fire pinch Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 Hallwalker, I saw your web link and I dont know if what I see is what I think, but for me they use the bandpass design. If you like especialy music and you want a sub which is very good for this, I think you should look for another project than this one. Bandpass boxes are the worst for music. But this is the box for you if you like boomy bass and BANG BANG bass, bandpass subs are extremely efficient so they can be very powerfull without having an awesome woofer with a lot of Xmax. But bandpass subs normally dont operate in a very large frequency range and this is strange, because in that webpage, they seem to tell us that you can have bass which extend to the low 15s and at the same time, they can be very good in the mid-bass region. Can someone take a look at his link? Im really confused there, because this seems to be a bandpass box when you take a look at the white papers but according to what they say in the main page, this not seem to be about bandpass box at all!!! This is a horn loaded design maybe? But well, I dont recognize a horn loaded design in those white papers... P.S.: I talk about the FIRST LINK given... the hw15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fire pinch Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 Formica, I didnt see your post before mine LOL!! But well, I think that I didnt hallucinate when I saw the first page. We both agreed that this is really about a bandpass sub. I wasnt sure at 100% because they seem to rave this type of sub and Im VERY VERY tired... I really got cought by the PR department! LOLLLL! Oh well... some really lOve bandpass subs... they have the right to love them LOL But this is really not they are not the preferetated, hmm prefered of many people here I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasN00b Posted August 6, 2003 Author Share Posted August 6, 2003 my room is ... i forget the EXACTLY measruments, but its not very big. when you enter the room, its something like.. 8 feet wide.. mabey a little less, and it slopes out to about 12' at the other end, with the celeing sloping ... up. i have the TV against the 12' wall. the sub would prolly reside in the back , because thats the easiest/most effective location for a sub, so the sub itself would be able 6-10' away from the couch that is the listening position. i'm very intrigued about the subwoofer you're talking about now fire.. could you email me? jasruler@optonline.net thanks! well its 5:46AM, i need to head out to work now so i can actually build this thing. ah my silly friends spending thier summers relaxing by the pools and hanging out. 12 hour workdays is where its at! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 ---------------- On 8/6/2003 1:33:36 AM fire pinch wrote: I didnt see your post before mine LOL!! ---------------- Don't you hate when that happens? Jasn00b, with it's modest amplifier requirements, the vented Tempest can be a great sub... and seeing you aren't too worried about size I'd go half way in size with the Adire Alignement (8ft3 each) as it really gives you the flattest response and the best of both worlds. On a limited budget and using a plate amp, this is probably the way I'd go. The Stryke AV15 is only a little more money, and should outperform the Tempest BUT will require quite a bit more power. If you can get a good deal on a pro-amp, I would go this route... and is what I'm in the process of doing. Later... Rob PS: I purchased a 700W (bridged) JBL/QSC pro amp on liquidation for under 150$ but you don't get the builtin features of a sub-plate amp like x-over, phase, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fire pinch Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 I posted some numbers of how much powerfull the Tempest is below 25 Hz in my main tread when I talked about my Tempest. Just so you know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin B Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Sorry Ears, "Mr. DIY" has been busy with work and his own little DIY project. Just wasn't sub related. http://dustin.bunnyhug.net/pics/scale.jpg http://dustin.bunnyhug.net/screen.php Anyways, what has been said so far has been more or less spot on for budget and performance goals. If you can spare the space my first choice would also be the dual Tempest, but I'd do the single enclosure like Mike Strassburg did. 480L sonotube with a Tempest and 6" straight port (cut to tune to 18hz) on each endcap stuffed with 64oz of polyfil. Second choice would be the AV15 in a 150-200L enclosure with a single flared 6" port. Unless you want to drop the cash for a pair of PRs. I'll leave finding the right amount of power for a fair price to you. But you'll want 250-300W per Tempest or 350-450W for the AV15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasN00b Posted August 7, 2003 Author Share Posted August 7, 2003 ---------------- On 8/7/2003 6:06:32 PM Dustin B wrote: Sorry Ears, "Mr. DIY" has been busy with work and his own little DIY project. Just wasn't sub related. http://dustin.bunnyhug.net/pics/scale.jpg http://dustin.bunnyhug.net/screen.php Anyways, what has been said so far has been more or less spot on for budget and performance goals. If you can spare the space my first choice would also be the dual Tempest, but I'd do the single enclosure like Mike Strassburg did. 480L sonotube with a Tempest and 6" straight port (cut to tune to 18hz) on each endcap stuffed with 64oz of polyfil. Second choice would be the AV15 in a 150-200L enclosure with a single flared 6" port. Unless you want to drop the cash for a pair of PRs. I'll leave finding the right amount of power for a fair price to you. But you'll want 250-300W per Tempest or 350-450W for the AV15. ---------------- why should i go with that design instead of what Fire recommended me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fire pinch Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Jas, I can tell you... What Dustin recommanded is better, but the enclosure would be cylindrical instead of a box. If you dont mind of the look of a sonotube, go with it. You may want to power each Tempest with 300W of power if your budget permit it. I didnt recommand you that because I dont like cylindrical shaped sub but this is just a question of taste. But if you dont mind of the look, Dustin is so right about this design Why would it be better? Because you would have a bit more SPL below 25 Hz (with dual Tempests), between 1 and almost 2 dB more. Sound quality should be close in both cases. Oh and also the sonotube should weight less than a big well braced box which has 2 Tempests. But I dont know if it would be more easy to displace because this will be a damn huge sonotube! