Bar 48 No-Power Repair Thread

[KevinB]

6 hours ago, Ronzues said:

my Cinema 600 died one month short of 3 years

The BAR series and Cinema series soundbars have had their ongoing issues. Thankfully, Klipsch has been providing warranty replacements, sometimes even outside the warranty period. 😉

[ongtw75]

On 3/10/2022 at 7:11 PM, ongtw75 said:

Hi everyone, I'm new to this community and recently found this thread on fixing the Bar 48. 

I'm a speaker repair hobbyist and recently a customer brought to me his Bar 48, complaining of no power. 

 

As SixerFixer has already written, the problem is related to the 5V output of the smps. Basically the smps could not sustain 5V when the sound processor chip is drawing current to power up the system, resulting in the voltage dipping to 2.7V. Thereafter the chip may sort of hangs itself and releases the drawing current, thereafter the voltage will rise back towards 5V.

 

I've pin point the failure to be caused by C05 and C06, both being 220uF 16V electrolytic capacitors. There may not be any visible damage. 

For my case, 1 capacitor measured 169uF with ESR 0.4ohm, the other 30uF with ESR 4.5ohm. The latter part is closest to D02 (rectifying diode for this circuit).

 

 

 

My initial fix was to replace the 2 capacitors with similar size and specifications type. The speaker did work properly however both capacitors were running very hot and it's only a matter of time before they will fail again. Without going much into technical discussion, basically the board requires very low ESR type capacitors to sustain a longer life span.

 

My final fix is to replace C05 with 2x 100uF 50V (United Chemi-con KY series) capacitors soldered in parallel. This capacitor measures with ESR of about 0.17ohm. By connecting them in parallel, I effectively half the ESR but double the capacitance to 200uF (short of 20uF but still good enough). You may try purchasing a low ESR type capacitor of the same 220uF 16V, but I find it nearly impossible to have the right size that fits.

 

I've also taken the opportunity to remove some of the silicon rubber glue surrounding D02 in order to give better cooling to that area.

 

 

The extra capacitor is inserted onto C44A. The leads needed to be bent slightly to fit in the space. I've also deliberately mounted it in 'reverse polarity' with the aim of using the copper traces beneath for bridging.

 

 

Below shows how the soldering was done. The yellow 'L' is kapton tape, to ensure no accidental bridging between those traces.

 

 

The end result is that all the capacitors running cool to touch. I'll presume with cooler temperatures, this smps should last much longer than intended.

Hope this info is useful for anyone out there. 

 

Cheers!

Hello everyone!

 

Following on from my 1st post back in 3/10/2022, I've since fixed a few Cinema 600 power supply boards for other owners. They all had the same failure with capacitors C05 and C06. I replaced them with 220uF 16V part from NCC (Nippon Chemi-Con) KZE series. This is not a common size part. You may use 220uF 25V instead but it'll be a tight fit.

 

As some others have noted here, the +5V and ground cable colors seem to deviate from set to set. For those having problem with their power units from Amazon, do trace the respective cables back to the amplifier board (left most connector) and wire them accordingly. I've attached a photo here for reference.

 

STB need not be connected, it's only needed with the original power board. You can safely insulate it with electrical tape and tuck it away. 

Edited March 19 by ongtw75

[lexus]

Guys thanks so much for this info on Bar 48 i had a similar issue of no power at sound bar,bought the power module from amazon and followed the instructions on how to wire it up,the new module powered up okay but still my soundabar didnt respond,i have tried everything on this thread but i gues mine had another issue.i really hate to throw in the towel by throwing it in the trash can.i really love the sound but i guess its time we part ways.

[lexus]

guys thanks for this wonderful tips,i had the same issue with my 48 soundbar not powering up,bought the power module from amazon,followed the instructions to the tee from sixerfixer but unfortunately my soundbar didnt come back to life.

[dogfoodboy]

Thanks to the content posters - fixed my 600 for $12

[OO1]

On 3/19/2024 at 9:37 PM, lexus said:

guys thanks for this wonderful tips,i had the same issue with my 48 soundbar not powering up,bought the power module from amazon,followed the instructions to the tee from sixerfixer but unfortunately my soundbar didnt come back to life.

are you sure you wired the new PS correctly ?     

