justinsweber Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Im considering building a set of reproduction push-push amps. I’ve narrowed my choice to 2 options… Dynaco MK3 and Dyanco MKIV. The MKIII would use the new Triode chassis with IEC and PCB based power supply. Ive used it before and really liked. Front end will be DIYtube Poseidon PCB, power supply with be C.Chong. I will bypass the AC balance on the Poseidon and get ride of the silicone for the CCS thus running a more traditional setup. (Iron will be from Triode). This setup is a perfect modern version of the orig but lacks the looks of the orig in some ways. KT88 for 60watts. The MKiV will use dynakit parts chassis, Front end will be DIYtube Poseidon PCB, power supply will be a can cap as the chassis is old school classic reproduction. Same mods to the Poseidon front end. This version has all the great looks but the cord is captive, speaker connectors are old school and uses a can cap. That said… it looks retro. 40watts of 6CA7 goodness. As non of my projects have stayed with me forever… I want to know which idea seems more desirable for a resale stand point? Id love some feedback. Thank you, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joessportster Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 mark 3, 60 wpc would be my suggestion I know some people looking to get higher power tubes, and we always discuss 60 and up wpc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 The MKiV just looks cooler. I agree the MK3 is the powerhouse. With the front end Im planing... it will be 12AX7/12BH7 Kt88. No AC val, no Silcone... all tubes/caps/and resistors. Will prob do a triode switch too. But the MKiV look cooool just old school, way less convent to hookup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) The Mark IV does look cool, i've thought that myself for some time. However, i think the Mark III would be better for resale having a (IMO) larger fan base. I used to have a pair of Will Vincent Mark III's and sorry i ever sold them. Edited July 15, 2014 by Daddy Dee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube fanatic Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I will bypass the AC balance on the Poseidon Justin, why would you want to eliminate the AC balance feature? I presume you're referring to the phase inverter, and being able to balance it is so important that imho it should be of paramount importance. Maynard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 OK... Ive rewritten my post 3 times... I hate copy paste... 1 The AC bal is for the bias to the power tubes. Shannon believes I can omit without issue. My idea is to remove the CCS and replace with a resistor... again endorsed by Shannon. Making it super simple... I bias pot, 1 set of test points. Will prob mount all components downward and get FPE to cut a plate for the PCB as a cover... Making for a cleaner look. This pair wasn't to be sold... I built a pair like this and sold off to get my Mcintosh C220... So Im kinda coming home. I really like the Poseiden PCB and the C. Chong cap board. The Cap board is tailored to fit the Triode chassis. Mr. Chong lives close, so years ago I brought him the chassis and week later we got a PCB that fits like a glove. Basics on the build are ~750 each without case. I can share sources for all parts to anyone needing. To build/sell would prob be $2100 with tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 I have always love Mk3's. I may need to borrow those for several years. Nice work, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Thanks Dave.... The pics are of my old pair... Im going to build very similar but add a cover plate for the driver PCB and remove the AC balance. Should yield better user exp/easier to maintain without loss of performance. When do Ill bring for a road test. Now if I can pry the F5 form you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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