expresso Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 - i have a question - on the Forte II - the tweeter is the K 75 K ? are there any other models that are the same tweeter ? i seen some on Ebay but they said its K 76 K - they look excalty the same - but not sure if something is different that would not make it fit in the forte II model ? they look the same as the KG 3.2 i had also - and the new heresy - is that the same tweeter also ? would i be able to purchase them new from Klipsch and use them in the forte II ? and the midrange is K 61 i think - what does anyone do if they need to replace that midrange horn ? i never seen them for sale before - also another thing i am confused about - the speaker posts say 8ohm - so the active drivers are 8 ohm ? reason i ask is - i seen replacement drivers - and some can be 8ohm and some say 4 ohm - even bobs replacement drivers say 4 ohm - if i had to replace my drives in the future - which do i get ? and can you use a 4 ohm driver instead if its 8ohm stock ? this is the same for my KG 3.2 - i find replacement drives on Ebay for them - and both in 4 ohm and 8 ohm - - which would be the correct driver ohm for those also - and what happens if you did use a 4 ohm driver instead of a 8ohm i understand the 4 ohm pulls more from the amp - but other than that - would it work - sound better - worse - different ? not work ? does the x overs need to be changed or left alone as is - they both have bobs xover in them - one more thing - the wood screws used on these speakers - for all the drives - tweeter , midrange - active - passive etc, - if i wanted to change them all to new ones - is there a correct kit of screws for them that i can purchase ? i did notice some of my screws longer and penetrate the wood all the way - not sure if thats how they were from factory or the screws are too long ? any one have any idea of the size of the screws needed - i am not looking to remove them for no reason now - but if i had to - i would use some wood filler wood glue and then use the newer shorter screws in there place - but not sure if they would hold as good either - i used gasket sealer tape on the inside when i opened them to change the x over etc, - and everything is fine - i am not concerned if left alone now - but in the future - if i have to open it for any reason - i may want to do it differently - they sound great - i wonder how long does an active driver last more or less - i mean its 26 years old - sounds great - looks great - but does it loose some punch or anything over time ? of they just work till they dont and then change them out ? what benefit can you get if you just changed out the front 12 driver for a new one - lets say from bobs - if its working fine now - would you gain something ? thanks - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 The Forte II should have 8 ohm tweeters, 16 ohm mid drivers and 4 ohm woofers. A lot of the speakers mid '80's through 2001? used the same horn lens for the tweeter but different magnet structures / drivers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expresso Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 ok - so a replacement woofer should be 4 ohm then - why does the rear posts show 8 ohms - - confusing when its time to replace - so the horn lens which screws on the cabinet - is the same - just different magnet - drivers - but would work if needed - as long as the horn is the same that screws in the cabinet - they all look the same - and magnet also - what difference would the magnet difference make ? would the same diaphram fit in between magnet and horn ? just curious to know - if have ever need a pair - if i can use other models or just have to get the K 75 K for any reason i wont know - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 The 8 ohm rating listed on the speaker is basically an average sum of all the drivers wired together at the crossover. You want to keep the same size magnet in your tweeters. Generally speaking, the larger the magnet the more sensitive and powerful it is, changing the size can make your tweeter too loud or too quiet. As far as I know the k-75, k-79 and the k-792 use the same magnet with the 792 using a Tractrix horn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expresso Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 ok thanks - good to know - do you think the K 76 k is not the same ? the look is so close that i see no difference - i found an academy model tweeter and yes that model the magnet is different - everything else same just magnet - the forte II uses a Tractrix horn for the tweeter ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expresso Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 the mid horn on the forte II - is there an aftermarket replacement by any chance - i found one on ebay - its not a replacement - but does look like it would fit - 7 x 10 size horn but says horn tweeter - i was just looking because the size looks similar - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 The k-76 is a smaller, less sensitive tweeter and will likely be noticeable quieter than the stock k-75 tweeter. These tweeter horn lenses are exponential, the k-61 mid like in your Forte II is the Tractrix style. Here's a picture comparing mid horns, the k-701 exponential in the H-III (smaller speaker) and the Tractrix in the Chorus II (same as the Forte II.) The difference is the same on the tweeters just a smaller scale. Both tweeters in the picture are