R-110SW / R-112SW / R-115SW Repair Blog

[StrangeMadness]

Hi, so I'm looking to buy a klipsch r-112sw. What are the most common problems you run across? Can most of em be prevented by the user or should they be avoided. 

[kusha]

On 5/10/2022 at 6:42 AM, tibimakai said:

I have a R-110SW that blowing fuse I find out to part it seems burned put i don't know one of them what it is. Its is look like a resistance but have no description. Any how i leave pic here and wounded if anyone has any ideas what is this?https://ibb.co/3m5gcmc

 

[BadBoo_22]

Not sure if thread still has life but, 

 

I've got an R-115SW NA, S/N: 106070115500297 that recently went out. Was working fine with a Pioneer Elite receiver, then I swapped receivers and when I plugged it in I got minimal sound then nothing. Now it rhythmically beats like it is trying to power on and off. It sounds like a heartbeat. The longer it is plugged in the quicker the power cycle rhythm. Afraid to do any more damage at this point. Not sure where to start and am hesitant to crack it up as I am average at best with an iron. Wondering what my options might be? Happy to compensate for time and experience into this.

Cheers.

[Gortex]

Hi all. I’m new to the forum and found it became one of my 2 year old R-112sw has now no sound coming from it. It has power just no sound. My board looks a little different to the ones in this blog, I have this long white part at the top of board, Can someone tell me which caps resistors I should change I don’t have the resistor beside the big caps. Looking at the board nothing looks burnt out or damaged. 
thanks in advance. 
 

 

[amr101dm]

@Gortex I have just repaired a new rev board like yours. In my case the problem was the power supply. The resonant capacitor was faulty. You need to replace it with a low esr and non inductive capacitor (I used Panasonic ECWH)

[Jan1989]

Hey community.

 

I have a 112 sw and are very happy with it. After a recent move, I heard a loud rattling sound in some frequencies. I saw that the inner ant outer part of the copper colored membrane are disconnected at some places, producing the described rattle. I do not find an replacement online, but I guess that there are known replacements one can buy to replace it with but my knowledge is very limited. 

 

Could you recommend ones or know about another thread where this was discussed before (and I did not find) 

 

Thanks a lot! 

[Old Salt]

On 4/15/2023 at 1:45 PM, BillL001 said:

So yeah, the fact that the original R115 amp gets hot while in standby mode is definitely something wrong in its design or in manufactuering - I tend to think it's a bad design, since getting hot on standby mode happened to so many people as a common problem. 

 

I have 2 R-112SWs that have been in continuous service since 2017, always in Auto mode. The plate amps are cool to the touch when not active, and barely warm when in use. By design, it draws less than 1 watt of power when in standby, which obviously wouldn't generate significant heat. I suspect the heat is a symptom of another failure, and that heat causes additional failures. Replacing R39 with a 10W resistor is likely a bandaid over the underlying problem.

 

 At this point, I feel like my R-112SWs are living on borrowed time. Hopefully they live on for many more years (knock on wood). Other than my Onkyo TX-NR818, I've had perfect luck with audio equipment. The Onkyo had a design flaw than the company took responsibility for. Not only did they repair it out of warranty, they covered that particular defect for 4 additional years on all AVRs impacted. That AVR is still performing flawlessly. THAT is a company that stands behind their product.

[Braat1]

On 11/24/2019 at 8:38 PM, ngen33r said:

Hello All

I have been repairing Klipsch subwoofer amps for about 15 years as a hobby. I have decided to start blogging my repairs and eventually do videos of each one. This thread is intended to be a blog and a resource for information. I will try to answer repair questions as best I can. Comments and tips are also welcome, If you do not have the experience or the tools, PLEASE do not attempt any of these repairs. You will only end up damaging the board and it will end up costing more for a tech to repair the damage. If you do not have a high quality vacuum desoldering station (Hakko or Weller) and a current limited mains supply, you should not be working on these amps. These subwoofers do not have any user serviceable parts inside. If you open up the sub or attempt any repair you see in this thread, you are doing so at your own risk!!!

