jason str Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Simply 45 your ends in the corner and use the back panel for corner port extension if needed. Just because its different does not mean its harder to build. Yes but at some point you run out of corners to piggy back off of. Never had that problem and if there ever was an issue there are other ways to go about it. All depends on the design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Here is a super easy build that should take no more than a couple of days. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1726706-bunker-buster-build-24.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Here is a super easy build that should take no more than a couple of days. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1726706-bunker-buster-build-24.html The Veneer alone would take a few days work not to mention the cabinet. Not a beginners project by any means. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 I like the sonotube idea, but I know there is a ton of math to do to determine your dimensions, and I can't really find a ton of info on it. I can find a lot of finished projects, but not the basic information on how to start a build. I would like to keep it shorter than 21" which I believe means it needs to be wider. Then there is driver sizes, number of drivers, sealed or ports, size of ports, etc. How does this get determine? I think my Cambridge subs go down to 27hz. So I guess a good goal would be to get to 20hz? You can't quite get 20Hz tuning cause of the height you are wanting, but you can get a 22Hz using a 24" sonotube. The overall height would be increased with a top cover and the feet underneath. The problem with this sonotube is it's wider than it is tall, and it takes up a ton of floor space compared to some excellent subs. Here is the plan for a sono tuned to 22Hz that's 21" tall without the top and legs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) I've heard good things about this little SVS sub. It's 14.6”H 14.2"W 15.4”D, tuned to 19Hz, and costs $699 retail. http://www.digitaltrends.com/subwoofer-reviews/svs-sb-2000-review/ http://www.amazon.com/SVS-SB2000-500-watt-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00IE5MOUM http://www.crutchfield.com/p_946SB2KBA/SVS-SB-2000-Black-Ash.html?search=sb2000customer-reviews-tab Edited March 11, 2016 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 I like the sonotube idea, but I know there is a ton of math to do to determine your dimensions, and I can't really find a ton of info on it. I can find a lot of finished projects, but not the basic information on how to start a build. I would like to keep it shorter than 21" which I believe means it needs to be wider. Then there is driver sizes, number of drivers, sealed or ports, size of ports, etc. How does this get determine? I think my Cambridge subs go down to 27hz. So I guess a good goal would be to get to 20hz? You can't quite get 20Hz tuning cause of the height you are wanting, but you can get a 22Hz using a 24" sonotube. The overall height would be increased with a top cover and the feet underneath. The problem with this sonotube is it's wider than it is tall, and it takes up a ton of floor space compared to some excellent subs. Here is the plan for a sono tuned to 22Hz that's 21" tall without the top and legs: You would need to minimally double up on the 3" port witch also doubles the port length. Try one of the Dayton HO drivers, should model better at a lesser price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 Any thoughts on the Sunfire HRS-12 High Resolution 12-Inch Subwoofer? It says it goes down to 16 hz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) For the price and the reviews, I think the SVS is a better sub. If I were going to buy a small cube other than the SVS 2k, I would be looking for a Paradigm dealer and listening to the Monitor Sub 12. That's a tight as hell little sub. Really quite amazing. By the way, you will never need 16Hz, and even if you do you can't even hear it. If I were wanting that kind of LFE bass, I would be looking at a very large sub rather than a tiny little sun. The SVS PB-13 Ultra in 15Hz mode or the Danley DTS-10. Edited March 11, 2016 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 I like the sonotube idea, but I know there is a ton of math to do to determine your dimensions, and I can't really find a ton of info on it. I can find a lot of finished projects, but not the basic information on how to start a build. I would like to keep it shorter than 21" which I believe means it needs to be wider. Then there is driver sizes, number of drivers, sealed or ports, size of ports, etc. How does this get determine? I think my Cambridge subs go down to 27hz. So I guess a good goal would be to get to 20hz? You can't quite get 20Hz tuning cause of the height you are wanting, but you can get a 22Hz using a 24" sonotube. The overall height would be increased with a top cover and the feet underneath. The problem with this sonotube is it's wider than it is tall, and it takes up a ton of floor space compared to some excellent subs. Here is the plan for a sono tuned to 22Hz that's 21" tall without the top and legs: You would need to minimally double up on the 3" port witch also doubles the port length. Try one of the Dayton HO drivers, should model better at a lesser price. Right, you would have to use a 180 degree bend inside for that. You and me both know there isn't much difference in 22 and 20Hz tuning anyhow. Besides that, the driver is everything in an enclosure. Just because this sonotube is tuned for 22 Hz doesn't mean the driver you put in it isn't going to sound like crap. Here's what the mighty Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax DVC looks like in this enclosure, and it's got an fs of under 20Hz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Any thoughts on the Sunfire HRS-12 High Resolution 12-Inch Subwoofer? It says it goes down to 16 hz. I think those are spec'd with boundary gain in a smallish room. