Quartet Clear Oak Restoration

[Micklipsch]

Figure this'll be my first time delving into a restore so what better than to make yet another thread about it, right? Well, hopefully the nuance of it will help others down the line.

I did research the forum as well as the Internet at large for resto projects and advice, but I'm hoping to glean more tailored advice from some of the seasoned pros here like @314carpenter, @OO1or my friend @Iteachstem. Some key things I learned was to use sanding as a last resort, and if you have to, feather the areas around the trouble spot to avoid divets, and that utilizing stripper can be less invasive than believed. I made an initial post regarding the acquisition of these as well as some initial pictures that can be found here:

Couple upfront questions:

 

1. Is Clear Oak a lacquer finish?
2. What's an acceptable product to simply use to wipe down and clean it with? I have Old English Lemon Oil on hand. Is this acceptable for this finish?

I'm thinking I can probably get away with just re-doing the tops, and using a good rejuvenating product on the sides. I'm going to post pictures of the trouble areas and would appreciate advice on how to best attack those areas. Posting pics in their own replies so folks can easily reply to the trouble area. Thanks! 

[Micklipsch]

[Micklipsch]

Some sort of staining that ran down the side. Hoping a cleaner/ conditioner resolves that. Otherwise, a scuff on the riser and some drywall transfer probably from being handled foolishly. I fingernail scraped it all off. I'm thinking just sand the damaged veneers at the corners where it's hanging off and just let it be. Not sure how to remove that dark scuff without removing the lacquer color though, as the color came off pretty easy when trying to address the pen ink on the top of one.

[Micklipsch]

This looks to be pen ink, and as you can tell I got a little too vigorous with trying to remove it.

[Micklipsch]

Tan colored wood filler here perhaps? And the other area is simply rough where I'm thinking maybe 000 steel just to debur then finish with best protectant?

[Micklipsch]

This was a surprising find, as I was only able to see it when the sun was beaming at that extreme angle on them. One of the tops of 1 speaker has very slight bubbling likely from a liquid as there are some slight discolorations around the area. I read about using a slightly damp cloth over them and ironing them back flat?

[Micklipsch]

This is the cleaner/ conditioner I have on hand. Just wondering if it's the best thing or if there's something better. Pics of the speakers show small little discoloration issues that I'm thinking will be resolved simply using a conditioner.

[JohnJ]

Those have got some good potential!

Keep us updated on them @Micklipsch

[Micklipsch]

1 hour ago, JohnJ said:

Those have got some good potential!

Keep us updated on them @Micklipsch

I think so, too! I'll absolutely keep the updates comin'. Just waiting for some wood sages to chime in before I start crackin'. 

[JohnJ]

Looks like sanding and re-sealing might be needed for the deep scratch/stains!

[Micklipsch]

37 minutes ago, JohnJ said:

Looks like sanding and re-sealing might be needed for the deep scratch/stains!

Thankfully no deep scratches, just that bit of chipped veneer and the burs on that corner. Perhaps after a light cleaning with a scotchbrite and some mineral spirits I can use this .

Not sure which tone would be best though

[Micklipsch]

If I can manage to remove those red stains on the top of one of them with that olive oil and salt trick, perhaps I won't even need to refinish the tops?

[OO1]

there's  a Canadian product called TRADE SECRET , sold on Amazon , easy to use  wipe-on   , try it   before stripping or sanding 

https://www.tradesecret.ca/?page_id=789

 

For the heavy scratches   saw dust mixed with glue +  colored wax crayons can fill-in   areas lacking   veneer , 

 

For  removing the  pen ink ,  a magic eraser 

[winglet]

4 hours ago, Micklipsch said:

One of the tops of 1 speaker has very slight bubbling likely from a liquid as there are some slight discolorations around the area. I read about using a slightly damp cloth over them and ironing them back flat?

That may work if it’s an air bubble in the veneer.  
 

More likely it’s water intrusion that’s caused the mdf to swell below the veneer.  I have a pair of kg3.5 in satin black oak veneer with similar swelling and I’m leaving them as is.  I think anything to try to fix it may make it worse.  

[Iteachstem]

My 2 cents: Sand them carefully.  Sanding is the only way to get the water damage out on the top of the one speaker along with the several additional scratches. 

 

I use a decent orbital sander with light pressure.  You don't need to do much, and be careful when you get near the edges, as you don't want to burn through the veneer.  Perhaps start with 220 paper and finish  with something in the upper 300's or 400.

 

Then you can seal with whatever you like.  I just did a Mahogany guitar and used teak oil and it looks beautiful.

 

I have to run out the door to get to work.... these kids won't teach themselves!  More on this later.

[Micklipsch]

On 4/12/2023 at 6:02 PM, OO1 said:

a mix of 50/50 mineral spirits and 0000 wool works very well on klipsch veneers  .

 

  you can avoid sanding or stripping with a Canadian product called TRADE SECRET , sold on Amazon , this product is easy to use  wipe-on   it will bring the speaker's finish   back to life  , the bottle is large  , it's cheap , and it will last years  .

https://www.tradesecret.ca/?page_id=789

 

For the heavy scratches  you can  use  bondo , wood filler or saw dust mixed with glue +  colored wax crayons to fill-in  the areas lacking   veneer ,   a coat of the Trade secret  blends the finish evenly 

 

For  removing the red marks and pen ink , try  a magic eraser all by itself  , if it does not work , add a dab of diluted mineral spirits  .

50/50 MS and water, correct?

 

On 4/13/2023 at 7:00 AM, Iteachstem said:

My 2 cents: Sand them carefully.  Sanding is the only way to get the water damage out on the top of the one speaker along with the several additional scratches. 

 

I use a decent orbital sander with light pressure.  You don't need to do much, and be careful when you get near the edges, as you don't want to burn through the veneer.  Perhaps start with 220 paper and finish  with something in the upper 300's or 400.

 

Then you can seal with whatever you like.  I just did a Mahogany guitar and used teak oil and it looks beautiful.

 

I have to run out the door to get to work.... these kids won't teach themselves!  More on this later.

Very nice looking work, per usual. An orbital is acceptable and will not create odd hazing vs something like a belt sander going parallel with the grain? If so, great because I have orbitals and don't feel like investing in belt types at this very moment.

 

So with the clear oak from Klipsch, do you guys think it's just raw oak, untinted with a lacquer, or what do you guys think is on here exactly?

[OO1]

46 minutes ago, Micklipsch said:

50/50 MS and water, correct?

 

Very nice looking work, per usual. An orbital is acceptable and will not create odd hazing vs something like a belt sander going parallel with the grain? If so, great because I have orbitals and don't feel like investing in belt types at this very moment.

 

So with the clear oak from Klipsch, do you guys think it's just raw oak, untinted with a lacquer, or what do you guys think is on here exactly?

yes 50/50 MS and water , dont forget the 0000 wool ,   start with the wool ,   then do a final sanding 

[Micklipsch]

2 hours ago, OO1 said:

yes 50/50 MS and water , dont forget the 0000 wool ,   start with the wool ,   then do a final sanding 

Gotcha. I’m leaning towards around 400 grit. 
 

Using this to fill in the small chipped veneer part. I think the color should land close enough and it’s nice it has wood fibers in it. Saves me from having to saw cut a piece of wood to save the dust and mix with glue. Also saves on buying a coloring pencil. 

[Micklipsch]

They also have these shades, but I just don’t know what’s gonna come close enough to Klipsch’s Clear Oak. And I take it it’s a little different than their light oak.

 

[Micklipsch]

Going with this two-step process versus the Trade Secret as this is available today in store and I can get my American instant gratification on.