R-110SW / R-112SW / R-115SW Repair Blog

[rossi32sa]

On 11/22/2023 at 10:59 AM, JohnnyWalk3r said:

Hey,

 

I also have the newest version of the Amp with the resistor on the side of the pcb. I already replaced my Caps, but i still just get a clicking sound every second from it. The voltage from the Base of the two small Transistors stays at 0V, the voltage from the Big transistor Base is okay, as long as i dont connect the speaker. As soon as it’s connected the voltage goes up/down with the frequency of the clicking…

 

I just did 3 of them. Did you replace the capacitor that sits right behind the output transistors?  On the old boards, it's soldered on top of  a SMD capacitor. 

[mfurm]

On 4/16/2023 at 6:17 AM, poulmm said:

Hi BillL001

Great, you got your sub running again. 🙂 Pleased i could help you to save some $$$. 🙂

Just wanted to common on thing here:
A) As you right about now knowing if the jumper would cause fire... It can't, the +5 stand by supply is really low current supply for the Op-amps only. So don't be worry about that. 
As i write, the only thing the jumper do, is add constant +5 volt supply for the LM324 Op-amp.

I did long time test on sweep and load test on the complte PSU & Amp, and all work as it shall.
Including the "Auto" sound detect start and ~15-20min Auto shutdown function.

The only thing, i will say to DIY people out there: Mount the Resistor external on the ALU plate (main chassis plate) and add some wires from the external resistor to the PCB. Sorry BillL001 i don't like the copper solution you showed on the pictures. It could cause a serious short on the PCB. Better be safe than sorry. 🙂 

That was the reason i did it the resistor external mounted to get any heat away from the PCB. See attached picture. Also there are some massive vibrations inside this subwoofer. I don't think the "flying" resistor solution is great on the long term use. Think it would fail over time. Because of the solder pads should hold the weight of the resistor, but also the soldering it self will be bad over time. Cause all the heat and cold all the time, the soldering it self will problerly be/get a cold soldering over time. Not so nice... So make the repair the Right way them things will last. 🙂
Some will question the external resistor, now there are wires in between, but technical the wires would only add <1 ohm to the 820ohn the resistor, nothing to say. So no problems here. 🙂


The part number for the chassis resistor:
RS components :809-8718 820 ohm

OR
Mouse: https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ARCOL-Ohmite/AP851-820R-J-100PPM?qs=LJ1pyEEo5rYLMw1VfmR0rA%3D%3D

There are many other resistor model, i just found this 820 ohm, it's was easy mount type. You can use what ever you feel. 🙂

Please feel free to ask if there are any question. 🙂
 

 

What wiring did you use here from the resistor to the board, and what does the other end look like when soldered to the board? Did you solder both ends? thanks!

[ThueT]

One of my R 115 SW amps died. I have ordered a new. I plan on installing a supersilent PC type fan to blow some air on the amp. Could someone show me where the heat comes from/ the best place to aim the fan?

[Xxerby]

Hello everyone,

 

Excuse my translation, I am French, more precisely from Montpellier.

 

I just finished repairing my 115SW after almost 50 hours. I searched all the blogs, forums, videos that could allow me to fix it. I had at my disposal two HS amps. One of the two was used to do some retro engineering.

 

I wanted to thank you for the valuable information on this particular blog. I wanted to share with you all the information I have gathered.

 

Here is a quick description of my problem:

LED indicator on, no sound output. After opening, I noticed that the amp had already been repaired or rather that the previous owner had tried.

 

I checked all the power supplies, various filters and preamp. 

 

The power board is functional

 

The power resistance and the person who tried to repair the amp destroyed several tracks and component.

After repairing and cleaning all the damage, I replaced all the capacitors as recommended as well as the power resistor with a ceramic resistor of 820R 10W.

 

After making all these changes, injecting a sinusoidal signal in 20 Hz input using a mobile app, I could see with an oscilloscope a continuous component on the output and peaks at +63V intermittently.

 

Using the documentation and the application note I checked all the voltages. 

 

At the end of the comparator (COMP) I had a good frequency square signal, so the problem came from the corner. 