 

The main issue that I see with these is a thermal failure. The parts were placed too close together and since almost everyone is too lazy to switch them off when not using them the capacitors just cook and then things start to burn up.

 

ALWAYS REMEMBER TO UNPLUG OR SWITCH OFF YOUR AMPS. CAPACITORS HAVE A LIFESPAN AND WHEN POWER IS APPLIED THE CLOCK IS TICKING. THE AUTO ON/OFF FUNCTION DOES NOT PREVENT THIS ON MOST MODELS!!!!!!!

 

Do you have a list of components for the R115SW board? Resistors, capacitors etc? 
Or does anyone else have this? I am going to replace all caps and resistors on my R115SW next week. And going to order the parts. 
 

Tnx for all reply 

 

[kdammen]

 

On 10/21/2023 at 4:26 PM, Braat1 said:

 

Do you have a list of components for the R115SW board? Resistors, capacitors etc? 
Or does anyone else have this? I am going to replace all caps and resistors on my R115SW next week. And going to order the parts. 
 

Tnx for all reply 

 

These are the ones I've used with success

Qty	Label	UF	Volt	Polarity	Part #
3	c38, c42, C1	4.7	50	BiPolar	UDB1H4R7MPM
2	c56, C69	10	50	BiPolar	UVP1H100MED
4	C19, C54, C80, cap By R40 Behind Large Caps	22	50	Polarized	UPW1H220MDD1TD
3	C29, C30, C39	47	25	Polarized	UPS1E470MDD1TD
4	C43, C44, C47, C48	100	25	Polarized	UPS1V101MPD1TD
1	c18	330	16	Polarized	UPS1V331MPD1TD
2	Large Caps	1000	80	Polarized	UPJ1K102MHD
1	Resistor	10W820RJ			SQP10AJB-820R
1	Transistor TIP31C				TIP31C
1	U1 IRS2092S PWM (IRS2092STRPBF)

Edited November 8, 2023 by kdammen

[rossi32sa]

On 10/23/2023 at 2:21 PM, kdammen said:

 

These are the ones I've used with success

Qty	Label	UF	Volt	Polarity	Part #
3	c38, c42, C1	4.7	50	BiPolar	UDB1H4R7MPM
2	c56, C69	10	50	BiPolar	UVP1H100MED
4	C19, C54, C80, cap By R40 Behind Large Caps	22	50	Polarized	UPW1H220MDD1TD
3	C29, C30, C39	47	25	Polarized	UPS1E470MDD1TD
4	C43, C44, C47, C48	100	25	Polarized	UPS1V101MPD1TD
1	c18	330	16	Polarized	UPS1V331MPD1TD
2	Large Caps	1000	80	Polarized	UPJ1K102MHD
1	Resistor	10W820RJ			SQP10AJB-820R
1	Transistor TIP31C				TIP31C
1	U1 IRS2092S PWM (IRS2092STRPBF)

I've recapped 4 of these so far without issue.  Now I have one completely recapped; no sound still,  and the output transistors test fine.  Have voltage to them too.  PWM chip?

 

TIA!

[JohnnyWalk3r]

Hey,

 

I also have the newest version of the Amp with the resistor on the side of the pcb. I already replaced my Caps, but i still just get a clicking sound every second from it. The voltage from the Base of the two small Transistors stays at 0V, the voltage from the Big transistor Base is okay, as long as i dont connect the speaker. As soon as it’s connected the voltage goes up/down with the frequency of the clicking…

[rossi32sa]

On 11/22/2023 at 10:59 AM, JohnnyWalk3r said:

Hey,

 

I also have the newest version of the Amp with the resistor on the side of the pcb. I already replaced my Caps, but i still just get a clicking sound every second from it. The voltage from the Base of the two small Transistors stays at 0V, the voltage from the Big transistor Base is okay, as long as i dont connect the speaker. As soon as it’s connected the voltage goes up/down with the frequency of the clicking…

 

I just did 3 of them. Did you replace the capacitor that sits right behind the output transistors?  On the old boards, it's soldered on top of  a SMD capacitor. 

