diamonddelts Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 Hi all. I'm contemplating on purchasing a pair of Klipsch KPT-942-M. I want to know is their performance anywhere near a Jubilee? I currently own a pair of JBL 4722ns which have excellent fidelity. I don't know if this would be a possible upgrade or a lateral move. It appears I would be giving up some HF extension for a possible better midrange. Looking for opinions on the Klipsch KPT-942-M speakers. Thank you in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 (edited) I don't know if this would be a possible upgrade or a lateral move. It appears I would be giving up some HF extension for a possible better midrange. What do you value in the sound of a loudspeaker? I've heard the KPT-942-M and the KPT-942/4 with better HF compression drivers than the K-69-A, all in the same room corners as a pair of 2-way home version Jubilees. The KPT-942-M (2x15 inch woofers) had quite a bit more LF modulation distortion that was audible. The KPT-942/4 (4x15 inch woofers) had a lot of bass authority, but still had audible modulation distortion. Other guys opinions were split on the 4x15s, but it wasn't close for my ears. The Jubilee bass bins perform well in corners and lose about 1/2 octave of bass performance if placed along a wall. I've found that you can't get horn-loaded bass (neutral) sound out of direct radiators, but you can "feel the bass" with the more palpable direct radiating bass bins, i.e., you're listening to higher harmonic and modulation distortion. Your choice. I wouldn't give up my Jubs for either of those DR configurations. By the way, the DR bass bins are just as large or larger than the 2-way Jubilee bass bin with K-402 on top. You wouldn't be giving up anything on the high end. In fact, you'd be gaining better HF coverage in all likelihood...since I don't see the horizontal/vertical polar plots for the JBL 4722. I'd also talk to Roy Delgado (roy.delgado@klipsch.com) on the availability of better HF compression drivers than the base level K-69-As. JMTC. Welcome to the forum. Chris Edited July 10, 2015 by Chris A 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamonddelts Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Thank you very much for your reply Chris. I know I will prefer the folded horn bass bin however there is a sizable jump in cost going from the dual woofer of section to the folded horn LF section. I have two SI 24" subs to cover the lowend so I'm covered on the bass front. I'm mainly after the K402 horn and a passive network which the KPT 942m speakers have. I figured there mids would be a bit better than my JBL 4722n speakers. Not sure about any advantage in the HF section though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) don't know if it has been mentioned before but you might also want to look into a University Classic or Dean build. The Dean is a corner version of the Classic. Both horns are the same and they are a much easier build and capable of very solid and deep bass response with numerous reports of bass output equal to and also better (lower response), and one member owner (nico boom) who owns two sets of Khorns as well as a set of University Classics says much more powerful than the Khorn. The really nice part about the University horns is like the Jubilee they can be crossed up higher than a Khorn can so two way is an option if you want to go that way. The Classic is a top quality horn design which has stood the test of time and it is also a very economical build which might be of interest to those on a more limited budget. Best regards Moray James. PS: archives here have lots on threads on the University Horns mentioned. Edited October 29, 2015 by moray james Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 I understand, it all boils down to "pick your poison" in the trades that you make. One person's poison is another's cure. Better is better. Good luck. I hope that it meets your expectations. If there is anything which I can do to help, let me know. BTW: one way to reduce bass distortion for almost any loudspeaker is to place the them within 18 inches (45 cm) of the room corners, then EQ the bass response down to flat again. This is the technique that PWK used and was a strong proponent of--to use the room's walls and floor mirror images to reduce the drive level on the bass drivers in their lowest octave. Getting rid of near field sound reflectors--equipment racks, wall discontinuities, other speakers and furniture--within 3 to 4 feet (1 metre) of the loudspeakers will avoid early reflections in the midrange, and give you the best of both worlds in the midrange and bass without affecting midrange imaging. The K-402s are magnificent in terms of controlled directivity in this regard, controlling early midrange reflections but they still need a little help at the mouth exits: about a 2' x 2' (0.6 x 0.6 m) square absorption pad centered on the side walls next the the K-402 mouths is plenty. Imaging will go through the roof. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamonddelts Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 I understand, it all boils down to "pick your poison" in the trades that you make. One person's poison is another's cure. Better is better. Good luck. I hope that it meets your expectations. If there is anything which I can do to help, let me know. BTW: one way to reduce bass distortion for almost any loudspeaker is to place the them within 18 inches (45 cm) of the room corners, then EQ the bass response down to flat again. This is the technique that PWK used and was a strong proponent of--to use the room's walls and floor mirror images to reduce the drive level on the bass drivers in their lowest octave. Getting rid of near field sound reflectors--equipment racks, wall discontinuities, other speakers and furniture--within 3 to 4 feet (1 metre) of the loudspeakers will avoid early reflections in the midrange, and give you the best of both worlds in the midrange and bass without affecting midrange imaging. The K-402s are magnificent in terms of controlled directivity in this regard, controlling early midrange reflections but they still need a little help at the mouth exits: about a 2' x 2' (0.6 x 0.6 m) square absorption pad centered on the side walls next the the K-402 mouths is plenty. Imaging will go through the roof. Chris Thank you again for your answers. I really wanted the traditional Jubilee configuration. However I am looking at a $3000+ gap between the KPT 942-M and the KPT 535-B. I definitely prefer lower distortion, however I am unsure how much discernable difference there will be with a 80hz crossover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 I understand, it all boils down to "pick your poison" in the trades that you make. One person's poison is another's cure. Better is better. Good luck. I hope that it meets your expectations. If there is anything which I can do to help, let me know. BTW: one way to reduce bass distortion for almost any loudspeaker is to place the them within 18 inches (45 cm) of the room