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Tweeter blown. Is it time to upgrade?


3dzapper

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One of the tweeters in my Klipschorns stopped working. I tested it and it was open. Upon inspection, I found one of the small wires of the voice coil was broken. Since they are the same age I suspect the other one is probably weakened due to the constant movement.

Should I try to put a new domes in these tweeters or is it time to upgrade to the new k-77-f tweeters? I have AA crossovers would it be worth upgrading the squaker driver to the k-55-x at this time?

Although my funds are a little limited right now due to early retirement, I now spend more time with my horns than ever before. I want the best sound I can afford. That means no AK-4 networks or ALK's or John Warren's nice looking AAs.

I have been learning quite a bit since I found this site and thank all of you for your participation.

Rick

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I believe a replacement diaphragm is the only way to go in view of budget constraints.

The new version of the K-77 and K-55 will be very expensive; and you might be told you'll need to buy the new crossover.

Of course it makes sense to buy two diaphragms to have a spare on hand. I wouldn't replace a working diaphragm until it breaks.

Gil

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As William suggests buy a new pair of diaphragms and keep the leftover of the new pair as a spare. The existing working diaphragm will likely work for years. In essence because of their low mass tweeter diaphragms do very little actual work and are not therefore prone to wearing out. True they are fragile and easily damaged but if not subject to abuse or misfortune they are likely to last indefinitely.

As far as "upgrading" from the AA xover that may be difficult given that many would argue that the AA is one of the best ever made - some would argue it to be The best.

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Thanks Gil and Lynnm,

I just needed someone to kick me in the back of the head.

I ordered a pair of diaphrams on Ebay for $44.99. and will just repair the one for now and put the other in an envolope inside the other top section until I need it.

I still would like to upgrade the squaker. Maybe when I sell my business real estate.

Rick

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Maybe you should consider rebuilding your crossovers into an ALK. People love them.

Take a look at the schematic and lay out drawings on his website. A search for ALK crossover klipsch will bring it up.

You already have the autotransformer. You can use the woofer inductor you have. PWK took it out of the circuit at the factory demo room.

Even if you buy the suggested very high quality inductors and caps, it may not be quite the budget buster you think.

Al uses automotive push on connectors with the Universal brand autotransformer. I've used them on that brand. The smaller than 1/4 inch seem to fit perfectly but you have to be a bit careful because they are a bit snug, so I pry them open with a small screwdriver. At least one of our correspondents plans to use a rotary switch from RS to make the level adjustable rather than fooling with the taps. Something I might do too.

If replacing the diaphragm is something you can do, then such a project is within your area of expertise.

Gil

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Rick

I would only upgrade to the 55x if you plan to do the entire AK-4 upgrade. VERY VERY EXPENSIVE. The X is made for the AK-4. The AA and ALK are the kings for the 60 - 80s years Khorns.

I have not heard the AK-4, but I would bet money that the AA or ALK and the original drivers is not much less of a sounding Khorn.

The K77's diags are VERY easy to replace.

JM

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Rick,

The above is sound advice. The K-55-X is NOT an upgrade without the AK-4 network. While it has essentially the same output as the K-55-V, it cannot reach the 6000 Hz crossover point of the Type AA tweeter. The K-77-F has less output than your K-77s

As for upgrades, from your description you must have K-77s with the hair thin leads. These tweeters are rated at 2 watts continuous/20 watts peak. The replacement diaphragms surely have ribbon leads and carry a 5/50 watt rating; a nice improvement. I have these and have disconnected the diodes that protect the tweeter. Disconnecting the diodes removes some "hashy" sounds at high dB (the reason your tweeter blew). 1.gif I have not had any trouble with tweeters and my 140 wpc power amp.

If you want a further upgrade, look for K-77-Ms. They are supposed to be flatterabove 10k Hz. I have had a pair of each tested (in non ideal conditions) and cannot see a difference in response. Your Mileage May Vary.

An excellent upgrade is a set of "Z" brackets from Klipsch. After you enlarge the tweeter hole in your cabinet, the brackets push the tweeters forward to be flush with the front of the cabinet. I guarantee you can hear and will like the difference. I do not know how much work this is on a K-horn; I have La Scalas.

I received a nice improvement in clarity by changing the tweeter caps to Hovland Musicaps ($$$). I changed my squawker caps and could not hear it.

Changing the woofer inductor to an air-core inductor of 16 ga or larger will stabilize the woofer crossover point. Al K. tested the stocker and found it's inductance changed at alarmingly low power levels.

If you have K-77 tweeters, you also have spring terminal K-55-Vs. The solder terminal K-55-Vs have an improved phase plug that smooths and raises output from 4000 to 6000 Hz. I have several of each type and *I* cannot hear a difference, but others can. That frequency range is not often found in music, so my program material may be why I can't hear the difference.

If you haven't, cover the K-400 squawker horn with Dynamat or rope caulk from Home Depot. You'll get a calm, relaxed, smooth sound. I love that mod most.

Cost:

Many people will swap drivers with you, so this may cost a little as shipping, or about $20/driver. Bought outright, used, expect about $100 each for the tweeters and $75 each for the squawkers. The tweeter cap change will cost about $50/crossover. The inductor change will be $20/xover, or less. The "Z" brackets are roughly $15/pair, 2 pair req'd. Rope caulk for each speaker will cost $5 or so.

I have done all of these mods. They do not change the character of the speaker, but improve it. Some argue this is sacrilege. I argue Mr. Paul *might* have done it if he built a special cost is no object version. Being a consummate engineer, he was as concerned with cost as he was with performance. All are reversable except the "Z" brackets, but Klipsch does that to all K/B/L these days.

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John,

Thank you very much for your input.

Yes, the new diaphrams have heavier leads. In your opinion I should change both of the diaphrams now and eliminate the diodes?

I told my wife today that I am going to start buying parts to build AL K's network. That should eliminate changing out the caps in the AA networks.

There is a brand new Lowe's open in my area, rope caulk is on my shopping list.

I'll keep an eye out for some K55V's on ebay. I think there was a pair recently, I thought I don't need those right now.

I will look into those "Z" brackets also. Maybe someone on the board can tell us more about them and show some pic's.

This retirement stuff is not cheap! all I do, besides my archery, is sit here and think of ways to spend money and keep myself busy.

You can't beat those Klipschorns. I just watched the Stones on HBO, 110db and they were not even breaking a sweat (Mick was ). Two tweeters would have sounded better though.

Rick

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I would wait until the tweeter fails to replace the diaphragms. Removing the diodes (unbolting one and letting it hang) is an at your own risk thing. With one low power tweeter, I don't think I'd do it. Partsexpress.com sells polyswitches. Klipsch uses them now, with a resistor in parallel. It's a gentler sounding tweeter protector. Search the BBS for an AK-3 schematic.

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"If you haven't, cover the K-400 squawker horn with Dynamat or rope caulk from Home Depot. You'll get a calm, relaxed, smooth sound. I love that mod most"

John,

I put the rope caulk on the squaker of the speaker with the blown tweeter tonight. It took just over two boxes I bought from Lowes($4ea). I A/B'd the speakers with a Duke Ellington number from Music Choice and the difference is pleasing. I'll do the other one tomorrow after I get some more rope caulk and repair the blown tweeter.

Rick

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