Both VREF and OCSET resistors are out of service and the IRS has burned on one side. The symptom I had was overcurrent protection that was characterized by a triangular signal on the CSD pin. The amp goes into error and the capacitor discharges. The amp restarts and the voltage rises gradually and this indefinitely, which creates a triangular signal. CSD is easily visible on the via located in front of the CON/-15V/GND/+15V connector next to R50. (AN P7/P8)

 

Here is the summary of everything I had to fix: 
- PWM IC Replacement (IRS2092)
- Reconstruction of two runways (between Q15 and Q3 and between RA4 and RA5)
- Replacement of a bipolar capacitor (C10)
- Bipolar Replacement (Q15)
- Replacement of all capacitors and power resistor
- Replacement of two SMD resistors near IRS (R08 and R11)

 

I attach several images and files that can help. The diagrams are not necessarily complete but can help.

 

These are the schematics I mad :

 

https://ibb.co/H4x2WyQ
https://ibb.co/5XQhkWL
https://ibb.co/T0Gh9Bx

 

I hope this information will help you in your repair, good luck.

 

https://320volt.com/en/400w-claas-d-subwoofer-amplifier-circuit-irs2092/ (most faithful schematic)

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.fr/datasheet-pdf/view/25416/STMICROELECTRONICS/TL082C.html (TL082C 2OP -> Phase inverter)

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.fr/datasheet-pdf/view/22753/STMICROELECTRONICS/LM324.html (LM324 4 AOP)

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.fr/datasheet-pdf/view/25399/STMICROELECTRONICS/TL074C.html (TL074C 4 AOP)

https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irs2092.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a401535675f1be2790 (IRS DOC)

https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/an-1138.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a40153559a077610d1 (IRS AN)

Edited December 20, 2023 by Xxerby

[kdammen]

Thank you Xxerby for all this information. That will greatly help repair these. 

 

I have one where the power led isn't turning on and the power supply isn't turning on. I can manually turn on the power supply and it's outputting power. I've replaced all caps, resistor, and transistor. Not sure where to look next. 

Edited December 21, 2023 by kdammen

[Roamin]

Just joined this forum to share my experience. I have 2 SPL-100 subwoofers that share a very similar amplifier. Part number is : PD-BFS-R110SW-V1 . Manufactured 20180522. The subs have a 200w power supply. My issue started just a few months out of warranty, I contacted Klipsch but I was told they don't do international warranty (I'm in Canada) and directed me to a local repair center (local , but still kinda far). My issue was that every few minutes I would hear a "Pop" coming from the sub. It took me a while to even understand that pop was coming from my sub, and probably only did when it started doing it very frequently.. I unplugged the sub for a while since I have 2 but I got lazy and I never sent the amp for repair at the repair shop.. Eventually I plugged it back in and by then the "Pop" wasn't there anymore.. I figured I got lucky and the issue went away. Few days ago I wanted to add more bass so I went for the gain on both subs and realized , the sub wasn't working at all! Even though the green power light was on, it was dead. So I'm guessing I went for at least a year with 1 sub down and didn't even notice.. So began the search to see if anyone had repaired this thing before and I ended up in this thread. Not having done any research at all on this problem before I read through the entire thread. Most people here speak of overheating resistors, cooked capacitors, dead transistor but my board had nothing of the sorts. All the bigger wattage resistors were all clean , no busted caps, nothing. Even the main transistor is different in my build , it's a simple TIP31C. The resistor driving it is a 470 ohms, which is intact. Having 2 identical subs I decided to open the second one and start comparing stuff. I quickly found that in the working one , the resistor had -4 volts on it but on the dead sub that voltage was at -0.492 volts. At one point , by accident I noticed that if I powered on the amp it would work for about 3 seconds and the voltage would raise to -0.492 volts (I say raise because its a negative voltage). I tested the amp by putting my finger on the cable plugged into the left channel just to hear a hum caused by noise. After 3 seconds it would die and would only work if I waited about 10 minutes with it powered off. Since this was constant, I figured it's not a passive component like a resistor or transistor because those usually work or don't but ever rarely are they intermittent like this, especially if they have no signs of damage. So I decided to go take a look at the datasheet for the IRS2092 to see if it has any type of protection , which is frequent in ICs and sure enough it has an over-current protection. It was then I realized that the "Pop" sound I had been hearing all this time was caused by this IC, constantly cutting off the power causing the "Pop" and then resetting back to normal operation right away. Since over-current should come from the MOSFET (in my case , my board uses a dual MOSTFET instead of 2 independent parts, part # IRFI4019HG) the easiest thing to try quickly was to move the MOSTFET from one amp to the other and so I swapped both parts. Unfortunately the dead amp remained dead and actually it stopped turning on for 3 seconds, but the working one still worked with the swapped MOSFET, telling me both parts are working. I didn't want to swap the IRC2092 from one amp to the other because it's somewhat tough to access and removing it to re-install it somewhere else might not be the best thing. I started looking around if this component had a high failure rate and for any other information I could gather and found some on the DIYaudio forums. While the failure rate doesn't seem astronomical on this part, it's a very common part , used a lot in the DIYers community and I came across a post by "nigelwright7557" that said, the IRS2092 is fussy , large MOSFET gate capacitance will trigger the overload protection, if the MOSFETs go it usually takes the IRC2092 with it too so change them both. So I went on Digikey, ordered both the IRS2092, the IRFI4019HG , and also all capacitors on the board just in case (the list is exactly the same as the picture in Xxerby's post). I figured , can't hurt to have to capacitors in case. Got the parts the following day and installed them both (I didn't change any capacitors at all) and voilà! The subwoofer lives! I didn't need to change the MOSFET because the original one of this board is now in the amp that worked and this board had the one from the working amp after I had swapped them.. but I figured may as well put both parts , since they only were 5$ CAD each.

