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New boxes for RF7s


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Use a good quility real wood. Seal it up good. I know some people say why does it have to be sealed it is a ported design. The resane is because you want all the air going through the port. This way you get the right toning. Drill pilot holes first for the drivers, this way the screws will draw them tight. Good luck and give us some pics.

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When you're designing with demensions in mind, make sure to use the interal volume dimensions, not the exterior demensions. I'm guessing you already considered that, but never hurts to throw it in, because I've seen some people come up with some interesting results on projects because they did something stupid at the start and didn't realize it till they were all put togather. Other than that, good luck an I'll be awaiting pictures. What did you have in mind for wood and are you planning on incoorerating the factory grills?

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I looked at some very nivce wood this week and was taken to ther hospital when I reralized what it would cost.

I am rethinking the building, first I might do a center RF7 then tackle the fronts.

I can use a full fledge workshop and professional cabinet maker assistance if I volunteer my services in remodeling a bathroom. the person helping does some amazing wood work but has stated he would teach and guide without acutually doing any work himself. I am looking forward tot he project. Next week I will be visiting some real lumber yard for some prices for wood.

the dimensions of the interior cabinet will be measured with great accuracy.

thanks for the advice

scott

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I think the Klipsch cabinets are incredibly boring and boxey. I would like to have a nice deep cherry or mahogany speaker in my room. Also it will be a great winter project....I looked at some awesome cherry today but the cost was incredible. The choices with in reason is birch or oak plywood.

Scott

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  • 2 weeks later...

My brother built these back in 2000. They're 3/4" popular plywood with 3/4" MDF for the front and back. Drivers are cheap ol' Bose cone tweeter and midrange, and the woofer's from RadioShack (ugh). It has tons of internal bracing, and the woofers are in their own ported sub-enclosure inside the cabinets.

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There's a polarity switch for each in the back above the terminal posts. The crossovers are from Parts Express (from Dayton). The mixmatch of drivers to the crossover makes for a somewhat bright sounding combination, so until he can afford to replace the drivers with better drivers from Focal or Peerless, etc., for now these towers are pulling surround sound duty for his HT system.

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If you just want to improve the cosmetics, consider just adding a sheath around the existing box. You could use much thinner (cheaper) solid wood. You could also add a panel to the front like some of the decorator Cornwalls out there. Typically solid wood isn't used for speaker cabinet structures because of inconsistent shrinkage/warping issues. Plywood is not just cheaper, it's better.

I have a line on a bunch of beautiful cabinet-grade mahogany plywood(still expensive) if you are interested.

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keep in mind that solid wood may be the worst offender for resonance. solid wood typically have grain going in one direction which provide the large resonant tendencies a good speaker tries to avoid.

best go with fiberboard - thicker panels (perhaps an inch and a half) and use adequate bracing and dampening - to reduce the coloration the cabinet might produce.

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