[mfurm]

On 4/16/2023 at 6:17 AM, poulmm said:

Hi BillL001

Great, you got your sub running again. 🙂 Pleased i could help you to save some $$$. 🙂

Just wanted to common on thing here:
A) As you right about now knowing if the jumper would cause fire... It can't, the +5 stand by supply is really low current supply for the Op-amps only. So don't be worry about that. 
As i write, the only thing the jumper do, is add constant +5 volt supply for the LM324 Op-amp.

I did long time test on sweep and load test on the complte PSU & Amp, and all work as it shall.
Including the "Auto" sound detect start and ~15-20min Auto shutdown function.

The only thing, i will say to DIY people out there: Mount the Resistor external on the ALU plate (main chassis plate) and add some wires from the external resistor to the PCB. Sorry BillL001 i don't like the copper solution you showed on the pictures. It could cause a serious short on the PCB. Better be safe than sorry. 🙂 

That was the reason i did it the resistor external mounted to get any heat away from the PCB. See attached picture. Also there are some massive vibrations inside this subwoofer. I don't think the "flying" resistor solution is great on the long term use. Think it would fail over time. Because of the solder pads should hold the weight of the resistor, but also the soldering it self will be bad over time. Cause all the heat and cold all the time, the soldering it self will problerly be/get a cold soldering over time. Not so nice... So make the repair the Right way them things will last. 🙂
Some will question the external resistor, now there are wires in between, but technical the wires would only add <1 ohm to the 820ohn the resistor, nothing to say. So no problems here. 🙂


The part number for the chassis resistor:
RS components :809-8718 820 ohm

OR
Mouse: https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ARCOL-Ohmite/AP851-820R-J-100PPM?qs=LJ1pyEEo5rYLMw1VfmR0rA%3D%3D

There are many other resistor model, i just found this 820 ohm, it's was easy mount type. You can use what ever you feel. 🙂

Please feel free to ask if there are any question. 🙂
 

 

What wiring did you use here from the resistor to the board, and what does the other end look like when soldered to the board? Did you solder both ends? thanks!

[ThueT]

One of my R 115 SW amps died. I have ordered a new. I plan on installing a supersilent PC type fan to blow some air on the amp. Could someone show me where the heat comes from/ the best place to aim the fan?

[Xxerby]

Hello everyone,

 

Excuse my translation, I am French, more precisely from Montpellier.

 

I just finished repairing my 115SW after almost 50 hours. I searched all the blogs, forums, videos that could allow me to fix it. I had at my disposal two HS amps. One of the two was used to do some retro engineering.

 

I wanted to thank you for the valuable information on this particular blog. I wanted to share with you all the information I have gathered.

 

Here is a quick description of my problem:

LED indicator on, no sound output. After opening, I noticed that the amp had already been repaired or rather that the previous owner had tried.

 

I checked all the power supplies, various filters and preamp. 

 

The power board is functional

 

The power resistance and the person who tried to repair the amp destroyed several tracks and component.

After repairing and cleaning all the damage, I replaced all the capacitors as recommended as well as the power resistor with a ceramic resistor of 820R 10W.

 

After making all these changes, injecting a sinusoidal signal in 20 Hz input using a mobile app, I could see with an oscilloscope a continuous component on the output and peaks at +63V intermittently.

 

Using the documentation and the application note I checked all the voltages. 

 

At the end of the comparator (COMP) I had a good frequency square signal, so the problem came from the corner. 

Both VREF and OCSET resistors are out of service and the IRS has burned on one side. The symptom I had was overcurrent protection that was characterized by a triangular signal on the CSD pin. The amp goes into error and the capacitor discharges. The amp restarts and the voltage rises gradually and this indefinitely, which creates a triangular signal. CSD is easily visible on the via located in front of the CON/-15V/GND/+15V connector next to R50. (AN P7/P8)

 

Here is the summary of everything I had to fix: 
- PWM IC Replacement (IRS2092)
- Reconstruction of two runways (between Q15 and Q3 and between RA4 and RA5)
- Replacement of a bipolar capacitor (C10)
- Bipolar Replacement (Q15)
- Replacement of all capacitors and power resistor
- Replacement of two SMD resistors near IRS (R08 and R11)

 

I attach several images and files that can help. The diagrams are not necessarily complete but can help.