Tractrix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expresso Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 yes i see the difference - with the mid horns - the tweeters are tricky - they all look the same or very close - i guess no unless you know and see them side by side - or check the magnet would i know - i just checked the pics from the KG 3.2 and its a K 84 K - but looks 100% the same - and i am sure would fit - but like you said - the magnet makes a difference - so bottom line is - best to stick with the model you have - in the event you needed to change them - in my case - best would be K 75 and K 61 for the Mid - which i never seen before - to buy a replacement etc, - i wonder if anyone has ever had to replace one with a different model brand - wont be the same i am sure - but at least make it fit in the front i though for a moment - i can order a new one for the H III = and would be fine - - i looked up that other one K 792 - its from the pro model speaker - its still in production - would it be safe to say i can call them and ask for a replacement for that model ? and have for my forte II - wonder what it will cost - since pro models always seem to cost alot more - if thats correct - that would be a good way choice to get new complete drivers with the H III mid horn - that looks to be same as the Forte I horns etc, - which is great for anyone with Forte I models - but the Mid on the Forte II - i dont see anything on that for a replacement - maybe the pro models - they do have a Mid horn which looks to be close in size shape etc, - i wonder if those would work for the forte II models if ever needed - KI 362 model speaker - i see the holes dont match - but the size looks close - i wonder if that can be used if needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expresso Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 i just noticed the K 76 horn was taken from the Quartet model - which i though was the same horns as the forte II and chorus II - i could swear the magnet is the same size on it as the forte II for the tweeter - i am not concerned about the diaphragm - just the horn magnet etc, complete unit - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 The k-76 is used in the Quartet and Heresy II, and a few others. The k-75 is Forte and the k-79 is for the Chorus. All use the same plastic, exponential horn lens. The Forte and the Chorus use the same size magnet as well but the difference is they add Ferro fluid to the k-79 for greater power handling. All three of these models use the exact same diaphragm. I have a couple pairs of k-62 mid horn / driver assemblies I picked up used on eBay awhile, from what I can tell they are identical to the k-61. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 My post on the input impedance of the Forte II may be of help. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/152520-impedance-klipsch-forte-ii/?hl=%2Bimpedance+%2Bof+%2Bforte This is certainly more accurate than putting a single number on the impedance. I believe it is safe to say that the tweeter is between 8 and 10 ohms. My educated guess is that there were several very similar tweeters made by Klipsch using the same horn and diaphragm and voice coil. However, they needed different sensitivities. This variation in sensitivity was accomplished by using different magnets or different pole pieces (the metal piece in the magnet structure). At least that is what I suspect. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 As I stated above, many of the Klipsch speakers from about mid '80's to early '00's used that same tweeter horn lens, KG models, Tangent models, Heresy II's and I'm sure a bunch of pro cabinets used them as well. Most of the diaphragms are interchangeable, its the magnets you need to watch for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expresso Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 The k-76 is used in the Quartet and Heresy II, and a few others. The k-75 is Forte and the k-79 is for the Chorus. All use the same plastic, exponential horn lens. The Forte and the Chorus use the same size magnet as well but the difference is they add Ferro fluid to the k-79 for greater power handling. All three of these models use the exact same diaphragm. I have a couple pairs of k-62 mid horn / driver assemblies I picked up used on eBay awhile, from what I can tell they are identical to the k-61. ok so i could use anyone of those models for my forte II - and would be the same horn etc, - just maybe different magnets on some - which may affect sound for better or worse - i guess - well at least this gives me some more options - lets say i find a pair of K 76 - - i wont purchase one in case i need to use them - i would change them both to keep it even - about the K 62 Mid horn - is that the whole horn itself or just the magnet etc, attached to the horn - i was curious to see if any are around that can be used to replace the Mid horn from the Forte II model - i am using the K 53 Ti and its fine but what if the horn itself is needed - it looks like we are out of luck there - i know what are the chances someone would need one - but you never know - its one of those things i just dont see i may be interested in a pair of K 75 - magnet etc, complete if i find some at a decent price - or i would even try K 76 or the other models you stated - K 79 - those in pairs for sure - K 75 maybe one is ok since its original - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 the k76 is not as powerful