140/Faital LTH142 horn?

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I bought Dave's Eliptrac 400 kit earlier in the year, but life keeps

getting in the way of building them. I'll be bi-amping with a TDM active

crossover, so at least I wont have to worry about a network.

Faital Pro HF 140 or the B&C driver? Both are good, seems Dave and Al K like the B&C a bit better, but didn't say why.

So I wonder how the Eliptrac 400/B&C compare against the Faital HF140/Faital LTH142 horn?

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I thought you were using the B&C DE85TN. Whats the difference betrween that one and the one you are using?

Has anybody considered laminating the horn layers with 3M Super 77 spray cement or a brush-on contact cement? Perhaps there's less opportunity for adhesive seepage into the sanding area that way.

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the 750-16 had better numbers , bigger magnets , 16 oHm , higher sensitivity

ALK said that it was better on paper , I took a gamble with that & it's paid off

I didn't have a 85 to compare the 750 to so I can't say which sounded better

I'll post some pix of the 9 horns ,I have just one more coat of paint & they are done

glue seepage has been solved , you just have to clean up :-[ any ooze as soon as it happens & sanding is easy .

I figured out the primer problem ,

seem MDF edges soaks up can after can of primer & these horns are all MDF edges Dave said he was going thru 5 or more cans of spray primer

per horn & then he was getting the fiber grain coming up ,

after a lot experimenting I found that a white shellac brush-on BIN works wonders with little or no soak in . And no raising of any fiber at all .

I did have a set-back when appling the top coats seem the "Hammered Look" paint is really hot & Crazes very easy .

so I'm on 4 coats now lite sanding in between (180 grit) & letting the paint cure a week before appling a new coat

24hr cure & the hottness of the paint's solvent causes the crazing

they now have a hard as a rock finish & look quite nice . am buiding out the top hats this weekend

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the 750-16 had better numbers , bigger magnets , 16 oHm , higher sensitivity

ALK said that it was better on paper.....I did have a set-back when appling the top coats seem the "Hammered Look" paint is really hot & Crazes very easy .

so I'm on 4 coats now lite sanding in between (180 grit) & letting the paint cure a week before appling a new coat

24hr cure & the hottness of the paint's solvent causes the crazing....

The 750 gets a bit pricey for my budget. For me, it will have to be either the Faital 140 or B&C 85, whichever one I can find at a better price when I am ready for drivers later this year.

Your hammered finish is exactly where I wanted to go with mine. A few years back, I did a speaker project with metal corners, and I had a powder coater do a bronze colored hammer tone type of finish on them and they really look cool. Good to know there are spray can products I can use on wood-like surfaces that can create a similar look.

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