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I burned both tweeters of RF7 MkII


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To pry that bezel up try plastic cooking spatula it will spread the pressure out so you do not crack the bezel. Probably held on with sticky tape as above forum member suggested. Let us know how it goes I know I seen factory video of them putting in tweeter some where just can not find it. Rick

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Guest Steven1963

I'm not savvy with electrical equipment but isn't there a way you could put a meter on the wires going to the tweeter to check voltage before you pull out the tweeters and possibly damages them?

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Yes with an OHM meter but still need to un hook from crossover to check them. Never seen rf7 in person I just trying to help from what I seen on forum over the years. I not sure why factory workers can not help on forum maybe they been told they can not. That curved bezel is probably there to hide the screws. Rick

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It also looks like you could take woofer out and check the wires and the OHMs on the tweeter. Looks easier than to take whole tweeter out to me also check make sure wires are secure. Not sure why others have not helped on this. If you can get OHM meter that would confirm bad or good tweeter for sure.Rick

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To pry that bezel up try plastic cooking spatula it will spread the pressure out so you do not crack the bezel. Probably held on with sticky tape as above forum member suggested. Let us know how it goes I know I seen factory video of them putting in tweeter some where just can not find it. Rick

And what if it cracks or splits? IF he manages to get the bezel off without destroying it, there is some very strong double sided tape underneath, covering the screws. This is why Youthman and me decided a different approach to crossover removal.

Remove the top woofer. The compression driver will be visible. Maybe it's screwed on to the back of the horn, and it can just be twisted off. If it's bolt on, things will be more difficult -- but I really don't think the intent is to go through the front.

Gil's advice was best -- call Klipsch -- which you're going to have to do anyways to get the diaphragms.

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I tried, but relying on the front with a spatula you are likely to break everything. Really a bad idea to fix the horn in this way.

Also removing the woofer at the top does not access the screws of the driver. I am really disappointed.

Edited by Kevin Garret
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The wires are still on the tweeter and the coil is interrupted. Are to be changed, but I can not remove them.

I don't understand what you mean by, "the coil is interrupted."

If you removed the top woofer, the driver should clearly be visible and accessible. The driver must be removed to change the diaphragm. So, looking at the driver, it appears you see the wires, which means you should be able able to see whether or not the drive is bolted to the horn or not.

The great majority of Audio stores are not equipped with service departments, and I can't believe Klipsch would expect the speakers to be shipped back for warranty service.

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It doesn't look like a bolt-on type. That means the driver is a screw-on type.

I didn't mean unscrew the small screws, I meant unscrew the entire driver from the horn. They are two separate pieces.

Disconnect the wires, then unscrew the driver (turning counter clockwise).

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