Dennis D. Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 (edited) Hi, owning a good pair of HII, bought from another guy. Removed crossover for tests and puzzeld about connecting drivers. Tweeter has '+' mark but woofer and squawker don't. Honestly I was almost sure it must be marked. Yes I did write down +/- position for woofer not for skuawker... Skuawker position in cabinet is exact because of horn form but the woofer can be rotated and left/right contact pins become right/left when facing down. I see some hand written marks on drivers - a pink dot and golden stroke. I suppose they are not pointing out a plus though... Should I mount woofer pins up and connect all +'s right pins (looking from back)? Why should I put out crossover? One tweeter dosn't work. Actually it does, both tweeters work on one speaker and no one doesn't on another. Crossover passed tested well... Hi-freq section works well but tweeters don't... Edited April 30, 2023 by Dennis D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiFi Heaven Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 Correct polarity can be heard as an increase in volume at crossover frequency on a noise signal, can be seen on an audio real-time spectrum analyzer like AudioTool on your phone or tablet. Out of phase produces a pronounced dip at crossover as opposing acoustic waves cancel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 swap the crossover from the speaker which has a functional tweeter into the speaker with a failing tweeter- - if the tweeter works , you have a bad crossover -if the working crossover still does not get sound out of the tweeter , you have faulty connections Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winglet Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 That golden or yellow mark on your mid driver is the positive side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis D. Posted April 30, 2023 Author Share Posted April 30, 2023 25 minutes ago, winglet said: That golden or yellow mark on your mid driver is the positive side Oh really? Thanks! The problem is cabinet material seems too fragile for multiple in/out screwing times.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geezin' Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 I've taken my H1 apart maybe 7-8 rimes with no issues. Don't know if there is a big difference between 1 and 2. Just resist the temptation to over tighten the screws. Snug them up...that is stop just as resistance begins to ramp up fast. That's the best way I can think of to describe when to cease. I'm a mechanic/machinist so exceeded the force required for material removal once or twice. Doesn't hurt to clean threads prior to reassembly both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWOReilly Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 10 minutes ago, geezin' said: I've taken my H1 apart maybe 7-8 rimes with no issues. Don't know if there is a big difference between 1 and 2. Just resist the temptation to over tighten the screws. Snug them up...that is stop just as resistance begins to ramp up fast. That's the best way I can think of to describe when to cease. I'm a mechanic/machinist so exceeded the force required for material removal once or twice. Doesn't hurt to clean threads prior to reassembly both sides. The H2 is MDF rather than plywood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winglet Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 26 minutes ago, CWOReilly said: The H2 is MDF rather than plywood. H2 are all sealed backs. Cabinet material depends on the year. Cabinets switched to veneered mdf in 1989 on the H2 according to HDBRbuilder (former klipsch employee). Either way, motorboard should be plywood tho, but it is thin where the screws go due to the inset drivers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 by 1985 , the Heresy II was 100% MDF including the motorboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 @Dennis D. you can use T-Nuts in the woofer screw holes , the most fragile area is the section below the mids horn , apply a bit of glue around the T-nut to seal the opening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis D. Posted April 30, 2023 Author Share Posted April 30, 2023 29 minutes ago, OO1 said: @Dennis D. you can use T-Nuts in the woofer screw holes , the most fragile area is the section below the mids horn , apply a bit of glue around the T-nut to seal the opening Yes I know) I used those for building full-range project (Coral flat 8). It was from scratch making cabinets and setting driver so I could reach indepth for damping or so. Fo these Klipsches likely to keep intact as much as possible) Manufacturer's plate bears lesser info, signatures faded. Horn stickers say 1997. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 2 minutes ago, Dennis D. said: Manufacturer's plate bears lesser info, signatures faded. Horn stickers say 1997. Congrats on the new speakers , did you resolve the tweeter issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis D. Posted April 30, 2023 Author Share Posted April 30, 2023 8 minutes ago, OO1 said: the tweeter issue not yet. technician checked crossover with meter and other driver - works ok. I don't know which next steps should I do. Anyway I would rewire - maybe it would solve possible connection issue, I rather doubt. Tried to check tweeter with AA battery - no effect or sound or what I should notice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 19 minutes ago, Dennis D. said: Tried to check tweeter no sound I thought you said both tweeters were working , take an Ohmmeter , set the dial to Ohms , ..what's the reading for both tweeters ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis D. Posted April 30, 2023 Author Share Posted April 30, 2023 (edited) 33 minutes ago, OO1 said: I thought you said both tweeters were working , take an Ohmmeter , set the dial to Ohms , ..what's the reading for both tweeters ? No I didn't measure tweeter only Хover. When visiting technician I had to but didn't take tweeter with me. Guy said buy a meter it's cheap or use 1,5 V AA When I interchange tweeters they both work on one speaker or both don't on another. I mean I don't have multimeter, yet to obtain... Edited April 30, 2023 by Dennis D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 2 hours ago, Dennis D. said: No I didn't measure tweeter only Хover. When visiting technician I had to but didn't take tweeter with me. Guy said buy a meter it's cheap or use 1,5 V AA When I interchange tweeters they both work on one speaker or both don't on another. I mean I don't have multimeter, yet to obtain... ok , so you have good tweeters , that's settled , please swap the crossover from the bad tweeter speaker into the good tweeter speaker , does the tweeter stop working in the other speaker as well ? if yes , you have a defective crossover / bad capacitors or bad connections , you'll need to get the crossovers serviced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis D. Posted May 5, 2023 Author Share Posted May 5, 2023 Oh me bad -- Xovers both are good, a tweeter is dead. After precise checking. Sticker says Klipsch K-76-K Should I search for exact K76 diaphragm or there are the same specs but different model name, interchangebles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWOReilly Posted May 5, 2023 Share Posted May 5, 2023 2 hours ago, Dennis D. said: Oh me bad -- Xovers both are good, a tweeter is dead. After precise checking. Sticker says Klipsch K-76-K Should I search for exact K76 diaphragm or there are the same specs but different model name, interchangebles? Yes. Authorized parts are best. Some recommend replacing tweeter diaphragms in pairs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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