William Blaak Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 (edited) Hello All, I have been a lurker for a while but I finally have something to post. I have a set of Crites AK-3's to replace the stock AK-2. These are the ones with the woofer part of the crossover in the bass bin. How to rewire is not straightforward (to me) as far as the bass, I can build cabs all day but wiring confuses the hell out of me. Has anyone else done this specific swap. I would like to keep the fuses in the circuit. And/or is there by chance a wiring diagram or instructions anywhere, didn't seem to be anything on the Crites site. Thankyou in advance for any input! Edited November 4, 2021 by William Blaak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Travis In Austin Posted November 4, 2021 Moderators Share Posted November 4, 2021 Welcome to the Forum, I know there are some guys who will know how to help you with this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Blaak Posted November 4, 2021 Author Share Posted November 4, 2021 HI Travis, thank you for the welcome, I appreciate it. And yes, I sure hope so! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khornukopia Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 Unscrew and pull the black plastic terminal cup through the opening. Cut a piece of 1/2" thick wood or 3/16" aluminum the same size as the plastic cup flange. Mark and drill for the screw holes on your new plate, using the cup as your template. Zip tie the old cup and intact wires to the other wires on the big capacitors and the inductor, making sure they won't rattle. Drill your new plate for binding posts. Connect new wires from there to the woofer(s). Apply some foam gasket tape to the new plate and close up the woofer chamber. Connect wire from new crossover to the new binding posts. Add fuse holders as desired. Most Klipschorns don't have fuses, so don't let unfused keep you from listening to some music. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khornukopia Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 Yes the fuses are there for a reason, not the same reasons they are used in cars, homes and industry, etc., but if it makes you feel better, please be sure to install fuse holders and the properly rated fuses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Blaak Posted November 4, 2021 Author Share Posted November 4, 2021 (edited) 7 hours ago, Khornukopia said: Unscrew and pull the black plastic terminal cup through the opening. Cut a piece of 1/2" thick wood or 3/16" aluminum the same size as the plastic cup flange. Mark and drill for the screw holes on your new plate, using the cup as your template. Zip tie the old cup and intact wires to the other wires on the big capacitors and the inductor, making sure they won't rattle. Drill your new plate for binding posts. Connect new wires from there to the woofer(s). Apply some foam gasket tape to the new plate and close up the woofer chamber. Connect wire from new crossover to the new binding posts. Add fuse holders as desired. Most Klipschorns don't have fuses, so don't let unfused keep you from listening to some music. Hi Khornukopia, Thank you for the reply and suggestions. I very much like the idea of just replacing and keeping original wiring in tact. Unfortunately though, I don't have any access to a shop or my tools at the moment. But I like this Edited November 4, 2021 by William Blaak Technical clarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboxler Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 Here's what I made... Another option is to replace each 70uf capacitor with a 50uf and be done with the woofer section. The inductor should be fine. Then run a cable from the HF output of the terminal cup to the HF input of the crossover. Mike 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Blaak Posted November 4, 2021 Author Share Posted November 4, 2021 (edited) AHA!! I 'think' I have it figured out. I just need to disconnect the inductor from the fuse, connect the + and connect the - to any ground point. And... actually... I don't think I need to disconnect that cap since that is just to ground, and disconnecting the inductor/original speaker leads takes that all out of the circuit(?). Edited November 4, 2021 by William Blaak Technical clarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Blaak Posted November 4, 2021 Author Share Posted November 4, 2021 31 minutes ago, mboxler said: Here's what I made... Another option is to replace each 70uf capacitor with a 50uf and be done with the woofer section. The inductor should be fine. Then run a cable from the HF output of the terminal cup to the HF input of the crossover. Mike Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboxler Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 Just to be clear... Run a wire from the terminal cup input straight to the K-33, removing the connection to the inductor. Run cables from your amp to the new AK-3 sitting in the top hat. Run cables from woofer out to the bottom terminal cup terminals. Run cables from squawker out and tweeter out to the K-55 and K-77 (terminal cup not used). The upper terminals on the terminal cup will be unconnected (looking from the outside). Clever, as long as you know that the low pass fuse is now between the crossover and the K-33 and the high pass fuse is now unused. That should be okay. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Blaak Posted November 4, 2021 Author Share Posted November 4, 2021 (edited) 5 minutes ago, mboxler said: Just to be clear... Run a wire from the terminal cup input straight to the K-33, removing the connection to the inductor. Run cables from your amp to the new AK-3 sitting in the top hat. Run cables from woofer out to the bottom terminal cup terminals. Run cables from squawker out and tweeter out to the K-55 and K-77 (terminal cup not used). The upper terminals on the terminal cup will be unconnected (looking from the outside). Clever, as long as you know that the low pass fuse is now between the crossover and the K-33 and the high pass fuse is now unused. That should be okay. Mike Awesome! Thanks for that, confirms my above. The rest of the hook up and wiring is pretty straightforward, it was the bass bin wiring so I can use the current jacks, and keep the disconnects to a minimum. Edited November 4, 2021 by William Blaak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 From my emails... "I charge xxx to build those, but charge xxxx to help you make them work." I am no fan of the split network solution, the crappy soldering, or the green/sticky monster cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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