as the k75 or k79 as the k76 has a much smaller magnet - I would not use a k76 in a forte 1 or 2 -you will either blow it or it will not sound as good when pushed - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expresso Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Ok - i would have not known this - thanks for all this info - to me they all looked the same or very similar - wouldnt think it make a big difference - now i know better - in the event someone cant use or dosnt have the K 75 - what would be the replacement for a forte II - would a newer model from the H III or Cornwall III - or maybe one of the pro models - would any of those be close at least and handle the power in the worst case situation ? i am just thinking ahead - since i am loving my forte II -- i would hate to have a issue of some sort and then cant find a replacement - this started when i changed my tweeter - one of them - the magnet end - you have the 3 screws sticking up - and you lower the horn on top and screw it down - well one of mines - they were not perfect straight up - i think two of them were slated some - and made it very very hard to remove the horn - but once i did that - i was not able to get it back on - i figured it out and used my dremal to open the holes on the horn side and its fine now - cant notice anything - but just made me think about it and this is the reason i been asking about it here - i wonder if others ever had to find a replacement or used different models - i never really paid that much attention to the numbers - models etc, - i always looked at the horn side of things - all looked the same - i figured it would be fine - - i was wrong and know understand it better - i am concerned even with the other drivers - i know Bob has the active driver - etc, if needed - but i never seen a replacement for the passive driver in the rear ? what does someone do if one of those go bad or gets broken etc, - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Simplyspeakers offers re-coning services and OEM replacement diaphragms, great company with excellent service. http://www.simplyspeakers.com/klipsch-speaker-repair.html Speaker Reconing Service Includes: Complete inspection of speaker frame, pole piece, back plate, magnet gap, and terminals. Clean magnetic gap. Replacement of ALL moving parts, including voice coil, spider, cone, surround, dust cap, gasket and lead wires. Full testing on completed repair. Klipsch Speaker Model: Recone Price: Klipsh Speaker Model: Recone Price: 15" - K-1548 (1548K) $75 10" - K-10-K $65 12" - K-22, K-24 $70 15" - K-33 $75 15" - K-33E (67-8706) $75 15" - K-34E $75 12" - K-42-K $70 15" - K-43-K (K43SKP) $75 15" - K-45 (EM # 14675) $75 15" - K-48-K $75 15" - KD-15, KD-16 (Passive Radiator) $50 15" - K-35-K $90 15" - KP-230 $75 12" - KP-250 $70 15" - KP-320 $75 Other Klipsch speaker models $Call Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expresso Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 whow - i missed that for some reason - i was looking over that site before - ok so you just send them your driver and they redo it to factory specs etc, and send it back - $50 isnt bad - then i have to add my shipping to them and back maybe - but still worth it if you ask me - mines look in great shape - and sound as good also - - who knows how good it can sound unless i just replace them all and thats that - but i see no reason of that now - i wonder though - how much can a driver take - before loosing its punch - if mines are original drivers front and rear - the front driver i am sure takes it the hardest - i dont notice anything wrong with it or the sound - but its 26 years old - i wonder how much better can i sound if you just replace them with new drivers - lets say from Bobs ? does this make any sense ? i am not looking to do this now - but just though about it - curious you know - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 for future reference to other reading there are no Klipsch horns which require a Dremel tool to re assemble just some patience. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expresso Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 for future reference to other reading there are no Klipsch horns which require a Dremel tool to re assemble just some patience. Best regards Moray James. under normal condtions - no you never have to use it for no reason - in my case - i had no choice - it would not go back on because the screws- bolts sticking up on the magnet which the horn sits back on and screws down were not straight - they were bent slated on two out of three of them - and there was no way i was going to get it back on - if i got two screws aligned - the other last one was not - i tried for a while before realizing its not going to happen and just widened the holes on the horn so they went back on the bolts that were slated just enough to make it difficult to put back - once i widened the holes - it went back on perfect fit - maybe i made it sound as if - the dremal was needed - NO its not needed if all is well and nothing is wrong - - just so happens one was fine and the other horn magnet was not - who knows why it was bent slated - or what happened to it in the past - never know - just my luck i happened to get one that needed work - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 just be careful with the dremel - it spins pretty fast - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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