Woofers and Tweeters Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 I'm into a Howard Miller furniture store grade Grandfather clock. I bought it a few days ago knowing that the weights has hit the bottom twice. The chain that holds the weight hangs on a sprocket that is a part of a one way ratchet. I need to get into the ratchet to adjust the tabs (they spring into cavities of a cog that holds the weight to meter out the energy for the movement). After removing the movement and about 50 other parts, I'm close to where I need to be. My problem is that there's a spider shaped spring keeper that is being stubborn. It is made to slide on until the tips register in a grove that's machined in the axle. The keeper's fingers are a little stout. I can lever them out of registry one at a time using the one adjacent, but before I can make it all the way around they jump back in. I'm not sure if there is a special puller that would be used or.... Maybe I need to use some Blacksmith tools on it....speaking of tool, Tool is what's playing Right This Minute. Anybody else get into clocks? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 I Salute your Courage for "going in" I do see and understand your immediate problem. The fingers act as a "Circlip" would, but separated multiple fingers. Must be a very specialized miniature tool for this. Otherwise, all that comes to mind is "Pandora's Box" and "Rabbithole", and... the "World of Hurt" phrase. Unless you have done this kinda work before anyway. I have no real answer, no solution. But I really hope it works when you're finished. Hopefully, with no "extra parts". BUT, again, I do honestly acknowledge your possession of Gigante Huevos. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skelt Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 If you can lift them individually would it be possible to insert a shim to keep each finger from reseating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 8 minutes ago, Karsoncookie said: The fingers act as a "Circlip" would, but separated multiple fingers. I wish that they would have used a wave spring held by a flat washer and secure it with an E clip. 3 minutes ago, UH1dg337 said: If you can lift them individually would it be possible to insert a shim to keep each finger from reseating? Excellent thought and that's the first thing that I thought of too. Though miniature, they have some forces to recon with and I would have to slide something a few thousandth thick in place. I believe that it would deform....I might sacrifice a feeler gauge to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skelt Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 If you have some romex could you flatten out pieces on an anvil to reach a reasonable thickness? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 If you do go that route of sacrificing feeler gauge, obviously use some thicknesses that you really don't care about. Otherwise, just cut some scrap metal from ? soup can?. Just don't slice the hell out of your fingers doing the whole process. DANGGGGG ..... Overall very scary. Marc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Wondering it I were to fabricate a plate with a center hole that would fit the bearing area and shoulder against the rest of the axle...and have the plate with four holes arrayed close to the center...and the holes large enough to let ~#4 machine screw to pass... and at the end of the screw(s) machine it to be the shape of a T...maybe I could insert the T heads in, turn them 90 degrees and use the nuts on the threads of the #4 screw to pull them up.. scratching my head.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skelt Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 If you have shim stock about .01 to .015" and can roll a cylinder to fit the shaft you might be able to work it under the fingers, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 1 minute ago, UH1dg337 said: If you have shim stock about .01 to .015" and can roll a cylinder I like that thought too. I thought of chewing out a sleeve that would be ~ .005" thick in a lathe. The problem is that I would have to lift them all at the same time to let it pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USNRET Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Is there room to push it "on" to reveal the groove? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 It's ~60f degrees here. I'm headed to the shop to advance a different job. Hope that you all have this off when I get back Thanks for y'all's thoughts / input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Just now, USNRET said: Is there room to push it "on" to reveal the groove? Great though, nope. It's one side of the chain guide and is against the sprocket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Woofers I think meant - If the shim is in a roll of thin stock curled to the same size of shaft OD, POSSIBLY you could work it under each finger individually, moving the spiral of the coil shim downwards, as you do all fingers. A very good thought, but not gonna happen CAUSE the previously held teeth will dig into the shim stock as you make room and try to move it down to the next finger. Hope that made sense. Geez - Find a local Clockmaker to help. Marc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Now you know why whenever you replace the clutch on MOST engines nowadays, it is WISE to replace the pressure plate, too. Back in the days when they used coil springs instead of what they use nowadays (like in your picture!), this wasn't necessary. Where was the movement made? My advise is to just take it to a clock guy and he would have it working in no time flat. Good clock repair guys are actually getting harder to find nowadays, though! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 4 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said: Where was the movement made? Germany 5 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said: Good clock repair guys are actually getting harder to find nowadays, though! +1 6 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said: My advise is to just take it to a clock guy and he would have it working in no time flat. I have Blacksmith tools, I got this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Just now, Woofers and Tweeters said: I have Blacksmith tools, I got this. Use the 5 lb. hammer...not sure the 2.5 lb. hammer is heavy enough...just saying... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USNRET Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Interesting how these things roll around thru the forum. I just inherited this and I am looking for a clocksmith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 3 hours ago, Karsoncookie said: Otherwise, just cut some scrap metal from ? soup can?. I have done that several times to shim a work-piece on a mill table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USNRET Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 2 minutes ago, Woofers and Tweeters said: I have done that several times to shim a work-piece on a mill table. Coors Light can 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 I chucked a chuck in a chuck to hold it. Keeping an outward force with my finger tips, I was able to unseat the keepers and remove the sprag plate (the plate that has the four tabs). Tuned it to what I hope fixes it and it's back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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