A quick explanation as to why the transistor (TIP31c on my board) turns off when the protection kicks in is that there is a pin, CSD, as mentionned by Xxerby that is part of the auto-protection circuit. This pin feeds the power for the transistor and when the protection kicks in , even though the transistor is still closed (voltage on it's base is always present) there is no longer power on it's collector and the IRS2092 is driven by this power , through the emitter. (Thanks @Xxerby for your outlines of the connections on your board, it helped me figure this part out since my board is full of white silicone and not glue like the boards in this thread). In the end the IRS2092 failed and kept triggering the auto-protection , even though there was no over-current situation, causing a "Pop" every time the chip would reset...

The end.  Sorry for the book, but hopefully it helps others in the future.

[eduardofsjr]

Hello,

 

I have a R-115SW unit since 2019. For the last 6 months I left it disconnected (no power cord and no signal cable).

 

Now I turned it on: front LED is on, but no sound (buzz test failed too).

 

I can’t see any burned component. I tried to check some voltages:

 

+5 VDC: OK

+-15 VDC: zero

+- 62 VDC: zero

 

I disconnected the cables that go to audio pcb.

 

I had read here in this topic about connecting 5V to PSON/OFF: still no +-15V or +-62V (CN2).

Edit: different GNDs (15V and 5V connectors), so disconsider this PSON part, because GNDs were not connected.

Edit 2: still no 15V or 62V, even with grounds properly connected and PSON = 5V

 

Any suggestion?

Edited January 22 by eduardofsjr

[Rossi32s]

On 1/4/2024 at 12:26 AM, Roamin said:

Just joined this forum to share my experience. I have 2 SPL-100 subwoofers that share a very similar amplifier. Part number is : PD-BFS-R110SW-V1 . Manufactured 20180522. The subs have a 200w power supply. My issue started just a few months out of warranty, I contacted Klipsch but I was told they don't do international warranty (I'm in Canada) and directed me to a local repair center (local , but still kinda far). My issue was that every few minutes I would hear a "Pop" coming from the sub. It took me a while to even understand that pop was coming from my sub, and probably only did when it started doing it very frequently.. I unplugged the sub for a while since I have 2 but I got lazy and I never sent the amp for repair at the repair shop.. Eventually I plugged it back in and by then the "Pop" wasn't there anymore.. I figured I got lucky and the issue went away. Few days ago I wanted to add more bass so I went for the gain on both subs and realized , the sub wasn't working at all! Even though the green power light was on, it was dead. So I'm guessing I went for at least a year with 1 sub down and didn't even notice.. So began the search to see if anyone had repaired this thing before and I ended up in this thread. Not having done any research at all on this problem before I read through the entire thread. Most people here speak of overheating resistors, cooked capacitors, dead transistor but my board had nothing of the sorts. All the bigger wattage resistors were all clean , no busted caps, nothing. Even the main transistor is different in my build , it's a simple TIP31C. The resistor driving it is a 470 ohms, which is intact. Having 2 identical subs I decided to open the second one and start comparing stuff. I quickly found that in the working one , the resistor had -4 volts on it but on the dead sub that voltage was at -0.492 volts. At one point , by accident I noticed that if I powered on the amp it would work for about 3 seconds and the voltage would raise to -0.492 volts (I say raise because its a negative voltage). I tested the amp by putting my finger on the cable plugged into the left channel just to hear a hum caused by noise. After 3 seconds it would die and would only work if I waited about 10 minutes with it powered off. Since this was constant, I figured it's not a passive component like a resistor or transistor because those usually work or don't but ever rarely are they intermittent like this, especially if they have no signs of damage. So I decided to go take a look at the datasheet for the IRS2092 to see if it has any type of protection , which is frequent in ICs and sure enough it has an over-current protection. It was then I realized that the "Pop" sound I had been hearing all this time was caused by this IC, constantly cutting off the power causing the "Pop" and then resetting back to normal operation right away. Since over-current should come from the MOSFET (in my case , my board uses a dual MOSTFET instead of 2 independent parts, part # IRFI4019HG) the easiest thing to try quickly was to move the MOSTFET from one amp to the other and so I swapped both parts. Unfortunately the dead amp remained dead and actually it stopped turning on for 3 seconds, but the working one still worked with the swapped MOSFET, telling me both parts are working. I didn't want to swap the IRC2092 from one amp to the other because it's somewhat tough to access and removing it to re-install it somewhere else might not be the best thing. I started looking around if this component had a high failure rate and for any other information I could gather and found some on the DIYaudio forums. While the failure rate doesn't seem astronomical on this part, it's a very common part , used a lot in the DIYers community and I came across a post by "nigelwright7557" that said, the IRS2092 is fussy , large MOSFET gate capacitance will trigger the overload protection, if the MOSFETs go it usually takes the IRC2092 with it too so change them both. So I went on Digikey, ordered both the IRS2092, the IRFI4019HG , and also all capacitors on the board just in case (the list is exactly the same as the picture in Xxerby's post). I figured , can't hurt to have to capacitors in case. Got the parts the following day and installed them both (I didn't change any capacitors at all) and voilà! The subwoofer lives! I didn't need to change the MOSFET because the original one of this board is now in the amp that worked and this board had the one from the working amp after I had swapped them.. but I figured may as well put both parts , since they only were 5$ CAD each.

A quick explanation as to why the transistor (TIP31c on my board) turns off when the protection kicks in is that there is a pin, CSD, as mentionned by Xxerby that is part of the auto-protection circuit. This pin feeds the power for the transistor and when the protection kicks in , even though the transistor is still closed (voltage on it's base is always present) there is no longer power on it's collector and the IRS2092 is driven by this power , through the emitter. (Thanks @Xxerby for your outlines of the connections on your board, it helped me figure this part out since my board is full of white silicone and not glue like the boards in this thread). In the end the IRS2092 failed and kept triggering the auto-protection , even though there was no over-current situation, causing a "Pop" every time the chip would reset...

The end.  Sorry for the book, but hopefully it helps others in the future.

Replace the caps around the TIP31,  and replace the cap sitting by itself to the right of the IRS IC.

Did 7+ of these today..

 

[biscuitownz]

Hi everyone,

 

This is a fix for the amp powering on for a some time and then turning off by itself. This is a better method compared to what was mentioned earlier about "jumpering" the 5V input to the amp turn on control pin as this bypasses the auto turn-on circuit and might even make the power switch unless.

 

This method allows you to retain the auto turn-on feature and the use of the power switch. 

 

Connect a ~4.7k resistor to pin 1 of Q7 (located next to the 5V connector) and ground. This PNP transistor provides 5V power to the auto turn-on circuit and without it the amp will not turn on. 

 

The problem is the base of Q7 no longer gets pulled down and 5V is no longer supplied to the circuit, which turns off the enable signal for the power supply. I'm not sure why this happens and it has been difficult to trace back without a schematic.