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Any thoughts on the Sunfire HRS-12 High Resolution 12-Inch Subwoofer? It says it goes down to 16 hz. I think those are spec'd with boundary gain in a smallish room. Bill But it says its a high resolution subwoofer, it must be superior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I like the sonotube idea, but I know there is a ton of math to do to determine your dimensions, and I can't really find a ton of info on it. I can find a lot of finished projects, but not the basic information on how to start a build. I would like to keep it shorter than 21" which I believe means it needs to be wider. Then there is driver sizes, number of drivers, sealed or ports, size of ports, etc. How does this get determine? I think my Cambridge subs go down to 27hz. So I guess a good goal would be to get to 20hz? You can't quite get 20Hz tuning cause of the height you are wanting, but you can get a 22Hz using a 24" sonotube. The overall height would be increased with a top cover and the feet underneath. The problem with this sonotube is it's wider than it is tall, and it takes up a ton of floor space compared to some excellent subs. Here is the plan for a sono tuned to 22Hz that's 21" tall without the top and legs: You would need to minimally double up on the 3" port witch also doubles the port length. Try one of the Dayton HO drivers, should model better at a lesser price. Right, you would have to use a 180 degree bend inside for that. You and me both know there isn't much difference in 22 and 20Hz tuning anyhow. Besides that, the driver is everything in an enclosure. Just because this sonotube is tuned for 22 Hz doesn't mean the driver you put in it isn't going to sound like crap. Here's what the mighty Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax DVC looks like in this enclosure, and it's got an fs of under 20Hz. The cabinet is way too small for the 18" Ultimax in a ported configuration, may be OK in a sealed configuration though still too small. I disagree about the driver being everything in an enclosure, if anything the enclosure is everything to a driver. Any day of the week i would take a budget driver in a proper cabinet over an expensive one in a cabinet that does not match up with the driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I like the sonotube idea, but I know there is a ton of math to do to determine your dimensions, and I can't really find a ton of info on it. I can find a lot of finished projects, but not the basic information on how to start a build. I would like to keep it shorter than 21" which I believe means it needs to be wider. Then there is driver sizes, number of drivers, sealed or ports, size of ports, etc. How does this get determine? I think my Cambridge subs go down to 27hz. So I guess a good goal would be to get to 20hz? You can't quite get 20Hz tuning cause of the height you are wanting, but you can get a 22Hz using a 24" sonotube. The overall height would be increased with a top cover and the feet underneath. The problem with this sonotube is it's wider than it is tall, and it takes up a ton of floor space compared to some excellent subs. Here is the plan for a sono tuned to 22Hz that's 21" tall without the top and legs: You would need to minimally double up on the 3" port witch also doubles the port length. Try one of the Dayton HO drivers, should model better at a lesser price. Right, you would have to use a 180 degree bend inside for that. You and me both know there isn't much difference in 22 and 20Hz tuning anyhow. Besides that, the driver is everything in an enclosure. Just because this sonotube is tuned for 22 Hz doesn't mean the driver you put in it isn't going to sound like crap. Here's what the mighty Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax DVC looks like in this enclosure, and it's got an fs of under 20Hz. The cabinet is way too small for the 18" Ultimax in a ported configuration, may be OK in a sealed configuration though still too small. I disagree about the driver being everything in an enclosure, if anything the enclosure is everything to a driver. Any day of the week i would take a budget driver in a proper cabinet over an expensive one in a cabinet that does not match up with the driver. Good catch. The VAS on the 18" Ultimax is double this' enclosure size. I stand corrected, thanks. As for your driver or enclosure is more important: If you have an enclosure, then you need to find a driver that works in it. If you have a driver already, then you need to make/find an enclosure that will work with that driver. I should have said "the correct driver is important in an enclosure". The HO drivers didn't look much better in this enclosure, but the 12" HFA looks pretty good -3db at under 20Hz. Check this out: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 The 15" Dayton HO models well in this enclosure just for reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 The 15" Dayton HO models well in this enclosure just for reference. You give up 4Hz on the bottom end with the 15" 390HO as compared to the 12" HFA in this enclosure. However; the HO driver is capable of 5db higher output across the spectrum. The 12" 315HO doesn't work well in this enclosure. I suppose it's vas is just way too low. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 I just happened to pick up a definitive technology powerfield 1800 along with a ton of other equipment. I read that it's rated down to 13 hz. Do any of you have any experience with this sub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 That sub should do a great job for you, congrats. What other equipment did you pick up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 carver pre-amp ct-3 carver surround sound processor dlp-33 carver power amp tfm-35 klipsch klf-30 light oak finish proscan laser disc player with 50+ discs (movies and rare concerts) w/ remote Monster / Definitive Technologies powerfield 1800 18" subwoofer klipsch ksp-s6 black klipsch klf c-7 black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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