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Crites CS-1


Dr Morbius

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Hi, I recently purchased a pair of Crites CS-1 (modified Heresy speakers) from a guy that advertised in US Audio Mart. I should be getting them in a few days. I got them for my son who is living in a small condo and I think the size of them are better suited than a pair of Cornscala's that I originally wanted to get. {he loves mine!}

They look pretty good in the pictures but the proof is in the pudding, or having them in my hands. He says they sound more lively than the standard Heresy's so I was wondering if anyone heard these babies themselves, or another pair, as there were a few (more than a few?) made.

I plan on powering them with a Scott 299D that Craig of NOS Valves has breathed on. I hope they will sound better with the Scott than a solid state amp.

Soooo, has anyone listened to a pair of CS-1's?????

Thanks for any info,

Steve

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Ive built 3 pairs... really solid speaker... got pics? I think you'll fall in love with them!

Was it these? http://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649062781-klipschinspired_bob_crites_cs1_high_efficiency_horn_speakers/

If so... I built them and can share a lot about them.

WOW...Them are gorgeous! If so yes those will sound prevalent indeed!

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I did the work 3-4 years ago. I believe he paired with an AudioNote EL84 15watt integrated.

The c abs are 1.5” thick and are a complete bear… small package lots weight… I don’t think you’ll find a finer example of them. I would strongly suggest adding pollyfill. I used acoustic foam, but did not add the pollyfill. I now know better J.

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Justin,

I know they aren't, but if the cabs were ported would I still need polyfill? My Cornscala's are ported (on the bottom) and don't have any polyfill but they do have a cotton filled liner on the walls and back cover. I wonder if it would help to put some polyfill in there too? Or is that overkill? :blush:

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what you damp wit is determined by what frequency you want to damp. Do some research you will find out. If you want to damp the lowest frequencies possible (under 100 Hz) nothing is better than high density fiberglass such as the 700 series from Owens Corning. Compared to this poly fill is next to useless. Best regards Moray James.

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We will have to disagree. I hate the pink stuff... Fugly to work with. Polyfil and testing different amounts has been a proven tool for me... again... your speaker... try different suggestions and see what your ears prefer. The speaker already has some very good treatments, though there is a lot of room for improvement. Porting is a bad idea... Its based on heresy. If wanting to port, you'd have to research (use bass box pro or other tools) to fig whats the correct port size or length. You would likely pickup a bass hump (extra bass output if ported). I like the even bass response it has.

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Ok then, no porting - but I have bought some polyfill that I will add to the modded Heresies, after I first listen to them without. Also have to figure out how much to add (hmmm!).

Justin, in the pictures I don't see any decals on the rear of the speakers so I guess there's no serial numbers. Do you have any idea how old they are?

Steve

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Porting is a bad idea... Its based on heresy. If wanting to port, you'd have to research (use bass box pro or other tools) to fig whats the correct port size or length. You would likely pickup a bass hump (extra bass output if ported).

We all have are preferences, but you can determine the low end roll-off of a ported cabinet (F3?) with a signal generator and a AC voltmeter...you can also determine the free air roll-off of a cone driver with this approach. It'll get you close.

If there is a bass hump using a ported reflex cabinet, you can adjust the port tuning using the signal generator and monitoring sine waves on the AC voltmeter. Usually, the will be two peaks with the needle on the meter, with a null in between...(I think) the null is the frequency where the port is tuned at. Adjusting the port by shortening, (not sure about lengthening) may or may not lower the peaks and possibly null the bass hump a bit.

It's been awhile, and I need scrounge up the notes and reread them, so I may be in error somewhat...but it can be done.

Polyfil works in a resistive manner and sorta fakes the driver into being in a larger enclosure. It also can help with a cabinet that has a ringy bass to it, and dampen the ringing. I can't remember the amount of polyfil per foot volume, but the trick I was taught is to add some polyfil, and tap on the driver. If the driver has a boomy ring about it, add a bit more polyfil. When tap is reduced from a boomy thump, to more of a damped thump, you are good. You don't want to put too much in...trust me, it'll make the woofer sound dead. Kind of a do it by ear preference sort of thing, but I've had good results.

Edited by mike stehr
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***Polyfil works in a resistive manner and sorta fakes the driver into being in a larger enclosure. It also can help with a cabinet that has a ringy bass to it, and dampen the ringing. I can't remember the amount of polyfil per foot volume, but the trick I was taught is to add some polyfil, and tap on the driver. If the driver has a boomy ring about it, add a bit more polyfil. When tap is reduced from a boomy thump, to more of a damped thump, you are good. You don't want to put too much in...trust me, it'll make the woofer sound dead. Kind of a do it by ear preference sort of thing, but I've had good results.***

This sounds like a great idea, as soon as I get them I'll try it and let everyone know how it came out. :emotion-55:

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