 

Also, don't waste your money on buying "audio grade" capacitors for this repair. All of the capacitors on here are either for decoupling, reserve, or timing. None of them are in the path for audio as this is a class D amp. Just get the cheapest capacitor from a reputable brand and you'll be fine. 

 

I have a lot of experience with the IRS2092 and have designed a few amps using this driver. If there are any questions regarding the output stage I will be happy to assist.

[Superkala]

I have the RS-115sw does anybody repair these? My light is off now and not working. Can I buy a new one or send it somewhere for repair?? Please let me know ASAP. Scott 

[Håvardc]

On 11/22/2023 at 4:59 PM, JohnnyWalk3r said:

Hey,

 

I also have the newest version of the Amp with the resistor on the side of the pcb. I already replaced my Caps, but i still just get a clicking sound every second from it. The voltage from the Base of the two small Transistors stays at 0V, the voltage from the Big transistor Base is okay, as long as i dont connect the speaker. As soon as it’s connected the voltage goes up/down with the frequency of the clicking…

Hey Johnny.

Did you get the amp running? I also have the new version and get the klikking sound. If replacing all the caps doesn't help, I would like to know what does. I don't want to do the unnecessary job of removing the glue and changing all the caps if the problem lies elsewhere.

There is some yellow resedue on top of  one of the large 1000uh capacitors, but don't know if its sweat or some marking form the factory. 

Edited January 20 by Håvardc

[eduardofsjr]

On 1/10/2024 at 10:56 PM, eduardofsjr said:

Hello,

 

I have a R-115SW unit since 2019. For the last 6 months I left it disconnected (no power cord and no signal cable).

 

Now I turned it on: front LED is on, but no sound (buzz test failed too).

 

I can’t see any burned component. I tried to check some voltages:

 

+5 VDC: OK

+-15 VDC: zero

+- 62 VDC: zero

 

I disconnected the cables that go to audio pcb.

 

I had read here in this topic about connecting 5V to PSON/OFF: still no +-15V or +-62V (CN2).

Edit: different GNDs (15V and 5V connectors), so disconsider this PSON part, because GNDs were not connected.

 

Any suggestion?

Update:

 

7915A regulator (U3):

Input: -0,43 V

 

A6069H (U50):

Vcc: 9,43 V

Edited January 22 by eduardofsjr

[DerHouy]

Hi folks,

 

I got an SPL-120 very similar to these r115-sw ones. The problem is hearing heartbeat every 2-3 seconds with a moving membrane without any signal providing. I simply plug it in and it starts doing that pop sound. I switches the main capacitors, because one on the main side was leaking but still the same problem.

I just tested the small capacitors directly under the minus-speaker-pole and there are C83/84/85. C83 does a beep sound on my multimeter, ther other 2 not. Can this be the problem? Every other capacitor looks fine. What capacitor is C83 if it's broken? What do you guys think?

 

Edited January 22 by DerHouy
image added

[DerHouy]

@Roamin Oh man I got the SPL-120. I hope it's not the thing you described on my one. What did you pay for this stuff?

[Rossi32s]

On 1/19/2024 at 11:44 PM, Superkala said:

I have the RS-115sw does anybody repair these? My light is off now and not working. Can I buy a new one or send it somewhere for repair?? Please let me know ASAP. Scott 

I do...  google the company name in my profile picture

[Rossi32s]

11 hours ago, DerHouy said:

Hi folks,

 

I got an SPL-120 very similar to these r115-sw ones. The problem is hearing heartbeat every 2-3 seconds with a moving membrane without any signal providing. I simply plug it in and it starts doing that pop sound. I switches the main capacitors, because one on the main side was leaking but still the same problem.

I just tested the small capacitors directly under the minus-speaker-pole and there are C83/84/85. C83 does a beep sound on my multimeter, ther other 2 not. Can this be the problem? Every other capacitor looks fine. What capacitor is C83 if it's broken? What do you guys think?

 

Replace the 22uf 50v capacitor that is in the top left edge of your picture; you can see just the very edge of it in black.  

[Rossi32s]

On 1/20/2024 at 1:47 PM, Håvardc said:

Hey Johnny.

