Paducah Home Theater Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) An inuke 6000 on two typical 15's is a little overkill. That amp is all my two 18" Ultimax's want even in sealed boxes. As for sealed vs. Ported it kind of depends on your goals. Ported boxes will spank a sealed box a little above and down to the tuning frequency but lower than that it cancels itself out and flops around like a fish out of water, no control to the excursion plus makes little to no sound. But yeah the boxes are bigger when comparing apples to apples. Edited January 11, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdave Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 I don't think the bass would be a problem with an upstairs MBR. I'm sure the house is well built, plus a little bass while in the shower could be a good thing My wifey likes! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Don't worry about your shower. I have a ten foot wide picture window in the room above my theater and all it does is rattle. Nothing to worry about. The amp choice really boils down to which drivers you get. As a 6000 can only run 4 ohm stereo. But the 3000 can run 2 ohm stable. So if you get two 18" ultimax in sealed boxes if get the 6000 to make sure they have enough on tap as they are dual 2 ohm subs which give you a 4 ohm load per side. I think the dayton HO are single 4 ohm. So same thing with them. If you went with stereo integrity drivers they require less power and can be bought in dual 4 ohm which can be wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load. A pair of those and the inuke 3000dsp would be your cheapest option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) a 6000 can only run 4 ohm stereo. But the 3000 can run 2 ohm stable. Anybody considering a 6000 vs. 3000 needs to realize that a 6000 is just two 3000's butted together with each forced to run in bridged mono mode. That 6000 is actually seeing 2 ohms with a 4 ohm load per side since it is bridged behind the scenes. A 6000 into 4 ohms stereo is literally over twice the power than a 3000 into 2 ohms stereo. if you get two 18" ultimax in sealed boxes if get the 6000 to make sure they have enough on tap Oh it does. These two products seem to be a good match if you are only running two subs. Doesn't work out so well if you want to run four. Edited January 12, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdave Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 These are the (2) 18" subwoofer packages that I'm interested in: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7099 and http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-reference-series-ho-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7094 My plan is to use (2) 18" subs inside the av/ network room. Is either better/ preferred than the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdave Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) Posted twice?? Edited January 12, 2015 by Superdave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) These are the (2) 18" subwoofer packages that I'm interested in: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7099 and http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-reference-series-ho-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7094 My plan is to use (2) 18" subs inside the av/ network room. Is either better/ preferred than the other? For an iNuke 6000 and movies you're going to want the UltiMax. UltiMax's have about twice the xMax and I've still bottomed them out before. You'd destroy two Reference 18's with a 6000 with no limiters set, I flex mine all the time more than could be handled with only 12.75mm xmax. That box is a little bit small for the ultimax but you may not be able to tell the difference. Ultimax's also have a lower resonant frequency. I think they take quite a while to break in, they are really stiff at first and I think they sound muffled in the upper frequencies. After awhile mine opened up but I was disappointed at first. Just play the snot out of them for awhile and they start sounding better for music. Edited January 12, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 These are the (2) 18" subwoofer packages that I'm interested in: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7099 and http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-reference-series-ho-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7094 My plan is to use (2) 18" subs inside the av/ network room. Is either better/ preferred than the other? the specs on the HO are not correct. i have read all over the place that they are too low. the driver has much more xmax than it says. but don't worry about that. id get either or. both will be good. with a 4 ohm load on either you will want the inuke 6000 no matter what. if you can build your own enclosures, you could save a lot of money by going with the SI's. they are 159 each with free shipping this month. plus you then can build the box to whatever size you need exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I thought the ultimax look was interesting but I'm already tired of it, just wish I had a traditional black finish. Personally I like the look of the reference better. The ultimax doesn't go that well with black, its a weird shade of gray with a bit of brown mixed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) the specs on the HO are not correct. i have read all over the place that they are too low. the driver has much more xmax than it says. but don't worry about that. xMax <> xMech. xMech is rarely published though. xMax is a pretty straightforward measurement of how much it can flex with the voice coil staying inside of the magnetic gap, it doesn't really show how much it can flex in general. Most any speaker can flex more than the xMax but you get distortion. Sooner or later you're going to slap a top plate or meet the limits of the suspension, which is xMech. Ideally you shouldn't be pushing them much beyond the xMax, you're literally throwing the voice coil out of the magnetic gap at that point which does not give a linear response. So yeah if you plan to really stroke some subs and one has nearly twice the xMax and a significantly lower resonant frequency for $30 more, personally I'd go with that one. Edited January 12, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) if you go to databass.com you will see that the dayton HO and the stereo integrity ht-18 are very similar with the SI having more output across the board. at a much cheaper price as well as free shipping and having wiring options i would absolutely recommend them and a inuke 3000dsp. Edited January 12, 2015 by Scrappydue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) I just want that Stereo Integrity 24". My goodness. I want two of them right up front. Edited January 12, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) http://forum.speakerplans.com/finding-xmax_topic64885.htmlInteresting scope output and explanation of measuring and what happens beyond xMax. I didn't think it was or could be measured like that. Edited January 12, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdave Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 (edited) Your talking a bit above my pay scale technically, lol. So, which one would you pick? I'm learning towards the SI HT18 Edit: I will probably have to go with a sealed box type due to the fact that the overall size of the enclosure will be the determining factor just to get into the hatch opening. Edited January 13, 2015 by Superdave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Your talking a bit above my pay scale technically, lol. So, which one would you pick? I'm learning towards the SI HT18 Edit: I will probably have to go with a sealed box type due to the fact that the overall size of the enclosure will be the determining factor just to get into the hatch opening. If small box size is your goal, UltiMax's are about the worst possible choice among common subs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 get the SI's! they are good trust me i own 4 of them. had svs pb-13 ultras before and these are neck and neck in sound quality Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdave Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Ok, just to narrow it down: (2) Stereo Integrity Drivers - HT18 18″ SUBWOOFERs (Sealed Boxes). Might use the pre-built boxes from PE. Would the iNuke 6000dsp be too much for these speakers? If so, should I use the 3000dsp? I assume that I would also need to order the proper dvc ohmage(if such a word exist) depending on amplifier choice... Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Ok. Would it be too much? No you can set wattage limiters. One good thing is it would allow you to add two more if you ever wanted to down the road. Maybe you'll love them and sell the sunfires a year from now and want two 18's in the rear. You'll have the power you need. The 3000 will for sure run two of them. You will need the dual 4 ohms to get the 2 ohm load you need. Get the dual 4 ohm also if you go the route of the 6000 as you can run singles at 8 ohm per side and the amp will have plenty of power. Then if you ever add two more you will re wire them at 2 ohms per woofer and put them in series for two woofer on each channel at 4 ohms. Same setup as me. So one saves you money if you are 100 percent positive two will be it. Ever! Other option allows future expansion. I'd go with the 6000. And of you didn't already know it needs to be the dsp model. Inuke 6000dsp. Should cost you 399 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 If you're up for a road trip, I'd almost sell my two UltiMax's, I'm like 6 hours away but go to Nashville sometimes, or come demo them. I've got other stuff you might be interested in as well. Dimensions are about 20x20x30, which is about the smallest footprint you can get for an 18 if you set them up on their end like I designed them to do. Have a couple of the reference 15's to compare against. Been wanting to have a row of four 18's wrapped in velvet across my front wall under the screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdave Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Thank you for the offer but I'm going with the SI's and hopefully in the near future add 2 more. I'll post some build pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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