mjlock Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) I have both a pair of RF 3's and RF 3 II's. What is the difference besides the z-series monster cable that made them raise the cost from $800 in the RF 3 to $1000 in the RF 3 II's? And why did the continuous watts go from 225 in the RF3 to 150 in the RF 3 II's to boot? I have called and emailed Klipsch customer support to get answers to these questions. They have yet to respond to my email (more than 3 days now) and when I called, they told me the specs on my RF 3 was 150 watts. Sure enough, I look at the Klipsch website and it says 150 watts for both the RF 3 and RF 3 II's. Only the back of my RF3 says 225 watts. WTF? Do I have some rare error edition speaker or what? Anybody else notice these things after 14 years? If I were to sell one pair, which one sells for more? Edited February 28, 2014 by mjlock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2point1 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 150 watt "continuous" is different than" Max Input 225 watt" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Just a guess, maybe the xo point of the HF driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjlock Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 My RF 3 II says the max input power is 150 watts and my RF 3 says the max input power is 225 watts. Both have a peak power of 600 watts. I found a manual on the internet for both of these speakers so those figures are presumed true. I do not know what the xo point of the HF driver is. Being how expensive Monster cables are, I am guessing that is what made the RF 3 ii's price go up. To me, the RF 3's seem like the better speaker on paper but side by side, I can not tell the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 (edited) I would imagine that the RF3 ll has a steeper crossover section on the tweeter and so the speaker overall will take more power safely. Bit of a moot point though my good friend Denny Barnes (rest his soul) had a pair of RF3 and drove them with an Audion Sterling which is an EL34 SET and the results were superb with lots of available level, 12 watts a channel. Stunning combination. This was the speaker which made me look seriously at Klipsch after decades of wondering. Best regards Moray James. PS: I have not compared the RF3 to the RF3 ll so perhaps others who have will comment. PPS: I think that I should have added that imy experience with Klipsch Rev 2 speakers has be very positive. I did not intend to leave the impression that the Rev 2 was probably not better than the RF3 because it likely is a little better. I only wanted to express that the RF3 matched with good electronics is a fine sounding loudspeaker and that all Klipsch that I have owned respond very well to modification if that is where you want to go. Edited March 8, 2014 by moray james Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjai18 Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Hmm, I'd love an answer to this as well. Was the crossover different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The History Kid Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Actually, you already know the difference between the 3 and the 3 II. Besides the new feet and the Z series wiring, there is no difference. Same drivers, same horn, same crossover, same building material, same crossover point. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSpeakerDude Posted December 21, 2019 Share Posted December 21, 2019 Interesting only because it is now December 2019 and I have been very fortunate to find both an RF3 and RF3 II set of beautifully kept speakers. I still love my Cerwin Vega RE38's and also a set of RE30's, they all sound great with different types of music. I also found a KSW15 which is probably one of the most awesome sub-woofers in this pricepoint. I don't plan on pushing more than 150 watts but if I do, I'll never exceed a volume level where the speakers start distorting, I think that's when you know you're going to damage a speaker system, correct me if I'm wrong please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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