Did you get the amp running? I also have the new version and get the klikking sound. If replacing all the caps doesn't help, I would like to know what does. I don't want to do the unnecessary job of removing the glue and changing all the caps if the problem lies elsewhere.

There is some yellow resedue on top of  one of the large 1000uh capacitors, but don't know if its sweat or some marking form the factory. 

Change the one circled in red..  22uf 50v  

[Roamin]

7 hours ago, DerHouy said:

@Roamin Oh man I got the SPL-120. I hope it's not the thing you described on my one. What did you pay for this stuff?

Measure the voltage on the big resistor that is connected to the power transistor in the middle of the board (in my case it's a TIP31C). Does it change every time your amp pops? If so the IRS2092 is most likely to blame.. The short circuit protection kicks in and then resets , causing the woofer to pop constantly. The part is 5$ CAD from Digikey.. search for IRS2092STRPBFCT-ND on their site.  You might want to change a few caps too, it can't hurt.

 

About that beep on your capacitor, does it beep constantly or does it stop after a moment? Does it beep if you reverse the probes ? If it stops after a moment or doesn't beep with probes reversed I wouldn't worry about it. Are the voltages present on the connectors? 5V ? +-15v +-62 (on my specific board it's +-45v)? If all voltages are there I really wouldn't worry about that capacitor, it's common to have capacitors on power lines making the meter beep for a short moment , or sometimes with the probes in one way but not the other , depending on the circuit configuration..
 

 

On 1/10/2024 at 10:26 PM, Rossi32s said:

Replace the caps around the TIP31,  and replace the cap sitting by itself to the right of the IRS IC.

Did 7+ of these today..
 

The caps on my board are fine, only the IRS2092 needed to be changed. On my specific board , for a SPL-100 sub , the resistor doesn't get hot at all and no parts around it were worn or damaged.

[DerHouy]

Thanks @Rossi32s and @Roamin I'll try that. Thanks for all the information and help.
@Roamin It does constantly beep with probes reversed too. I haven't measured the voltage because I got no real tools, only a multimeter without capacity test. I'm also a very beginner, I just watched tons of videos and tried to use the short circuit method and resistance to find bad stuff. Would try the voltage but seen so many people saying I shouldn't if I don't have proper equipment for safety.

[Roamin]

18 hours ago, DerHouy said:

Thanks @Rossi32s and @Roamin I'll try that. Thanks for all the information and help.
@Roamin It does constantly beep with probes reversed too. I haven't measured the voltage because I got no real tools, only a multimeter without capacity test. I'm also a very beginner, I just watched tons of videos and tried to use the short circuit method and resistance to find bad stuff. Would try the voltage but seen so many people saying I shouldn't if I don't have proper equipment for safety.

 

I wouldn't worry about this capacitor for now. How does the one just above, C85 , react? Does it also beep? Those cap are right in the vicinity of the 2 jumpers that are in place of coils and it's very possible that they are in parallel with those jumpers (which are labelled as coils on the board) and could have been to suppress interference around those coils..

 

The very first thing to focus on in any reparation is always the voltage. A multimeter that can read DC voltage up to around 100v is all you really need in order to measure voltage in this amplifier and if you are stable enough when handling the probes, there shouldn't be any risks at all. One of the first thing I was thought in school when I learned electronics was that when you are about to measure something with your probes , you always place at least 1 finger from each hands or part of the hand on a stable surface and never have your hands just floating around. It stabilizes your hands and the probes and you have less chances of slipping and shorting something with the probes.  The voltages on this board are quite easy to measure if your probes are thin enough to simply insert them in the pins on the side where the wires come into the sockets. The cable that has 2 wires is labeled with 5v and GND. Keeping your black probe on the GND pin you can measure all the voltages with the red probe. You can measure the 5v on that connector , the +15/-15 on the connector with 4 wires, and the -42/+42(or 62 volts depending on the board) from the thicker wired 3 pin connector. You can also measure the voltage on the big resistor I mentioned before and see if it fluctuates from -0.4 to -4 volts. If it fluctuates with every pop , the irs2092 is most likely acting up..  You might need help changing that part though because it is not easy to do since it has small pins and it is in an awkward location.. But if you pinpoint the problem you can probably have someone change that chip (and maybe some capacitors too) for you.