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Okay... suggest me a DIY sub please >=)


JasN00b

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another question, if i go with the 72" tall sonotube, can i use that with one driver?

i'd like to see if one driver offeres the output i need, as i think that it will.

so i was wondering if i could use the 72" sonotube, see how that works, and if i wanted to, put on a new endcap on the top for the driver?

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Hey Dustin nice work on that screen!

Regarding the topic, the software is a bit complex, but once you learn to use it is an incredible tool to learn and design. I have a single tempest on a 210L (a bit more or less) sonotube, Its tunned to 21Hz because I wanted the flattest possible response. The sound of this beast has been favorable compared to subs costing as much as 3,000 bucks, by their very owners (some of them doesn't quite like this fact).2.gif

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On 8/8/2003 9:03:01 PM JasN00b wrote:

another question, if i go with the 72" tall sonotube, can i use that with one driver?

i'd like to see if one driver offeres the output i need, as i think that it will.

so i was wondering if i could use the 72" sonotube, see how that works, and if i wanted to, put on a new endcap on the top for the driver?

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Hmm, this wouldnt be recommanded. The FR curve would not be the same at all. You would have a bump near 19 Hz compared to other frequencies. If you want to go in one driver first, you may want to /2 the volume of that sonotube AND to build another similiar sonotube with another woofer... So a sonotube of 36" tall instead of 72" and instead of having two 6 inches ports you will have one with the same lengh if my math is correct! Please correct me others if Im wrong with that -> me very tired now at this time!

Mistrass,

"I measured a high of 127dB @ 35Hz"

How big is your room? For a dual Tempest setup, this is a lot of output! 6.gif I wonder if Im able to hit 120 dB at least (theorically, adding another Tempest sub, you get +6dB) Did you see my post where I put some numbers? At 25 Hz for example, I cant hit more than 116 dB for now!!! Im wondering if I can get more than that ! 6.gif

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i have an idea.

i'll do this.

since i already have the endcaps and ports andwhatnot, i'll just build two 36" subs, and leave one unloaded.

then if i want more output, i just throw another driver into the unloaded one. then all the work needed is to secure that endcap... and *bam* i'll have two subs.

then i'll just stack them or something ala horned..

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You won't find this stuff at any retail store. Look up concrete contractors in your yellow pages. They should be able to get you some.

You can't quite slap the endcaps in. You may have to remake them as you really shouldn't have cut them until you got the sonotube and got an accurate diameter measurement using a circumference measurement. Sonotube varies from brand to brand on it's actual inner diameter. Often it's a little over the specified size and they just rounded. The endcaps need to fit snug as it is critical that the sub be air tight (with the exception of the port hole).

If you haven't yet, I strongly recommend carefully going over Patrick Sun's webpage I linked above. Read it carefully, follow his lead and your project will turn out great. Moving to fast, before you understand better what you are doing and why, is a recipe for being unhappy with the end result.

Thanks Manuel. The screen was a really quite easy to build. I still have some paint test left to do before I decide if I want to paint it or not. And I also need to build some adjustible masking to frame the screen in properly (I'm using a HTPC so I can do a constant area between the various aspect ratios). Just watched Saving Private Ryan again tonight. Was stunning on the PT-L300U 9.gif

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On 8/8/2003 8:55:22 PM JasN00b wrote:

is sonotube measured by inside diameter or outside diameter?

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Inside diameter.

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On 8/9/2003 12:10:28 AM JasN00b wrote:

also, where do you guys buy sonotube?

i couldnt find any 24"x72" sonotube at homedepot.. are there any other chain stores that carry it this big, or should i try a local construction store or what?

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Home Depot only has 8", 10", and 12" tubes. I'm using the full length 8" diameter tubes as a port in my subs. You need to check your yellow pages for a concrete contractor.

Just finished some tubes of my own today. One is my brother's AV15, it's designed stricly for car SPL competitions. The other is a sealed sub I made from spare parts. I had extra tube from my dual subs I'm building, extra MDF from a project I scrapped, and a SVS CS woofer I'm not using.

Look in the background and you'll see yet another sonotube enclosure.

post-7551-13819248704746_thumb.jpg

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fire pinch,

The 127dB was measured at 1 meter. Actual listening distance was around 122dB I believe. Room is around 15 x 22 x 8.

I'm having a house built right which will have room in the basement for dedicated HT, so I plan on buying 2 more Tempests and doing an IB...hopefully even more SPL and even cleaner and hit you harder bass!

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On 8/9/2003 9:36:05 PM JasN00b wrote:

could someone tell me in laymens terms what those two lines are plotting?
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It basically telling you at X frequency the subwoofer is playing X dB, it's Pat's in room frequency response. It's always preferred to have it be flat and go as low as possible. It's not indicative of it's max output though. When he says near, he means that the measurements were taken near the sub, I think he did it at 1M away. You can basically just pay no attention to the yellow(SPL Near Raw) line, it's just the numbers straight from the Radio Shack SPL meter. Down low the meter is innacurate but a table of correction values has been made to correct it's innaccuracies. The blue line(SPL Near Adj) is the response of the subwoofer after it has been adjusted with the correction values.

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