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Testing speakers


mikega

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I am new to restoring vintage audio equipment and I have a question. When testing my Klipsch Chorus 1 speakers with a multi meter, I understand the ohms part with regards to what I am looking for. What else should I be testing with the multi meter? Sorry if this is low level for the group but its kind of where I'm at. lol. 

Thanks for the help,

Mike

 

Marantz 2270

Klipsch Chorus 1

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you're testing all drivers to make sure that the  readings in Ohms match up  as close as possible ... per pair of  woofers , midrange  drivers and tweeters  

- readings must follow  the impedance of the driver  to indicate the  good  condition of the component.

-if there are big variations , between 2 drivers  ,  the driver or the diaphragm  inside the driver may  be defective   or on the way out , as  worn out .

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They are actually getting dropped off today so I will let you know. I've been reading up on rebuilds for the crossovers and such. Hopefully i will have them hooked up tonight and test them out. Looking for a turntable match also if there are any suggestions.

 

Thanks

 

 

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1 minute ago, mikega said:

They are actually getting dropped off today so I will let you know. I've been reading up on rebuilds for the crossovers and such. Hopefully i will have them hooked up tonight and test them out. Looking for a turntable match also if there are any suggestions.

 

Thanks

 

 

Cool...alot of decent, for the money TTs around. New to turntable? Some are 500 and much less.

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24 minutes ago, OO1 said:

you're testing all drivers to make sure that the  readings in Ohms match up  as close as possible ... per pair of  woofers , midrange  drivers and tweeters  

- readings must follow  the impedance of the driver  to indicate the  good  condition of the component.

-if there are big variations , between 2 drivers  ,  the driver or the diaphragm  inside the driver may  be defective   or on the way out , as  worn out .

Ok, Thank you, so another question. When you say they should all be close to each other in regards to impedance, I'm assuming that it is that 6-8 ohms range I am looking for? 

And all drivers should be close to that range ? 

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54 minutes ago, billybob said:

Project, U-Turn, Rega, Audio Technica, Technics and a multitude of other brands as new, modern, some being simple easy setup and play.

Others, used on places like craigslist. If you start a topic here, you will get a bunch of information. @mikega

Thanks for the help. Really appreciate it.

 

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7 hours ago, mikega said:

Ok, Thank you, so another question. When you say they should all be close to each other in regards to impedance, I'm assuming that it is that 6-8 ohms range I am looking for? 

And all drivers should be close to that range ? 

the woofers are 4 Ohms  ,   the tweeters are 8 Ohms , the midrange driver  is 16 Ohms    

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Keep in mind that those official specs are impedance (resistance while AC is applied, like normal speaker operation) figures, while your meter measures resistance (resistance while DC is applied), so the numbers will be a bit different from the specs, although both resistance and impedance are measured in ohms.  However, the figures for the drivers (both tweeters, both squawkers, both woofers) should be similar to each other.  Of course, the woofers don't need to have the same exact resistance figures as the tweeters.

 

The other thing you can test for is continuity (does the driver have a complete circuit that is, does the power go in one terminal and come out the other one?)  This is troubleshooting in the case of a non-functioning driver, so it won't apply in your case.  Just wanting to give you the complete picture.

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And, keep in mind that, while cool to know, more likely you will derive more pleasure from a refresh of crossover if the time comes. Ordinarily, owners do not pull components to measure unless, there is an evident problem.

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58 minutes ago, billybob said:

And, keep in mind that, while cool to know, more likely you will derive more pleasure from a refresh of crossover if the time comes. Ordinarily, owners do not pull components to measure unless, there is an evident problem.

Thanks Billy Bob, I do have them now and they are in amazing condition. Turns out the guy purchased a storage locker at an auction and these were in there. I am grabbing some monster cabling today and testing them out. I was thinking of rotating the woofers since i saw that suggested sue to possible woofer sag in original component

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6 hours ago, Islander said:

Keep in mind that those official specs are impedance (resistance while AC is applied, like normal speaker operation) figures, while your meter measures resistance (resistance while DC is applied), so the numbers will be a bit different from the specs, although both resistance and impedance are measured in ohms.  However, the figures for the drivers (both tweeters, both squawkers, both woofers) should be similar to each other.  Of course, the woofers don't need to have the same exact resistance figures as the tweeters.

 

The other thing you can test for is continuity (does the driver have a complete circuit that is, does the power go in one terminal and come out the other one?)  This is troubleshooting in the case of a non-functioning driver, so it won't apply in your case.  Just wanting to give you the complete picture.

Will do. Thanks for the help.

 

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15 minutes ago, mikega said:

Thanks Billy Bob, I do have them now and they are in amazing condition. Turns out the guy purchased a storage locker at an auction and these were in there. I am grabbing some monster cabling today and testing them out. I was thinking of rotating the woofers since i saw that suggested sue to possible woofer sag in original component

Don't think any sag issues with the K-48 woofer but, if do be careful as the mounting gasket may be fragile if over handled.

Plus, the woofers are heavy.

Hands off guy here.

Want to see them at some point. Like to play speakers for awhile before doing anything.

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