sealing khorn to corner

[sasqwatch]

I understand the use of split pipe insulation works well I would be curious as to how you affix it to the k horn I really dont want to use screws I thought about Velcro or two sided tape .just wondering what you have tried and what worked the best thanks again for any help Stacy

[JJkizak]

You have to cut the rear board to fit over the baseboard trim then install the 3/4" split pipe insulation. You don't need to glue it as it will stay on by itself but I glued mine on anyway.

JJK

[Daddy Dee]

can't remember what adhesive i used, but it didn't take much and that was just on the ends. i think two sided tape at key points would be quite satisfactory.

[WMcD]

I installed it on my friend's SKs years ago.

Some at HD came with adhesive in the mouth of the C and had a protective peel off stip, like a Band-Aid backing.

My goal was to get the maximum cushy distance because the wall was not exactly true. So I placed the adhesive area right at the edge top and bottom surface of the plywood.

I wasn't happy with that entirely, IIRC. So I put a strip of rectangular cross-section foam on the endgrain of the ply and then put the split insulation over it. Sort of filling in the hollow the C of the insulation to maximize the resiliance travel.

If you have to glue, rubber cement should work (Sometimes called contact cement. It is in the little brown bottles with a brush in the cap at HD.)

I also bought a spare lenght of the pipe insulation to fool around with cutting the angles at intersections. It pays to make a prototype Actually, I often have to do things twice to get it right; so I call the first one a prototype rather than a mistake. Smile.

WMcD

[Don Richard]

I used staples near the split portion of the insulation..

[sasqwatch]

I installed it on my friend's SKs years ago.

Some at HD came with adhesive in the mouth of the C and had a protective peel off stip, like a Band-Aid backing.

My goal was to get the maximum cushy distance because the wall was not exactly true. So I placed the adhesive area right at the edge top and bottom surface of the plywood.

I wasn't happy with that entirely, IIRC. So I put a strip of rectangular cross-section foam on the endgrain of the ply and then put the split insulation over it. Sort of filling in the hollow the C of the insulation to maximize the resiliance travel.

If you have to glue, rubber cement should work (Sometimes called contact cement. It is in the little brown bottles with a brush in the cap at HD.)

I also bought a spare lenght of the pipe insulation to fool around with cutting the angles at intersections. It pays to make a prototype Actually, I often have to do things twice to get it right; so I call the first one a prototype rather than a mistake. Smile.

WMcD

thanks everyone for the great advice I believe ill try without any hour if it does not stay on I will glue it .I love your take on prototype William my friends say um a perfectionist so I to usually require a prototype .

[ricktate]

Do not need to put anything to hold it on pipe insulation will stay on by itself then slide it back to the wall you can't even pull it off then.Rick