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what tools for amp build, solder, tips etc...


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I am seriously considering building a Transcendent Sound Masterpiece 300B Pre-amp

 

I  have never built any diy amp, pre, etc... before

 

I have done a good bit of wire soldering back in my Harley days new wire harnesses and the like, I have repaired a few joints over the years. The project in question is all point to point no PCB so in theory I should be able to make a mechanical connection then solder same

 

I have a Weller WEs51 solder station (I need new tips)

 

what is the best solder for electronics, I usually shut off my weller between uses is that a good practice ? what about desolder wick for the inevitable screw up.

In short what would you want available / handy for a project like this

I also have a good Fluke DMM, and hand tools Cutters, needle nose etc...

 

Advice appreciated

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Guest wdecho

 

You will want 60/40 rosin core solder. Forget about lead free, very hard to solder using it. Desoldering wick is good and cheap but you have to learn the technique for using it. Not hard. 

 

I deleted some of my previous post, I failed to see preamplifier in your question. I am not familiar with the schematic but if it uses a 300B tube it is not easy to build it as a preamplifier and keep it quiet being that it is direct heated. I think it would be an ambitious first project. I have built this preamplifier and it sounds real nice for a tube pre. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNBgo9Md8IU&t=3s   I built it from the schematic but Bruce offers it in a all in one kit for $450. http://oddwattaudio.com/owforewatt.html

 

 

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Just about any solder project is ambitious for me (hand tremmors) Appreciate the input. I may try and find someone to build it for me and pay a fee. Then the ? whom do I trust, Certainly I would trust people on the forums I know many here DIY all the time....................Joe

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60/40 doesn’t go directly from a solid to a liquid, but passes through a transitional “slushy” state when heated, increasing the chances of a cold solder joint. Use 63/37, which is eutectic. It goes straight to liquid form when heated, and also has the lowest melting point. If you can afford it, use WBT, which is hands down the best I’ve ever used. 

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+1 on the 63/37 advice. And the "don't use lead free". Lead free solder joints look like crap even when they're good half the time. I mean it is really hard to get a pretty, shiny lead free solder joint. Get a "soldapullt" for unsoldering the inevitable mistake:

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=soldapullt+ds017&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=153668187043&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3100941254851300013&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014327&hvtargid=kwd-2861258690&ref=pd_sl_4brhiyo5sc_b

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