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasN00b Posted August 7, 2003 Author Share Posted August 7, 2003 hmmm i prolly shoulda mentioned i'd prefer a sonotube in the beggining eh? so.. can i get some numbers/plans for the sonotube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fire pinch Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Jas, You just got an email If Dustin knows how Mike Strassburg built his sub, he can certainly tell you how exactly to build it like him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin B Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Ah, now you get the answer to what use you have for algebra Go download LspCAD from Adire's site. Punch in the stats I mentioned above to determine how long to make the 6" ports (schedule 40 PVC will work great for this). Then decide what diameter of sonotube you want to use and use the volume of a cylinder forumla and some algebra to figure out how tall to make it. Don't forget the 480L is net volume. You have to add 3.5L per Tempest and the volume the ports would take up if they were solid cylinders to this to get your gross volume which is what you should be figuring the sonotube for. Oh and when figuring the tuning, count on about a 10-15% appearant volume increase from the 64oz of polyfill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasN00b Posted August 8, 2003 Author Share Posted August 8, 2003 i cant download the software... can someone provide a mirror site? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin B Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Have you tried this link? http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Adire.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasN00b Posted August 8, 2003 Author Share Posted August 8, 2003 hmmm this is a dauntingly complex program... *Sigh* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Milla Jovovich... she looked really good in the 5th Element... wouldn't mind working on her either... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabulousfrankie Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 ---------------- On 8/7/2003 11:39:32 PM JasN00b wrote: hmmm i prolly shoulda mentioned i'd prefer a sonotube in the beggining eh? so.. can i get some numbers/plans for the sonotube?---------------- Here's a nifty site to help figure out how long to cut your sonotube. Just make sure to papy attention to the units. http://www.quux.net/roo/diy/sonosub/sonocalc.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mlstrass Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 I can save you the trouble since my sub is the one Dustin mentioned. Specs came straight from Dan Wiggins of Adire and I couldn't be happier both HT and music wise. Plenty low during The Haunting DTS and great for techo/dance, but also blends nicely on instrumental/classical stuff. Here's a quote from Dan: "For serious output, I'd look at a 24" diameter tube, 72" long. Mount one Tempest and one vent in each end. For the vents, use 6" ID by 20"L pipe. Double-thick the endcaps (1.5" thick, assuming 3/4" thick stock) from void-free plywood (Baltic birch or marine grade plywood). Should end up with a net 480L, tuned to 17 Hz. Use some 4" high legs on the bottom to space the sub off the floor. Yes, it's big, but the sound should be dominating and effortless, with clean extension down to 15 Hz or so in-room. And SPL levels should be well above reference, in the 120 dB SPL range from 15 Hz and up. Definitely hit you in the chest/rattle the roof/annoy the neighbors type bass." I ended up going with a 28" diameter tube about 54 1/2" long. I measured a high of 127dB @ 35Hz. This thing WILL hit you in the chest and rattle stuff off the walls.....of my detached garage. Total to build was around $900, but that was with the Hypex HS500 amp which is over $500 alone. You could use a less costly Pro Audio amp and get in for under $800. I also ran SPL tests from around 16Hz up to 100Hz and it was very flat, so no EQ needed. JasNOOB, I can guarantee that this sub won't dissappoint you. It has NEVER failed to amaze anyone that's heard it. I was pretty skeptical myself, as I didn't see how a couple of $150 drivers and a cardboard tube could make any bass. Just ask my neighbor 2 houses away as it rattles her windows every time I crank it up.If/when you do decide to build I'd be happy to offer some tips that I learned along the way to make things easier. Good luck...Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mlstrass Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Here's a link if you want to see what it looks like. I removed the little mirrors as I didn't care for them. http://www.geocities.com/mlstrass/myhometheater.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasN00b Posted August 8, 2003 Author Share Posted August 8, 2003 so to make this thing... i just take the sonotube, make two endcaps.. (which are just round circular pieces of wood cut with the right thickness cut to the right diameter, correct?) then i cut two holes in them for the driver and port.. (does it matter where the holes are put in the endcap?) then i mount drivers, do the wiring, get the port tubes, attach them to the endcap.. and then attach the endcaps to the sonotube? (what do you use to do this?) after that, i just put the 4" legs on it? that sounds easy enough.. i must be missing something. do i need to do anything else to the sub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin B Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 http://www.io.com/~patman/sunosub2.html Way more detail than you should need to figure out how to build one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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