avguytx Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 So what was the actual reading on both tweeters using a DMM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Oops....duplicate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Don't know about tweeters but I have experienced other electronic devices read continuity with a meter but then when you put current through them (or try to) it is NOGO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 On 2/10/2024 at 1:57 PM, Skichuck77 said: Intermittent issues can be a real pain in the butt. 35 years as a maintenance technician taught me to just keep testing the suspect component until I was certain it was the culprit. +1 on diagnosing intermitting problems. They are a lot more 'fun' than when something is obviously broken. On 2/13/2024 at 11:46 AM, Gregavi said: I swapped x overs and the problem tweeter stayed with the same speaker which indicates a bad tweeter. The reason why I was assuming it was a bad x over is because the non working tweeter passed the Ohm and battery tests. If there is debris or something else could, sometimes, prohibit the vc movement, then it will Ohm good and play sometimes (appear to pass the battery test), and maybe why it worked when you played it doing what Dean said: by swapping the tweeter to the known working xover. Can you open the tweeter and inspect for debris? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregavi Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 On 2/13/2024 at 10:08 AM, avguytx said: So what was the actual reading on both tweeters using a DMM? 6 Ohm. As I stated, I swapped x overs and the same tweeter does not work, which points to the tweeter and not the x over. Sorry for the confusion but my tests produced inconsistent results. Very frustrating. I have determined that the problem is with the tweeter. Now my question is, should I replace the diaphragm, the entire tweeter or replace them both with an upgraded tweeter like the Crites CT 120 or the Smahl V2? Anybody compared these tweeters and your thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipsch104db Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 44 minutes ago, Gregavi said: 6 Ohm. As I stated, I swapped x overs and the same tweeter does not work, which points to the tweeter and not the x over. Sorry for the confusion but my tests produced inconsistent results. Very frustrating. I have determined that the problem is with the tweeter. Now my question is, should I replace the diaphragm, the entire tweeter or replace them both with an upgraded tweeter like the Crites CT 120 or the Smahl V2? Anybody compared these tweeters and your thoughts? Replace the diaphragm. Simply Speakers sells them. It's not a complicated do it yourself project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregavi Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 3 hours ago, Klipsch104db said: Replace the diaphragm. Simply Speakers sells them. It's not a complicated do it yourself project. Is it advisable to replace the diaphragm with titanium type if available? The ones I've seen don't list the K77 as one of the tweeters it fits so I'm guessing the replacement for the K77 isn't available in titanium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipsch104db Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 13 minutes ago, Gregavi said: Is it advisable to replace the diaphragm with titanium type if available? The ones I've seen don't list the K77 as one of the tweeters it fits so I'm guessing the replacement for the K77 isn't available in titanium. I've used both. Once I installed the diaphragm with the faceplate and once I soldered the diaphragm. Crites also sell replacement diaphragms. No you don't need to use titanium. The 2 pictured are from Simply Speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregavi Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 (edited) Was there in improvement in SQ with the titanium in your opinion? Also, Simply Speakers has an option to add Ferrofluid. I know it's supposed to keep the coil cool but is it necessary? I drive my La Scalas with 300 Watts of super clean power so I'm wondering if it's necessary. Do they come from the factory with FF? I was under the impression that very few have FF. Edited February 18 by Gregavi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipsch104db Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 10 minutes ago, Gregavi said: Was there in improvement in SQ with the titanium in your opinion? Also, Simply Speakers has an option to add Ferrofluid. I know it's supposed to keep the coil cool but is it necessary? I drive my La Scalas with 300 Watts of super clean power so I'm wondering if it's necessary. Do they come from the factory with FF? I was under the impression that very few have FF. Don't know what ferrofluid is. I didn't use it. 300 watts? That's why you blew a tweeter. I use to power my La Scalas with 400 watt mono block Hafler amps. Blew many tweeters. I went 25 watt tube amps. And I changed my tweeters to Crites ct125. If you're going to use that much power, you may want to go with the Crites ct120. They are more durable than the k77. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregavi Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 2 hours ago, Klipsch104db said: Don't know what ferrofluid is. I didn't use it. 300 watts? That's why you blew a tweeter. I use to power my La Scalas with 400 watt mono block Hafler amps. Blew many tweeters. I went 25 watt tube amps. And I changed my tweeters to Crites ct125. If you're going to use that much power, you may want to go with the Crites ct120. They are more durable than the k77. I've been driving them with the same amp for almost 20 years and it's the first time I've had a problem with the tweeters or any other speaker I've driven with this amp. I'm considering going with the CT120s. "Ferrofluid is a cooling / damping compound used in the magnetic gap of many tweeters to increase power handling and smooth out the frequency response; it has a tendency to thicken with age, gradually reducing tweeter output to zero." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipsch104db Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 7 hours ago, Gregavi said: I've been driving them with the same amp for almost 20 years and it's the first time I've had a problem with the tweeters or any other speaker I've driven with this amp. I'm considering going with the CT120s. "Ferrofluid is a cooling / damping compound used in the magnetic gap of many tweeters to increase power handling and smooth out the frequency response; it has a tendency to thicken with age, gradually reducing tweeter output to zero." I changed my crossovers to Crites Type A-4500. If yours still have originals they might be getting tired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregavi Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 5 hours ago, Klipsch104db said: I changed my crossovers to Crites Type A-4500. If yours still have originals they might be getting tired. You obviously didn't read my original post where I state "I replaced the crossovers a few years ago with a B&K Sound (AK 3) Xovers". You'd be right if they were the originals. That would make them the likely cause. I've recapped x overs that made a huge difference, especially in the high end. I've done more testing including swapping x overs and using a tone generator. I'm pretty sure it's a non working tweeter. I misdiagnosed at least once on this matter but I think I've got it nailed down to the problem being the tweeter and not the x over. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipsch104db Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 12 minutes ago, Gregavi said: You obviously didn't read my original post where I state "I replaced the crossovers a few years ago with a B&K Sound (AK 3) Xovers". You'd be right if they were the originals. That would make them the likely cause. I've recapped x overs that made a huge difference, especially in the high end. I've done more testing including swapping x overs and using a tone generator. I'm pretty sure it's a non working tweeter. I misdiagnosed at least once on this matter but I think I've got it nailed down to the problem being the tweeter and not the x over. Sorry about not reading back far enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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