[badhabit_wb]

I had the same issue with my cinema 600 soundbar. The c05 and c06 caps were shot. I replaced them with these from Amazon and it's working fine now https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072SS83BF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1    Evidently they had been going bad for a while because the external speakers are working much better too.

I joined so that I could thank those that came up with this fix. Sure beats buying a new system.

Edited March 26 by badhabit_wb
wanted to add thank you

[GburgAdress]

I want to also add my voice to everyone here who has thanked Sixer for starting this thread, and to the Cinema 600 owners who joined in to include and clarify the experiences they had with our version of the soundbar. We purchased the Cinema 600 just over 3 years ago. Last month we had the exact same symptoms that have been described here, the audio getting a little static-y, followed by problems powering up and then the lights not coming on and then getting that one red light before the next time after that trying to turn it on and kaput...  nothing. A quick internet search brought me to this thread, I read through it, and even though I have absolutely no electronics experience and am not a DIY'er at all, the postings in this thread gave me a clear enough vision and the confidence to tackle the task of retrieving a hardly-ever used set of gifted allen wrenches, disemboweling the sound bar and replacing that good-for-nothing ETOP power supply (although okay, it did make it through 3 years of not very heavy use).

 

Like most here, I got the NOYITO replacement for $15 off Amazon (only 1 left in-stock the last time I saw about 5 days ago, must be a lot of us replacing Klipsch soundbar power supplies). Long story short, my replacement worked, my soundbar is back in business, I am bragging to everyone who listens about my newly acquired electronics skills, and I am grateful to all here who shared.

 

I also did splurge and got an inexpensive multimeter/voltmeter. That came in handy to verify, before unplugging, snipping wires and removing the ETOP, that yes, had 120V AC going in, had 24V DC coming out on the larger output wires, but only had about 3V coming out on the smaller output wires. It also helped me verify the outputs on the new power supply, that as described elsewhere here as you are looking at it from that output side, 24V are the two on the left and 5V are the two on the right. It also verified for me that the NOYITO was marked correctly, with the two positive outputs being on the far left and right of the four, and the two negative outputs being the two in the middle. I can also add to the verification that for my Cinema 600 for the smaller 5V wires, white was GND, black was VDD and red was SBY, and I twisted the VDD and SBY together onto the +5V output of the new power supply.

 

Now, yes, the NOYITO is about the same width, but shorter in length than the ETOP, and the metal heat sink grates, which are bigger and placed differently on the circuit board, don't seem to easily allow you to use one of the existing mounting holes in the soundbar backplate. I see here that some people have drilled new holes in the backplate to mount. I did not find that convenient for my 600, so I just have my replacement power supply sitting unmounted in there. The heat sinks do lay against the inside of the casing, but so far, the area has only felt tepidly warm to me. If that turns out to be an issue down the road, I would have to go back in there and figure out how and where to drill a new mounting hole or holes and get it to slide in and fit in there mounted to the backplate given that the size and orientation of the heat sinks make that harder to do.

 

So, thanks again to Sixer and everyone here. This fix worked for my Cinema 600 soundbar. If Klipsch is smart and monitoring this, I want them to know that their reputation for quality has taken a hit with me. Being 3 years out, I did not choose to call them. But, it would have gone a long way with me if I had seen on their website a troubleshooting description of all of this, an acknowledgement of the customer experiences with these ETOP power supplies, and the offer of an inexpensive replacement that would include detailed and easy-to-follow instructions for doing so. In my book, that would have really set them apart in my eyes and gone a long way to enhance their reputation with me and win me over as a loyal long-term customer.

[Kenhugh]

On 2024/2/8 at AM3點19分, jondur said:

Thanks for posting this repair solution.  I purchased a replacement power supply board for my Bar 48 that won’t power up,  I wired it in and checked output voltages and polarity but the unit still won’t power up.  
 

I’m at a loss now, any recommendations on common other causes?  
 

My Bluetooth sub may be a candidate for converting to analog input (might as well get the most out of what’s left).

 

 

 

In my Bar48 case  if VDD and STB connect with +5V , It worked for a while and then lost power again.Can't power on again . so I study this post say you can disconnect STB no plug in +5V ,  keep it disconnect.  It work great! my Bar 48 can work again.

