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Why use cable connections?


Colin

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I know that with their larger surface area, spades are supposed to make the slightly better connection for speaker cables, but why use connectors at all, isnt that just one more piece in the audio chain? How can adding yet another part not somehow alter the sound, if only theoretically? Wouldnt wrapping bare wire around the posts be a better connection?

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In the electronics world, not the audio world, we learned that a "proper connector", silver-soldered to the wire, is the best connection. Just crimping a wire connector is actually a bad connection, as you only connect to the outer strands.

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The only 'real' connection is a gasless one. Connectors are more a matter of convenience, and practicality. A proper crimp, or solder -- is the only way to achieve perfect, gasless connectivity.

The advantage of spades over bare wire is their uniformity. They fit even and level against the post material, and you can really tighten them down good provided one uses a post wrench. Bare wire tends to shift and squirt around when tightened. It's also hard to manipulate without touching the ends (exposed copper).

The real problem with bindings posts is that most of newer ones are too big. There is simply much mass. Some believe they add unwelcome resistance between the crossover and amplifier.

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The best way is to literally, "hardwire" everything. For most of us, that is not a practical option. In Europe, they argue in favor of integrated amplifiers, also for that very reason (hardwire) to minimize the number "breaks" in the signal flow.

One way around this (at least partially) is to use a contact cleaner/conductive enhancer such as Caig's Pro Gold. This stuff really works. Unintentionally discovered it in what turned out to be an "accidental" blind test.

And in regards to the connectors itself, I use ones that can expand the conductors. Monster Cable for instance makes a banana type plug that fits into the binding posts internally, & can then be expanded & tighten outward very firmly against the inside of the post.

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On 4/30/2003 12:05:26 PM DeanG wrote:

Solder is a poor conductor.

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That's why we were taught to use "silver" solder. It is a much better conductor that the usual rosin-core 60/40 solder that most use, and if used properly, it flows very nicely, making a contact to all strands. Again, this is for critical electronics, like Nasa type stuff.

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On 4/30/2003 5:42:02 PM michael hurd wrote:

Why use cables and loudspeakers at all ? Why not just hum to the liner notes ? Then you can have perfect phasing and timbre matching within your head.

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timbre matching? You have never heard me sing! Trust me ... Something is not matching!

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How 'bout removing the crossover filters, and letting each driver reproduce whatever frequencies happen to reach it ? I don't think your tweeters will live a long happy life. Hell, if you listen at levels of less than 1 watt, why do we even need a power amp ? Just hardwire from your preamp to the driver's voice coils. Nice and short path. Lol !

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Michael (howdy, by the way!)

You don't know upon what great truths you have stumbled -- or your proabably do, otherwise you woudn't have mentioned them!

First: Humming to the liner notes: Can you imagine what fantastic music people had in their homes a few hundred years ago -- and beyond that. This was real, live music, with everything first-hand and totally intact. In the days of Mozart and others, people would gather by candlelight and entertain and sing and play piano and violin ...and all without TV, HT, CD, DVD, HDCD, SACD, blah, blah, blah. It was all REAL music. And a few hundred years into the future, we are trying to get back to that with tubes and horns and other stuff that makes music sound as real as we can get it to sound.

And Second: I have such a crossoverless pair of speakers. They are Called Lowthers (maybe you have heard of them!). They are very nearly full-range, installed in backloaded horns, are totally good with frequencies from about 60 cycles all the way out to 20,000. They sound extremely transparent; have amazing speed and clarity; and are quite shy in the bass compared to my La Scalas. But just as you indicated, they use no crossover whatsoever. Music sound very intact -- just, as I've recently learned, slightly thin. I listened to La Scalas years ago, and vowed I would one day own a pair. I love the ones I have. They just need a little fixing up in the cosmetic department, but otherwise are perfect.

Erik

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Once again we run into another brain fart by our members response.

Terminating connections #1 priority is for corrosion.

Now some of you not living in areas of high humidity may scoff at this suggestion "BUT " copper and humidity cause a real nice green gunk to form on and in between the strands of the wire.

Tinning the end of the cable and soldering a spade or bannana will fuse all strands of the wire to the connector not jut the outside strands.

I'm starting to sound like kelly !!!!!!!!!!!!! 15.gif

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Here in ontario, we call that green gunk "ford fungus". Just like it implies, a connection left unsealed and unterminated will corrode quite readily. Maybe not as fast indoors, but regardless it does happen. The best types of connections will have a tight, mechanical crimp, then soldered and then sealed with a mastic lined heatshrink. Solder is NOT to be used as a glue - it has poor mechanical strength, and any left over flux inside the solder will cause extra resistance. Also, solder will cause a stress point in the wire just after the joint. This may cause problems if the wire is repeatedly connected and disconnected, or a small gauge size. Usage of heatshrink tubing can give a strain relief effect. Just crimping alone will yield a bond with acceptable mechanical strength, but unless it is sealed with a mastic lined heatshrink, corrosion can start.

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DON'T tin the strands before connecting the spade or whatever other terminal. Solder is a lousy conductor! It's used to seal and hold an already mechanically sound joint. Crimp first, then solder -- or don't solder, depending on your preference. I always crimp well, and then seal that joint (just like every other one in my amplifiers and preamp)with solder. Some people I know even seal that fresh solder joint by holding a wax crayon to the joint to help prevent oxidation.

But sheesh, we can go crazy on this type of stuff!

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