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LA SCALA BASS BIN MODS CHECK THIS OUT!!!


dtximages

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I want to refer everyone to this thread: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=38586&sessionID={4808C87D-7FE6-456F-B87D-FA62625A91CC}.

I tried to attach the pic but it wont work. Anyway, has anyone tried this and is there any detrimental engineering issues to consider before doing this? Also, how big would you make it? How do you know how much internal volume? Im sure you would have to use foam in the bin. What do yall think???????

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djk came up with the idea and dimensions needed. This is a quote from him in a former post:

"I'm looking for a total net volume of about 4.8 cu ft. I figure the stock back volume is about 2.25 cu ft. Call it an internal height of about 9" (22.5 X 22.5 X 8.70 = 4404 cu in = 2.55 cu ft). Two 4" ID by 10" long ports displace about .15 cu ft so 10" outside is close enough."

Search for my name under Updating Older Speakers. It is from July of this year, with the heading of LaScala Bass Extension. Gentleman from Norway made the extra cabs, and said the bass was exceptional, but he was removing them because of the height. He uses Oris horns, and they became too tall for him.

If you make them very cheap and then like them, you can remove the mod and add to the top, by enclosing the top section of the LS (back) and open up the "doghouse" into the top section. This way they stay the same height.

Marvel

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Yup, djk said that the crossover would have to move outside the box. You would probably have to pull all the old threads together to get the whole picture. The response with this will go down to 30-32Hz as I recall. I'm still playing with the Heresies, 'cause I don't have room for the LS. I was giong to build a pair (still might someday), and it would sure be easier to do this from scratch. djk had a couple other things you could do, one of them was switching to K-43 from the K-33. Also could put in an EV but that requires a crossover mod.

Marvel

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I wonder if there is any difference in placing the mod on the bottom vs. enclosing the cavity in the rear. How you you cut out a hole in the upper bass bin. Wouldnt i have to completely tear the speaker apart? Also it seems like that would almost irrepairable in the future if the mod does not stay. I wonder also about bass distortion. Taking away the sealed nature of the bass bin would give no back pressure to the woofer and could cause it to excrude farther than normal. But if i can get my lascals down to 30 hz then its worth it. thanks guys

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Whether the added size is on the bottom or by enclosing the top is irrelevant. You want about 4.8 cu feet total. you can make the hole in a couple of ways. Remove the top piece, remove both mid and tweeter. Remove the woofer. Cut away with a rotozip. You could probably cut a large circle as in the drawing below (shown centered on the drawing of the bottom piece). Make it slightly smaller than the edges of the doghouse, thereby giving yourself the option of gluing and screwing a cover if you decide to remove the mod.

The back will have to have strips glued and screwed around the inside edge, to attached the new back piece with the ports in it. Others have done this mod, and not gone back. The only reason Frode did was because he only had the bass bin part and had added onto the bottom. It made his cabinets with an attached Oris horm on top too tall. Use your imagination and be creative. If you can't, or don't feel you have the skill, perhaps you have an acquaintance who does woodworking who could help. You will have to remove the components, as you don't want to get sawdust in them.

Marvel

hole.jpg

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I've always been able to get the crossover inside the box.

The woofer loads through the top on the earliest LaScala. On this model you just leave the door/hatch off and frame in the back board with ports.

On an LaScala Industrial it already comes with the back framed in, I just make a new back with the ports.

On the newer home version LaScala I cut the opening with a router. I use a two flute panel cutter with a guide bearing. It drills its own pilot hole, then the bearing runs on the inside of the doghouse and trims the opening flush.

Cone motion is about the same as a Cornwall.

While you have all the guts out and safely stored away from the sawdust its a good time to think about any other changes you may want to make.

Think about flush mounting the tweeter using the Klipschorn Z-bracket kit.

I generally brace the top of the enclosure.

I generally brace the sides of the woofer horn.

I generally bi-wire the networks and mount the nice input cups from Madisound on the bottom woofer door/hatch.

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Dennis,

It seems you could write all this up with drawings and publish a book. You might even sell a couple.

I didn't think a router would fit, but I guess it's no taller than a rotozip. Plus it will do a lot neater job.

This is getting tedious, but I guess I'll have to build these this way just so I can tell people it works.

Marvel

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Yeaay Marvel!

Been waiting for someone else to try this mod 3.gif Haven't had the guts to try it yet.

Still looking for parts to build a type a crossover for 'em. Don't have a height clearance problem here so maybe the bottom conversion would be best here. Do you think the added height would be detrimental to listening?

Randy

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  • 2 years later...
  • 2 months later...

Several forum members, yours truly included, have posted photos of the modification in its various forms. The link below has some photos and the first post includes links to other threads with more photos.

<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

Re: I have Ported the La Scalas!

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/761099.aspx

Good luck. Its a good thing. I would do it again to any La Scalas that I ever own. Feel free to email or PM if you have specific questions.

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