Edited April 17 by Kenhugh

[Matt in LA]

Here we are in April 2024 and my 2 1/2 year old Cinema 600 has dies, I presume with the same problem. I ordered the power supply. What are the names and size tamper proof screws on the back? I want to put in regualr screws because obviously these things need to be tampered with! - Thanks 

[Kenhugh]

4 hours ago, Matt in LA said:

Here we are in April 2024 and my 2 1/2 year old Cinema 600 has dies, I presume with the same problem. I ordered the power supply. What are the names and size tamper proof screws on the back? I want to put in regualr screws because obviously these things need to be tampered with! - Thanks 

I used the T15 & T9 Torx Screwdriver open my Bar48.

[Matt in LA]

Thanks Kenhugh!

[Matt in LA]

You might want to sit down before you read this: I contacted Klipsch and let them know that I had seen this was an on-going fairly common problem and wondered if they were covering it with an extended warranty. THEY ARE REPLACING MY CINEMA 600 WITH AN 800!!! They no longer make the 600 so they are replacing it with the 800. I'm so gobsmacked, I'm telling myself that I'll believe it when it shows up (in 5-10 business days). I'm wondering if I am delusional when I read the e-mail and receipt for it!  That was a short shelf life for the 600 so my guess is they quit making them because of the power supply problem. This problem has to be costing Klipsch a lot.  Not to be ungrateful but I hope the 800 has a more robust PS. At least, now I'm ready. If it has the same power supply, when it goes, I have the one I just got from Amazon! LOL! (and bonus: Now I know I need a set or Torx drivers!) Thank you Klipsch! 

[KevinB]

3 hours ago, Matt in LA said:

THEY ARE REPLACING MY CINEMA 600 WITH AN 800!!!

After my second BAR 48 died, Klipsch gave me a Cinema 600. It had just become available. Unfortunately, it only lasted a few months. I was then given a Cinema 800.

 

Search these community forums for "Cinema 800" to learn more.

 

Both the Cinema 800 & 1200 have reliability issues too but far fewer than the BAR 48 and the Cinema 600 do. Early firmware updates were a disaster but the latest ones are stable.

 

You should be quite happy with your Cinema 800. I am. 🙂

[Matt in LA]

Thanks Kevin! Fingers crossed! 

[Kenhugh]

On 3/20/2024 at 9:37 AM, lexus said:

guys thanks for this wonderful tips,i had the same issue with my 48 soundbar not powering up,bought the power module from amazon,followed the instructions to the tee from sixerfixer but unfortunately my soundbar didnt come back to life.

Try to unplug STB pin. 

[Rap1800]

On 4/18/2024 at 9:59 AM, Matt in LA said:

You might want to sit down before you read this: I contacted Klipsch and let them know that I had seen this was an on-going fairly common problem and wondered if they were covering it with an extended warranty. THEY ARE REPLACING MY CINEMA 600 WITH AN 800!!! They no longer make the 600 so they are replacing it with the 800. I'm so gobsmacked, I'm telling myself that I'll believe it when it shows up (in 5-10 business days). I'm wondering if I am delusional when I read the e-mail and receipt for it!  That was a short shelf life for the 600 so my guess is they quit making them because of the power supply problem. This problem has to be costing Klipsch a lot.  Not to be ungrateful but I hope the 800 has a more robust PS. At least, now I'm ready. If it has the same power supply, when it goes, I have the one I just got from Amazon! LOL! (and bonus: Now I know I need a set or Torx drivers!) Thank you Klipsch! 

Matt

 

im in the same situation as you.(out of warranty) Did you contact them via email or phone. Just wondering the best way to proceed. I’m not good at repairing anything so will try the warranty route even if it’s a long shot.

[scottv5]

I have the cinema 600 bought the board and did the swap.

It powered right up which was great, BUT the sub now won't power down when the sound bar is turned off.

????

[marco73]

On 4/25/2024 at 6:48 AM, scottv5 said:

I have the cinema 600 bought the board and did the swap.

It powered right up which was great, BUT the sub now won't power down when the sound bar is turned off.

????

 

Hi there, I had the same issue.

I understand that this problem occurs when you connect the STB and the GND. I have the Cinema 600, with the subwoofer and the satellites, and everything stayed on once the soundbar was turned off.
I repaired the original (as some sheets indicated) and replaced the 400v 100uf capacitors and the 16v 220uf ones with new ones, since the regulator was OK, and reassembled with the original parts.

And everything started working perfectly again.