CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 My latest build: Before I get started, I'd like to thank Derrick, without whom this project would not have been possible. He had an Epic Legend sub with a bad amp. He sold me the drivers for the cost of shipping to which I'm very grateful. To those drivers I added a BASH 500 watt plate amp that I had originally used with my dual driver Table Ttuba. The breakdown on expense is $40.00 shipping for the drivers and $129.00 for a BASH 300 watt amp to get my Table Tuba up and running again. The 500 watter was way more than it needed anyway. I had MDF laying around that my son bought for the sub that went in his truck. All the Duratex and primer was left over also. Lets see what you can do with a bunch of used/left over parts. I used the exterior dimensions of the Legend for my starting point. Here's the panels cut and routed. I almost forgot, this sub will be a Christmas present for my son. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Attaching the first side. Note, I believe all pictures can be clicked to enlarge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Second side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Bracing. There's going to be a lot going on inside this box once you crank it. Two sealed 12's will create a lot of pressure/vacuum. All my braces will be MDF along with the entire box. If you end drill small pieces of MDF, be sure you clamp before you drill or you'll split it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 The amp side will be the weakest side due to the fact that you can't brace the back of the amp and the fact that the amp takes up most of that side. The only thing I could think of to make it structurally sound was to build a frame around the amp opening and brace the frame to the other side. At this point I needed to stop and figure where all the other braces needed to go as once these were in, they weren't coming out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Next set of braces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Major FUBAR here. I was REALLY concerned with my brace to driver clearance and wanted everything to fit properly. In my haste, I assembled the sides in the wrong order than what I had planned. You never want your last side to have to slide into the assembly end, rather sit flat on top. The second driver panel should have been the last one on. Oh well........................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eth2 Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 I can already feel the rumble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Looks like the drivers might just fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 I can already feel the rumble I can too! Oh wait, that's just my stomach from my "procedure" this morning. LOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Amp side view. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Together, flush cut and rounded edges. Bondo on. The holes on the panel on the right are for the feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 on ported enclosures there is always concern with cabinet volume and how changes even as benign as horn size can have an effect. with all of that bracing, is that factor not a concern in ported designs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Grey primer as I didn't have black. Primer isn't really necessary but it allows me to see any imperfections and correct them before I go on. It actually looked decent so I moved to black latex next. I didn't have a lit of Duratex left over so I wanted a black base in case any pin holes appeared, plus, I had some paint on the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 In black latex. I also wanted the recesses black but didn't want the thickness or irregular finish of Duratex on any of the sealing surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Final coat of Duratex. I didn't want a real rough finish on this so after I rolled it with the sponge brush I went over it with a short nap roller when it was still wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Fiberglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Looks like the drivers might fit after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Amp is in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 All ready to be wrapped up and put under the tree. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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