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Need LPads for Older Klipsch horns


CWag5

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Hi CWag, and welcome to the forum!

I just modified a type A crossover for use with my 1953/1954 Khorn pair with University SAHF drivers in the mid. I had the 500/5000 crossover, which had far too much midrange level.

First, check your crossover type, and get back to me, but I assume you have the older style crossover. Also check the mid driver and tweeter type, and I'll do my best to help. BTW, I would use a 16 ohm L-pad as a LAST resort.

-DrDave

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Thanks Audio kid! Okay.....first, I replaced my woofers with the ones that the K-Horns are using now because they were blown 15 years ago. I kept the 1950's horns and the 1950's tweeters. I plan on going inside soon but my system is working, I have a party scheduled next week, so not a good time to have parts on the floor.

Now forum, don't bet me up but I put a generic 3Way in about 15 years ago BUT, I appriciate the speakers more now and want them to do it right this time.

So, what crossover should I use and how/where do I get it?

Thank you very much in advance!!

System:

Mitsubishi TV - 73711

Denon AVR5803

Denon DVD2900

Klipsch RC - 7

Klipsch RS - 7 (4)

Klipsch K-Horns (from 1950's)

MK 350 THX II - Subwoffer

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You mean that you changed the crossovers out to a generic 3-way type crossover? You definately have wayyy too much midrange and tweeter output, compared to the woofer. Maybe others can help you locate replacement crossovers, maybe not from the same vintage, but ones that will work correctly and attenuate the midrange and high frequencies to match the woofer output. Al k. is a source for custom crossovers, and crossover parts. I am not sure what his website is, but he frequents the forum a few times a week.

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I didn't change them but they were given to me by my father without one....he had 6 k-horns and gave me two swearing they were the best ever made but needed some work, so I stripped them down, replaced the low drivers, grill cloth, painted them satin black (they look very good BTW) but I didn't have this forum to ask what the crossover should be.... I use to knock down the mid range with an equalizer....

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You have K-33e woofers, and likely University SAHF mids, and either University T-4401 or Klipsch (EV T-35) K-77 tweeter. IMHO, the K-77 is the better of the two. You can build a first order (6 dB/octave) type A crossover or perhaps find one on ebay or here to replace the generic ones you have. PWK liked that one better than higher order; and I have to agree. The type A also has an autoformer to allow midrange/tweeter level adjustment. If you'd like help, feel free to contact me privately.

-Dave

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----------------

On 11/6/2003 8:28:45 PM audio_kid wrote:

You have K-33e woofers, and likely University SAHF mids, and either University T-4401 or Klipsch (EV T-35) K-77 tweeter. IMHO, the K-77 is the better of the two. You can build a first order (6 dB/octave) type A crossover or perhaps find one on ebay or here to replace the generic ones you have. PWK liked that one better than higher order; and I have to agree. The type A also has an autoformer to allow midrange/tweeter level adjustment. If you'd like help, feel free to contact me privately.

-Dave

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Thanks,how can I get a type a crossover? to I go to ebay and ask for a "Type A Crossover"?

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I worked for Klipsch dealers for 25 years... and became the local 'expert'... I've heard many Khorns over the years, with many crossovers, and corresponded with PWK until his death. As for 'bang for the buck', the old type A crossovers can't be beat. If you're technical, you can convert a type AA, B, C, etc into a type A by rewiring and capacitor replacement. And yes, as per '3dzapper', the ALK is another alternative, if cost isn't a factor. They are higher order crossovers. If you check Ebay for used Type A's, just do a search for "Klipsch crossover"... that will get you there.

I do suggest that you check your speakers and determine which drivers you have, as I mentioned in my previous post. Do your Khorns have wood/fiber or cast metal mid (squawker) horns? In short, your effort will be worth it in the long run. Properly setup corner horns can provide a great musical experiance... just check out all the postings here from Klipsch enthusiasts.

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Wow, that's impressive.... I received a response from AL K that the Type A crossovers are $500 for the pair ...plus shipping. (wow) thay must really sound good!. So...I'm currently looking for an alternative, I think my best bet is to open the speakers and tell you exactly what I have inside then we can go from there. It will be about two weeks unless I have a sleepless night.

I really appriciate your help as well as the help of others on this site. Thanks!!!

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Well I receive the L-pads today. Is the ALK crossovers worth $500 a pair? does anyone know what the cost are for the parts? My father could build it for me.... but he's not convinced it would be worth it. He's had about 3 pairs of khorns, built his own crossovers (wound his own coils) and they sound great! I've invited him to this board when he has time.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Audio Kid, I opened up the khorns and for tweeters, I have a t35 in one and a t50 in the other one. The horns are metal. So, since I don't have the ALK crossovers yet, I put in the lpads and cranked down the mids and tweeter and it made a huge difference. Now I need to focus back on the crossover. will the ALK's make a huge difference?

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"will the ALK's make a huge difference?"

In a word, yes, compared to what you have. Al K's networks present a constant impedance to an amplifier and sharper crossover cuts than stock Klipsch networks. Al has the plans and bill of material with suppliers for ALK networks on his web site. Once the parts are in hand building a set should not be hard.

Another recommended tweak is to dampen the squaker horns with Dynamat or rope caulk. This makes a nice difference in the midrange presentation.

If you are searching ebay for crossovers, type AAs will be more common. AAs can be converted to As easily by shorting one of the 2uF caps and eliminating the coil from the tweeter circuit. Replacing the motor caps with good modern poly caps is also a good idea.

To build type As buy a pair of autoformers from Klipsch,a pair of 14ga 2.5mH aircore inductors, a pair of 2uF polycaps, and a pair of 13uf polycaps (Auricaps, Musicaps, etc> I'm using 12uFs in my AAs with no ill effects as 13s are hard to find. You can find the schematic here on the forum if you run a search.

Hope this helps.

Rick

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If cost is a problem . . .

I'll point out that PWK liked the A type very much and ran them without the inductor in the woofer circuit. Therefore there was just the 16 uF and autotransformer in the mid; and the 2 uF in the tweeter.

I've used the primary of a Radio Shack 70 volt line transformer as an auto transformer. The caps can be had at RS too. You'd have to use one of their non polarized electolydics and parallel some other stuff. None the less, cost could be about $25 per channel.

Gil

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CWag,

You should build a pair of crossovers like the ones that should have been in your K-horns using high quality components. Failing that, you should build a pair of Type A or Type AA using those premium components. I love Al's crossovers, but some research should be done on your squawker horn and driver to see if they are the best ones.

There are a couple of designs on the Forum for Type As that have additional tweeter protection if you have powerful amps.

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