jtubbs6117 Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I was looking back at the klipsch console for the lack of better words dreaming. I was kinda no I was admiring Scrap’s DIY sub build and it started me thinking. Could you pay tribute to the console and merge the DIY sub? So this idea started to come to life on a lot of paper with all the questions I am sure you have all had. Front mounted drivers? Bottom mounted drivers? Ported ? sealed? So I am going to toss out the idea I have thus far and would like others to comment on it. The back story I love the console….Period. .. But we all spend so much money on our amps it just seems crazy to put all your eggs in one basket. So my idea will still use your floor standing speakers and integrate the RC64 or RC7. No hard feelings to klipsch but really how many of these yacht air play systems did they think they were going to sell? A passive version would have been so cool. Sorry now to the idea. Why can’t we have 2 18’s mounted down firing from the bottom of a console in separate sealed 4 cubic feet enclosures? My idea is one on each end of the console. With av gear space on each side of the center channel and storage or more av space between the sub enclosures. There would have to be feet on the bottom if you opted to mount the 18’s on the bottom. Or some type of grill if you front mounted but right now it seems like a cool idea. Get a really awesome TV console for people that do not hang their TV on the wall. And also a great sub system without taking up any extra floor space. I would love to hear feedback and ideas to make this better or ways to proceed past just an idea. Thank you, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) That's an interesting idea. It would certainly be a monster console with 2 - 4 cu ft 18" subs built in. The console would be a minimum of 6' wide. What did you have in mind for the center channel? Perhaps if the console had a little table on the rear half of the console to sit the tv on, so you could go with one of the reference centers in front and beneath the tv. Were you also talking about including the left and right speakers in the console, or place them in satelite locations? Edited February 10, 2014 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 hate to put a turn table on that thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 I'd think that the only way this would work is to have the 2 drivers opposed to each other. Otherwise, you'll be chasing the console around the room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I'd think that the only way this would work is to have the 2 drivers opposed to each other. Otherwise, you'll be chasing the console around the room. Right. Plus the TV will be hopping about. Of course you could always weight the thing down with 500# of sand or bolt it to the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Use push -pull mounted 12s mounted in a vertical plenum (PPSL). This will cancel the reaction force so it won't walk, and cancel the distortion too. A pair of the Dayton 295-120 will tune to 27hz in a 4.5 cu ft (net) enclosure, and have as much output as an 18 will an 8mm x-max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 (edited) You would definitely need a limiter because at about 25hz, the driver excursion would pass the 8mm, and at 20hz, it would be 15mm. Also, the total watts would threshold at about 350 per isobaric pair, or 700 for the entire console. In all, the subs would definitely sound great, so long as you don't want your LFE to be at all below 25hz. Isobaric Dayton ST305-8's Box 4.0 cu ft per console end vent port 1.25" X 22 wide, and 20" deep Edited February 11, 2014 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 With filters in place and limiting wattage to 275 watts, you will stay below cone excursion limits and be dead flat from 30hz up, and a low limit of 26hz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Vented with a Q=2 HP filter at 27hz is what I had in mind, about 6dB more output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 The chart reflects 275 watts rather than the rated max 1100 per pair of drivers. At anything above 275 watts per pair, I was at the limit of cone excursion at ~38hz. At rated 1100 watts, the cones will be at double their max excursion (16mm). That is where the 6db went to. The 4th order butterworth HP filter at 25 hz was the ideal frequency I could get it to cross at with a box tuned to ~27.15hz. It is interesting that the drivers in this setup are actually happy at exactly 1/4th the maximum wattage. Is it the push/pull alignment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Yes push-pull vented with a slot is what I had in mind (PPSL). BassBox v6.0 says it will handle 550W without issue. The Muse 18 was very highly regarded in Stereophile (and other) magazines. It used a pair of Peerless 83727 10's (NLA) down firing through a slot, but was not push-pull. Going push-pull makes it sound like a servo-controlled subwoofer, very different, very low distortion.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 It may just be a bug in WinISD. I have run across many. In any event, that is where your 6db went! Crank it up to 1100 watts (550 x 2), and it maxes out +6db. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Ok, we've got the sub lined out but how high will it play, what mid is going in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 jtubs dropped of the edge of the Earth. Oh well... I thought it was a good idea! What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtubbs6117 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 LOL no sir not off the edge just close. Well I think it great. I am was thinking about several mods to the idea the other night. A dual sub using two drivers 12's ported? A single 18's fmounted on the back of the cab? Or how about 4 10inch along the orginal idea firing toward the floor? Now continuing with the orginal idea just using the console as the sub enclosure and TV stand. Floorstanding speaker will still need to be used. This idea came from thinking how could we reduce the amount of space or footprint we use for our systems? Ok here is another this is something I have only read about but still find very interesting. Could you build a horn or tuba sub that would or could be used as the TV cosole? That seems like a better idea. Gentleman thank you. Keep this going Who knows we might think of something really cool or just figure out we took the long way back to where we are. But it's really about the journey. Thanks guys!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtubbs6117 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 members and peope that use their subs or make the reference as an end table has always made me think. Hmmm why can't we? There are all types of items that are made to look like other things. Now are sub beautiful? LOL yes carl has one of the coolest setups I have ever seen. But how can we make the sub which in fact is needed in HT or to fully enjoy must music hide itself? I guess how can you make the console a swiss army knife? What orther than you sub takes up the most room with your setup? In my case it's my TV stand, as I looked there is an incredible amount of wasted space everywhere. That's what started this. Thank you gentlemen all responses are appriecated. Now trying to think outside the box has use thinking about building another box...LOL... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtubbs6117 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Mustang that drawing is awesome that was the idea!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtubbs6117 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Carl your reference the push pull type would be like the M&K Mx series subs? I think they used a push pull config. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Actually I wasn't thinking push pull, that was djk's idea. I was thinking sealed opposed. The best hidden subs are IB's with grill covers IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 i can tell you right now my subs don't move at all. you could set anything on top of them and it would be just fine. there is no way i would go to the trouble of building this thing and not going with at least two 15's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.