corners, then EQ the bass response down to flat again. This is the technique that PWK used and was a strong proponent of--to use the room's walls and floor mirror images to reduce the drive level on the bass drivers in their lowest octave. Getting rid of near field sound reflectors--equipment racks, wall discontinuities, other speakers and furniture--within 3 to 4 feet (1 metre) of the loudspeakers will avoid early reflections in the midrange, and give you the best of both worlds in the midrange and bass without affecting midrange imaging. The K-402s are magnificent in terms of controlled directivity in this regard, controlling early midrange reflections but they still need a little help at the mouth exits: about a 2' x 2' (0.6 x 0.6 m) square absorption pad centered on the side walls next the the K-402 mouths is plenty. Imaging will go through the roof. Chris Thank you again for your answers. I really wanted the traditional Jubilee configuration. However I am looking at a $3000+ gap between the KPT 942-M and the KPT 535-B. I definitely prefer lower distortion, however I am unsure how much discernable difference there will be with a 80hz crossover. You will loose your butt on those dual 15 inch direct radiators if you go to resell them, they have been used in multiple configgurations over the years and are fairly easy to come by on the used market, on the other hand, the Jubilee Bass bin will hold it's value. I believe Kevin Harmon owns both, but he just left today to go dear hunting out of state for a month Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamonddelts Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) I'm still struggling between these two. A pair of KPT-942-M speakers will be around $4150. A pair of two way biamp Jubilees will be around $7500. I really want to get my hands on a K402 horn. Just not sure if I'm willing to pay another $3000+ for horn loaded bass bins. Also the KPT 942-M comes stock with a K1132 CD. Two way Jube comes with options for K69 or BNC75 CD. Edited November 3, 2015 by diamonddelts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 why don't you discuss this with Roy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I'm still struggling between these two. A pair of KPT-942-M speakers will be around $4150. A pair of two way biamp Jubilees will be around $7500. I really want to get my hands on a K402 horn. Just not sure if I'm willing to pay another $3000+ for horn loaded bass bins. Also the KPT 942-M comes stock with a K1132 CD. Two way Jube comes with options for K69 or BNC75 CD. How much space do you have?? MWM double bin sounds better with the K-402 / K-69 than the Jub bin does, and you can buy them cheaper than dirt on the used market! Roger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamonddelts Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 I am in the midst of looking for a home so space is not an impediment for me at this time. I'm just looking to get the most bang for my buck at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedcrankcammer Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I am in the midst of looking for a home so space is not an impediment for me at this time. I'm just looking to get the most bang for my buck at this point. As long as you have enough space, you absolutely cannot beat the sound or the "Bang for your Buck!" of a pair of MWM bins topped off with the K-402/K-69 Combo! Get in touch with DTEL aka Elden here on the forum as he is running this setup. You should be able to pick up a pair of MWM bins with all 4 drivers fairly easily for around $500 or so. I have bought them in the past as cheaply as $60 a bin with drivers included in Extremely good shape as well! Roger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Where are you located? I've got a pair of MWM (double) bass bins that are nicked up a bit.... and have no drivers in them. You could have them for perhaps the cost of driving down and if you're in a good mood, you could kick in lunch. (meaning, you could have them for free) They would need drivers BUT, you could start with a single driver in them so that would be about $300 I think. Might be less. Buy a pair of K402's for about $1,200 each and you're about there. If you want more oomph, you can add a second woofer in the bass bin. I could also supply some K33 drivers for them but I'd want to recoup my costs on those (cabinets would be free since they were free to me) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) I have a NOS set of four K43E (15711), and some used as well (all home hi-fi, no PA use). (used ones are take-outs from Klipschorns and LaScalas that were replaced with quad 8" PPSL) Edited November 4, 2015 by djk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/160117-2011-klipsch-jubilees/#entry1940213 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Those look nice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamonddelts Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the suggestions and parts offers guys. But I don't know a thing about diy and active crossovers. Can anyone tell me if the K1132 is a flat out bad CD? I've read it has limited HF extension. Edited November 6, 2015 by diamonddelts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 you have to EQ all compression drivers to get top end that's just the nature of the thing. Never owned the 1132 but Roy Delgado designed (Roy also designed the K402) so it most likely does just what the literature says it will. Would be interest to compare directly to an EV DH1A. One member here ran a DH1A on a K402 and was very pleased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Thanks for the suggestions and parts offers guys. But I don't know a thing about diy and active crossovers. Can anyone tell me if the K1132 is a flat out bad CD? I've read it has limited HF extension. Just a side comment for you in case you return. I would also qualify as knowing nothing about an active crossover. I then bought some cinema speakers and joined the active club. I thought it would be difficult to deal with the active and I could not have been more wrong. Klipsch provided the specs for the active. I simply put the parts together, plugged in the parameters into the active and was done. I'm a 'plug & play' kinda guy, not one of these tinkerer type. Once you setup the active you are essentially done. Today, in the real world, I turn the system on and listen to what I want to listen to. If I had a passive instead of an active, NOTHING I do today would be any different. I would turn the system on and listen to what I want to. It really isn't difficult (if a monkey like me can do it, virtually anyone can!) and, there are loads of technical type folks here who would be willing and able to help you. Just wanted to make that comment to you even though I don't think you would act upon it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamonddelts Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 Thank you Coytee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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