 

These are the schematics I mad :

 

https://ibb.co/H4x2WyQ
https://ibb.co/5XQhkWL
https://ibb.co/T0Gh9Bx

 

I hope this information will help you in your repair, good luck.

 

https://320volt.com/en/400w-claas-d-subwoofer-amplifier-circuit-irs2092/ (most faithful schematic)

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.fr/datasheet-pdf/view/25416/STMICROELECTRONICS/TL082C.html (TL082C 2OP -> Phase inverter)

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.fr/datasheet-pdf/view/22753/STMICROELECTRONICS/LM324.html (LM324 4 AOP)

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.fr/datasheet-pdf/view/25399/STMICROELECTRONICS/TL074C.html (TL074C 4 AOP)

https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irs2092.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a401535675f1be2790 (IRS DOC)

https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/an-1138.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a40153559a077610d1 (IRS AN)

Edited December 20, 2023 by Xxerby

[kdammen]

Thank you Xxerby for all this information. That will greatly help repair these. 

 

I have one where the power led isn't turning on and the power supply isn't turning on. I can manually turn on the power supply and it's outputting power. I've replaced all caps, resistor, and transistor. Not sure where to look next. 

Edited December 21, 2023 by kdammen

[Roamin]

Just joined this forum to share my experience. I have 2 SPL-100 subwoofers that share a very similar amplifier. Part number is : PD-BFS-R110SW-V1 . Manufactured 20180522. The subs have a 200w power supply. My issue started just a few months out of warranty, I contacted Klipsch but I was told they don't do international warranty (I'm in Canada) and directed me to a local repair center (local , but still kinda far). My issue was that every few minutes I would hear a "Pop" coming from the sub. It took me a while to even understand that pop was coming from my sub, and probably only did when it started doing it very frequently.. I unplugged the sub for a while since I have 2 but I got lazy and I never sent the amp for repair at the repair shop.. Eventually I plugged it back in and by then the "Pop" wasn't there anymore.. I figured I got lucky and the issue went away. Few days ago I wanted to add more bass so I went for the gain on both subs and realized , the sub wasn't working at all! Even though the green power light was on, it was dead. So I'm guessing I went for at least a year with 1 sub down and didn't even notice.. So began the search to see if anyone had repaired this thing before and I ended up in this thread. Not having done any research at all on this problem before I read through the entire thread. Most people here speak of overheating resistors, cooked capacitors, dead transistor but my board had nothing of the sorts. All the bigger wattage resistors were all clean , no busted caps, nothing. Even the main transistor is different in my build , it's a simple TIP31C. The resistor driving it is a 470 ohms, which is intact. Having 2 identical subs I decided to open the second one and start comparing stuff. I quickly found that in the working one , the resistor had -4 volts on it but on the dead sub that voltage was at -0.492 volts. At one point , by accident I noticed that if I powered on the amp it would work for about 3 seconds and the voltage would raise to -0.492 volts (I say raise because its a negative voltage). I tested the amp by putting my finger on the cable plugged into the left channel just to hear a hum caused by noise. After 3 seconds it would die and would only work if I waited about 10 minutes with it powered off. Since this was constant, I figured it's not a passive component like a resistor or transistor because those usually work or don't but ever rarely are they intermittent like this, especially if they have no signs of damage. So I decided to go take a look at the datasheet for the IRS2092 to see if it has any type of protection , which is frequent in ICs and sure enough it has an over-current protection. It was then I realized that the "Pop" sound I had been hearing all this time was caused by this IC, constantly cutting off the power causing the "Pop" and then resetting back to normal operation right away. Since over-current should come from the MOSFET (in my case , my board uses a dual MOSTFET instead of 2 independent parts, part # IRFI4019HG) the easiest thing to try quickly was to move the MOSTFET from one amp to the other and so I swapped both parts. Unfortunately the dead amp remained dead and actually it stopped turning on for 3 seconds, but the working one still worked with the swapped MOSFET, telling me both parts are working. I didn't want to swap the IRC2092 from one amp to the other because it's somewhat tough to access and removing it to re-install it somewhere else might not be the best thing. I started looking around if this component had a high failure rate and for any other information I could gather and found some on the DIYaudio forums. While the failure rate doesn't seem astronomical on this part, it's a very common part , used a lot in the DIYers community and I came across a post by "nigelwright7557" that said, the IRS2092 is fussy , large MOSFET gate capacitance will trigger the overload protection, if the MOSFETs go it usually takes the IRC2092 with it too so change them both. So I went on Digikey, ordered both the IRS2092, the IRFI4019HG , and also all capacitors on the board just in case (the list is exactly the same as the picture in Xxerby's post). I figured , can't hurt to have to capacitors in case. Got the parts the following day and installed them both (I didn't change any capacitors at all) and voilà! The subwoofer lives! I didn't need to change the MOSFET because the original one of this board is now in the amp that worked and this board had the one from the working amp after I had swapped them.. but I figured may as well put both parts , since they only were 5$ CAD each.

