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Question about rear vertical panel on K horns


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I have completed my repaneling of my older K horns. They look great! However, for reasons pertaining to ease of cutting/covering the older cabinet, the top of the speaker (the very top of upper cabinet) was made larger. Hence the vertical back of the speaker sets off the wall when the sides of the top are against the corner walls. Is this a problem? I have read where optimum results occur when both sides of the back vertical member is tight to the wall. It seems like the bass is a little lame. I could adhere a larger back panel where they side would touch the wall. Any comments appreciated. If unclear, I could post a picture. Thanks!

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It's always something. I have taken another look at it and my new top panel is only about 1" deeper in the back than the original top panel. When the speaker is pushed tight to a corner, the sides of the vertical back is approx 2" or less from the side rooms walls. I am thinking these walls need to touch/seal to the side walls.

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If the tail board doesn't have a tight seal you will be a couple dB down in the 250 to 400 Hz range. If you don't modify the top to correct this

and modify the tailboard instead, you will change the horn flare rate as mentioned above. The different flare rate will most likely have a negative effect, but you never know. If you have a sound level meter and test tones try it out.

Take the top of the speaker off and place the Klipschorn in the corner like it was designed to.

Measure the output from 400Hz down. Don't change your volume control while doing this. Now screw on a piece of wood to extend the tail board to the walls to match your top. Measure the output again and compare it to the proper setup. Let us know the results, it might end up being a good tweat. If not, I would modify the top to fit the corner.

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Klipschorn tops are only held on by two wing nuts.

I would remove the grills from the bottoms, and then push them into the corners.

I would then install the tops and mark the new position the bolt for the wing nuts needs to be in.

I would not fool around with the tail board unless the above method stuck out the modified top so far it looked funny.

But as always, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

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LOL you go bud, i loved having a set to play with, but making them totally original, going from type D, to a Type C build was a blast!

Youll get it, these guys here on the BB, is how i built mine, i did it without even owning another pair to look at!

There great, take their advice, need anymore help, im here also, i know the Klipschorn inside and out!

Regards Jim9.gif

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Hi 3D,

Thanks for the tip. A couple of questions: Is this foam a typical rigid styrofoam (typ white)? Do you install the foam on the vertical back board? So, the foam would be 18" wide by whatever height. I am still trying to figure out the sound comes out of the bass bin hits the back panel and then uses the room walls to disperse into the room. If you have seen my previous posts, you can see that the back panel on mine, (because I altered them) the sides do not touch the room walls. There is at least a 1" gap here. Anyway thanks!

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just get some wood to make the tail board thicker,,,,get some velcro strips velcro it on the tailboard,put rubber seals on new board it will seal in corner better,,this way it can be put back to original if need be...if on hard floor dont forget to seal the bottom to the floor,,,,like HDBR said...or atleast use grippers on them and seal horizontal wood on bass bin to wall.rick

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It's just plain old styro from Home Depot. When I got my horns back "in the day" the manual said to use carpet runner for coupling. That was fine for a while but over time got brittle and warped and sagged. This is the best stuff I have found for irregular corners. When you push the speaker home the foam cracks a little and moulds to the wall contour very well.

"I am still trying to figure out the sound comes out of the bass bin hits the back panel and then uses the room walls to disperse into the room."

The folded horn within the enclosure continues to unfold using the walls and floor of the listening room as it's terminus. A folded horn or line source type horn is constantly expanding from the lens to the output. If the corner is not properly coupled there is a buldge in the exponential horn. This will rob some of the energy from the output. I'm not an accustical engineer so I can't get any more technical than that. I can however, hear the stronger, tighter bass when the horns are properly coupled. I always know when my wife moves them to chase dust bunnies.

Rick

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Something that is a little neater than the stryofoam but still available at Home Depot is pipe insulation. You can get the stuff in 6' lenghts. Its circular (like a pipe) and slit down the middle so its real easy to install.

Its a cheap fix too.

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