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Heresy 1 sqawker-removing driver from horn


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On 10/14/2003 10:54:41 PM TBrennan wrote:

Dave---Just unscrew it from the horn.

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Tom,

Tried that. I put enough pressure on it that I was afraid of breaking it, but it wouldn't budge. I'd like to front mount the horn, butI need to remove the driver to do it. I suspect they may have been glued. If you're sure that glue wasn't used, I'll crank harder on them.

Dave

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On 10/15/2003 8:47:25 AM ricktate wrote:

Why mess with a good thing....might even make things worse,,,,like break the horn....just to move it 3/4 of an inch forward....think about it,,,,whats it gonna do....rick

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It will allow the horn flare to work properly, which it can't do with a 3/4 inch straight sided well around it. The newer Heresy's seem to have solved the problem. I did a temporary fix by routing the wood slot to match the horn's flare, which made an audible difference. I plan to build a custom enclosure with a sub built into the bottom and front mount all the drivers. My origional enclosure is in very rough shape. You can see a pic of the modded Heresy here. Just scroll down.

http://www.decware.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=General&action=display&num=1065473034&start=60

Dave

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Try a spray of WD-40 in a way so that it can wick up into the threads and let it sit overnight, then give it another shot the next night.

One trick with some screw in fittings is to give it a little torque in the forward, clockwise direction, and then rock it clockwise and counterclockwise.

Maybe some can tell us if there is a rubber gasket which might interfere with penetration of the oil.

In any event, you get the picture.

Gil

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On 10/15/2003 8:52:12 PM William F. Gil McDermott wrote:

Try a spray of WD-40 in a way so that it can wick up into the threads and let it sit overnight, then give it another shot the next night.

One trick with some screw in fittings is to give it a little torque in the forward, clockwise direction, and then rock it clockwise and counterclockwise.

Maybe some can tell us if there is a rubber gasket which might interfere with penetration of the oil.

In any event, you get the picture.

Gil

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I'll give it a try. Thanks!

Dave

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The newer Heresys were not front mounted for the flare of the horn,,,they are front mounted for productin speed,,,i still find it hard to believe it makes much difference.....but then some have said the same thing to me and Andy about grippers and HK430....so i guess if it sounds good do it....rick...ps you know you can front mount it without removing the driver...they did it on Heresys,cornwalls...its just got a half circle cut out on the hole, top and bottom just enough to get it through the slot

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DON'T remove the horn from a K-77/-M and reassemble it through the hole. I did it and was lucky (I think, they won't go over 14k). Reassembly through the hole makes it tough to align all the parts.

Since you are building new cabinets, build the new ones with the top open like a Belle or La Scala, enlarge the tweeter hole, and buy the Klipsch Z-brackets made to flush mount the tweeter through a hole in 3/4" plywood. Until then, line the hole with felt.

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On 10/14/2003 10:48:37 PM hurdy_gurdyman wrote:

How does one remove the driver from the horn on a heresy 1? It feels like it might be glued, but not sure.

Dave
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Be carefull, depending on the year the heresy was made, it could be bolted on and not screwed. Make sure there aren't bults holding the driver to the lense. If the lense is plastic (made around 1986) it is more than likly bolted on.

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On 10/16/2003 9:43:00 PM markwittholz wrote:

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On 10/14/2003 10:48:37 PM hurdy_gurdyman wrote:

How does one remove the driver from the horn on a heresy 1? It feels like it might be glued, but not sure.

Dave
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Be carefull, depending on the year the heresy was made, it could be bolted on and not screwed. Make sure there aren't bults holding the driver to the lense. If the lense is plastic (made around 1986) it is more than likly bolted on.

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These are 1975 Heresy's and have the metal horn with AlNiCo driver. This weekend I will try again.

Dave

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Dave----The threads might be galled, the aluminum female threads of the horn combined with the steel male threads of the driver is a recipe for galling. You just need to use a little ***** on the thing.

Once to remove the aluminum screw-on snout from a brand new JBL 2427 driver I had to put the snout in a large bench vice and turn the driver with a 36" pipe-wrench, I needed the 36" wrench. But off it came.

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On 10/17/2003 5:04:25 AM TBrennan wrote:

Dave----The threads might be galled, the aluminum female threads of the horn combined with the steel male threads of the driver is a recipe for galling. You just need to use a little ***** on the thing.

Once to remove the aluminum screw-on snout from a brand new JBL 2427 driver I had to put the snout in a large bench vice and turn the driver with a 36" pipe-wrench, I needed the 36" wrench. But off it came.

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A friend of mine gave me good advice many years ago for fixing things; "If all else fails, use a bigger hammer."

Dave

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Yeah I was thinking this has something to do with the interaction between the steel and the aluminum.

It might also help to put some rubber bands around the driver so you can get a better grip on it.

As a last resort you can try a strap wrench. I see Bob Villa hawking them for Sears.

When you put it back together some light grease or petoleum jelly is probably going to prevent the reoccurance.

Gil

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Judicious application of heat, with a heat gun or even a hair drier, to the horn where it meets the squawker driver might help. Otherwise, I would suggest using a penetrating oil on the threads, clamping the horn carefully in a vice, and using a rubber strap wrench on the driver.

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