A quick explanation as to why the transistor (TIP31c on my board) turns off when the protection kicks in is that there is a pin, CSD, as mentionned by Xxerby that is part of the auto-protection circuit. This pin feeds the power for the transistor and when the protection kicks in , even though the transistor is still closed (voltage on it's base is always present) there is no longer power on it's collector and the IRS2092 is driven by this power , through the emitter. (Thanks @Xxerby for your outlines of the connections on your board, it helped me figure this part out since my board is full of white silicone and not glue like the boards in this thread). In the end the IRS2092 failed and kept triggering the auto-protection , even though there was no over-current situation, causing a "Pop" every time the chip would reset...

The end.  Sorry for the book, but hopefully it helps others in the future.

[eduardofsjr]

Hello,

 

I have a R-115SW unit since 2019. For the last 6 months I left it disconnected (no power cord and no signal cable).

 

Now I turned it on: front LED is on, but no sound (buzz test failed too).

 

I can’t see any burned component. I tried to check some voltages:

 

+5 VDC: OK

+-15 VDC: zero

+- 62 VDC: zero

 

I disconnected the cables that go to audio pcb.

 

I had read here in this topic about connecting 5V to PSON/OFF: still no +-15V or +-62V (CN2).

Edit: different GNDs (15V and 5V connectors), so disconsider this PSON part, because GNDs were not connected.

Edit 2: still no 15V or 62V, even with grounds properly connected and PSON = 5V

 

Any suggestion?

Edited January 22 by eduardofsjr

[Rossi32s]

On 1/4/2024 at 12:26 AM, Roamin said:

Just joined this forum to share my experience. I have 2 SPL-100 subwoofers that share a very similar amplifier. Part number is : PD-BFS-R110SW-V1 . Manufactured 20180522. The subs have a 200w power supply. My issue started just a few months out of warranty, I contacted Klipsch but I was told they don't do international warranty (I'm in Canada) and directed me to a local repair center (local , but still kinda far). My issue was that every few minutes I would hear a "Pop" coming from the sub. It took me a while to even understand that pop was coming from my sub, and probably only did when it started doing it very frequently.. I unplugged the sub for a while since I have 2 but I got lazy and I never sent the amp for repair at the repair shop.. Eventually I plugged it back in and by then the "Pop" wasn't there anymore.. I figured I got lucky and the issue went away. Few days ago I wanted to add more bass so I went for the gain on both subs and realized , the sub wasn't working at all! Even though the green power light was on, it was dead. So I'm guessing I went for at least a year with 1 sub down and didn't even notice.. So began the search to see if anyone had repaired this thing before and I ended up in this thread. Not having done any research at all on this problem before I read through the entire thread. Most people here speak of overheating resistors, cooked capacitors, dead transistor but my board had nothing of the sorts. All the bigger wattage resistors were all clean , no busted caps, nothing. Even the main transistor is different in my build , it's a simple TIP31C. The resistor driving it is a 470 ohms, which is intact. Having 2 identical subs I decided to open the second one and start comparing stuff. I quickly found that in the working one , the resistor had -4 volts on it but on the dead sub that voltage was at -0.492 volts. At one point , by accident I noticed that if I powered on the amp it would work for about 3 seconds and the voltage would raise to -0.492 volts (I say raise because its a negative voltage). I tested the amp by putting my finger on the cable plugged into the left channel just to hear a hum caused by noise. After 3 seconds it would die and would only work if I waited about 10 minutes with it powered off. Since this was constant, I figured it's not a passive component like a resistor or transistor because those usually work or don't but ever rarely are they intermittent like this, especially if they have no signs of damage. So I decided to go take a look at the datasheet for the IRS2092 to see if it has any type of protection , which is frequent in ICs and sure enough it has an over-current protection. It was then I realized that the "Pop" sound I had been hearing all this time was caused by this IC, constantly cutting off the power causing the "Pop" and then resetting back to normal operation right away. Since over-current should come from the MOSFET (in my case , my board uses a dual MOSTFET instead of 2 independent parts, part # IRFI4019HG) the easiest thing to try quickly was to move the MOSTFET from one amp to the other and so I swapped both parts. Unfortunately the dead amp remained dead and actually it stopped turning on for 3 seconds, but the working one still worked with the swapped MOSFET, telling me both parts are working. I didn't want to swap the IRC2092 from one amp to the other because it's somewhat tough to access and removing it to re-install it somewhere else might not be the best thing. I started looking around if this component had a high failure rate and for any other information I could gather and found some on the DIYaudio forums. While the failure rate doesn't seem astronomical on this part, it's a very common part , used a lot in the DIYers community and I came across a post by "nigelwright7557" that said, the IRS2092 is fussy , large MOSFET gate capacitance will trigger the overload protection, if the MOSFETs go it usually takes the IRC2092 with it too so change them both. So I went on Digikey, ordered both the IRS2092, the IRFI4019HG , and also all capacitors on the board just in case (the list is exactly the same as the picture in Xxerby's post). I figured , can't hurt to have to capacitors in case. Got the parts the following day and installed them both (I didn't change any capacitors at all) and voilà! The subwoofer lives! I didn't need to change the MOSFET because the original one of this board is now in the amp that worked and this board had the one from the working amp after I had swapped them.. but I figured may as well put both parts , since they only were 5$ CAD each.

A quick explanation as to why the transistor (TIP31c on my board) turns off when the protection kicks in is that there is a pin, CSD, as mentionned by Xxerby that is part of the auto-protection circuit. This pin feeds the power for the transistor and when the protection kicks in , even though the transistor is still closed (voltage on it's base is always present) there is no longer power on it's collector and the IRS2092 is driven by this power , through the emitter. (Thanks @Xxerby for your outlines of the connections on your board, it helped me figure this part out since my board is full of white silicone and not glue like the boards in this thread). In the end the IRS2092 failed and kept triggering the auto-protection , even though there was no over-current situation, causing a "Pop" every time the chip would reset...

The end.  Sorry for the book, but hopefully it helps others in the future.

Replace the caps around the TIP31,  and replace the cap sitting by itself to the right of the IRS IC.

Did 7+ of these today..

 

[biscuitownz]

Hi everyone,

 

This is a fix for the amp powering on for a some time and then turning off by itself. This is a better method compared to what was mentioned earlier about "jumpering" the 5V input to the amp turn on control pin as this bypasses the auto turn-on circuit and might even make the power switch unless.

 

This method allows you to retain the auto turn-on feature and the use of the power switch. 

 

Connect a ~4.7k resistor to pin 1 of Q7 (located next to the 5V connector) and ground. This PNP transistor provides 5V power to the auto turn-on circuit and without it the amp will not turn on. 

 

The problem is the base of Q7 no longer gets pulled down and 5V is no longer supplied to the circuit, which turns off the enable signal for the power supply. I'm not sure why this happens and it has been difficult to trace back without a schematic.

 

Also, don't waste your money on buying "audio grade" capacitors for this repair. All of the capacitors on here are either for decoupling, reserve, or timing. None of them are in the path for audio as this is a class D amp. Just get the cheapest capacitor from a reputable brand and you'll be fine. 

 

I have a lot of experience with the IRS2092 and have designed a few amps using this driver. If there are any questions regarding the output stage I will be happy to assist.